Airforce Airforce Texan. Anything immediately wrong with it?

I appreciate the response and the stance. I'm looking to try and maybe do so wild pig or possibly deer hunting with it. Not that that matters a whole lot.
I was just wondering what are the, if any, first mods done by most to this platform?
Are they mostly just cosmetic? Is there functional ones that could increase the overall enjoyment of this platform.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RM.510bigbore
Forget modding the rifle. What kind of compressor, drier, and air tank do you have? Those are air hungry and require topping off after just a few shots. I've got a bone stock Texan in .45. Shot the heck out of it for going on 4 years now. Clean and lube it regularly and make sure the air I feed it is dry. Not a single failure or issue to date. If I were to do a mod maybe one of the aftermarket regulators and a stock as the platform is rather hold sensitive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RM.510bigbore
After you've done fondling your new airgun 😉 , give it a good inspection (for loose screws and such) and clean the barrel.

I like to shoot a string or two over a chronograph to get some baseline data to compare to later.

You want to break in the airgun (I like to shoot at least a 500 count tin) and get familiar with it before making any changes or adjustments. I use cheap ammo for the break in and don't get serious about looking for the best projectile until the gun is settled.

Welcome to PCPs!

Cheers!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RM.510bigbore
After you've done fondling your new airgun 😉 , give it a good inspection (for loose screws and such) and clean the barrel.

I like to shoot a string or two over a chronograph to get some baseline data to compare to later.

You want to break in the airgun (I like to shoot at least a 500 count tin) and get familiar with it before making any changes or adjustments. I use cheap ammo for the break in and don't get serious about looking for the best projectile until the gun is settled.

Welcome to PCPs!

Cheers!
500 that's gonna be a chunk for .457

Is what it is. Thanks for the pointers
 
  • Like
Reactions: RM.510bigbore
Forget modding the rifle. What kind of compressor, drier, and air tank do you have? Those are air hungry and require topping off after just a few shots. I've got a bone stock Texan in .45. Shot the heck out of it for going on 4 years now. Clean and lube it regularly and make sure the air I feed it is dry. Not a single failure or issue to date. If I were to do a mod maybe one of the aftermarket regulators and a stock as the platform is rather hold sensitive.
Thanks for the heads up. Definitely looking into a drier. And probably a new compressor. One I got is only meant for small fills.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IndyDurtdigger
I've owned dozens of AF rifles in many configurations and have modded them into oblivion from regulators to drop down adapters, airrow shooters, you name it. As for the Texan, I've not found anything I 'need'. I had a 457 and sold it to get a carbine of the same caliber as I wanted a shorter package.

Just enjoy it as it is and spend your time/efforts in finding what slug that it prefers at the ranges you intend to use it. I'd considered a hopped up valve in mine, but to what end? It's more than enough for deer and pig as it is and upgrading to the AAO or TX2 valve is just bragging rights for most folks. Just doesnt seem that the juice is worth the squeeze.

I do have an AF gun with a MadDog stock and for a bench gun, I find it to be a good option. Not so much for a carry and shoot gun, but I'm used to the AF platform and the cheesy butt plate doesnt bother me at all. If it's your first PCP, it likely wont bother you either.

If you're dying to spend money on your new toy (not judging... I get it!) then I would recommend going to Accurate Molds or NOE and looking for a mold to cast your own bullets. I've got a cheapie mold that does good enough for mine out to 50 yards, but for my carbine, I prefer NSA's around the 240gr mark and so use them when I want to reach out past 50 yards.
 
Follow up on the above post. I bought a couple weights of NSA slugs but never ended up trying them. I cast and size a 325gr bullet from an RCBS mold, lube them with a spray on silicone lube and found what I needed on the first try. Forget where I have the power wheel set but mine will drop the first two shots right on top of each other then the third down a couple inches as the tank runs low at 100 yards. At 50 yards or less and with lighter projectiles you can squeeze out 4 shots maybe more with a carbon fiber bottle. Remember for plinking .457 round balls work great and are pretty accurate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RM.510bigbore
The upgrades I was looking towards. Were more quality of life kinda stuff. The AAO was more if i felt needed it. Guess I should have mentioned it above. Things like the trigger, stock, that sorta stuff.

Definitely going to look into casting my own slugs. Don't want to go crazy on the weight. Somewhere in the 250-450gr range I'm thinking. I'll know more once I have some time with it.

I'll look into the maddog stock. I'll try it as is first, perhaps it's a fit for me stock.

Thanks everyone for the info and tips

Chris
 
If you don’t already have one, I’d recommend you get a laser that allows elevation and windage adjustments and can be mounted on the frame’s dovetail rail (the barrel, after all, is secured to the frame via bushings and set screws) to guide you in developing the correct hold technique for your Airforce PCP. You don’t need an expensive one—even a Walmart-stocked unit works perfectly. One of the benefits of a rifle-mountable laser is that it can be used as a diagnostic tool, if not as a sighting system. I used to own a Condor and wanted to see the effect of hold pressure, especially lateral pressure, on the rifle’s point of aim. Let me tell you, it didn’t require too much pressure on almost anywhere on the rifle’s frame to see the laser dot move from its original position. Having done that, I was given a headstart and set on the correct path to developing my hold technique for “a rifle”—not just the Condor—and was able to find one to counteract any possible negative pressure that in turn can change the barrel’s aim point.

If you decide to give it a try, once mounted, adjust the laser so that the dot is superimposed on the crosshairs of your scope. As you look through the scope, apply pressure on various parts of the frame to see if the dot moves. Best to conduct the test wherein the dot’s distance is considerable, like 40 yards, to amplify the degree of movement. That should give you an idea of the area(s) to situate your non-firing hand or which type of hold to apply to prevent this problem from getting in the way of accuracy.😉
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: jmohme
If you don’t already have one, I’d recommend you get a laser that allows elevation and windage adjustments and can be mounted on the frame’s dovetail rail (the barrel, after all, is secured to the frame via bushings and set screws) to guide you in developing the correct hold technique for your Airforce PCP. You don’t need an expensive one—even a Walmart-stocked unit works perfectly. One of the benefits of a rifle-mountable laser is that it can be used as a diagnostic tool, if not as a sighting system. I used to own a Condor and wanted to see the effect of hold pressure, especially lateral pressure, on the rifle’s point of aim. Let me tell you, it didn’t require too much pressure on almost anywhere on the rifle’s frame to see the laser dot move from its original position. Having done that, I was given a headstart and set on the correct path to developing my hold technique for “a rifle”—not just the Condor—and was able to find one to counteract any possible negative pressure that in turn can change the barrel’s aim point.

If you decide to give it a try, once mounted, adjust the laser so that the dot is superimposed on the crosshairs of your scope. As you look through the scope, apply pressure on various parts of the frame to see if the dot moves. Best to conduct the test wherein the dot is at a considerable distance, like 40 yards, to amplify the degree of movement. That should give you an idea of which area(s) to situate your non-firing hand or which type of hold to apply to prevent this problem from getting in the way of accuracy.😉
Thanks for the tip.
 
Thanks for the tip.
Should you decide to keep the laser attached:

Use case no. 2: You could use it as a convenient tool to eliminate parallax quickly and easily without setting the rifle on a stable platform while you bob and weave your head to detect any movement of the reticle against the dot.😉 I like this aspect of having lasers mounted on my PCPs as I shoot them offhand and therefore am able to cancel parallax when focusing on my targets while holding my rifles.

Use case no. 3: The laser dot can be used to assess your scope’s tracking abilities (at fixed distances) without, again, setting your rifle on a fixed platform or putting it on a vice. Or, it can be used to determine if your scope is working as it should.👌
 
Last edited: