Air Venturi valve not holding pressure

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Sounds like the O-rings that you are using may be too thick. I recently bought a new valve and the supplied O-ring would not allow the butting surfaces to mate properly. Mine was a metric 18x1.5 valve and the O-ring supplied was 18x3. The correct size should have been around 2.75. I only had one that was 2.5 thick so I used that and it worked fine. It's better to use one slightly under than slightly over if you can't source the correct size. It's very important that the surfaces but together with no gap, no gap no blowout.
 
1500 psi is pretty low pressure so I tend to believe that the O ring is not properly seated. Try to use more silicon grease on the O ring and the seat . Put the O ring on the flanged end of the male thread before screwing in. When the gap is about to close up, peek into the gap from all directions to check if any part of O ring is dragged away from its position because of the screwing action. On my big gold filter, this happens occasionally and I have to redo it to get it right. Hard O rings are needed only for moving parts. Duro 70 should be good for this location
 
AGB, you need to know the size of your O-rings first and then you can either try to source some locally or online. Airgunfans, funny you mentioned the gold filter. I blew out a couple of the green orings (which are way too soft) under normal conditions. Switched to some 90's and not a problem since even after rebuilding the media a few times. I had a similar instance with some breech orings. I kept blowing them out due to not tight enough tolerances, switched to the harder 90's and didn't have a problem after that. Too soft of material in a loose fit can squish (probably not the proper term but) out under pressure.

Jk
 
.....Airgunfans, funny you mentioned the gold filter. I blew out a couple of the green orings (which are way too soft) under normal conditions....

Those green O rings are soft but they can stand 4500 psi with no problem as long as care is exercised to get them seated during installation. I have not blown out any after 1.5 years of use. I believe using harder O rings will help because they do not deform as much so it should be easier to get them seated but they are not a must IMHO. 
 
Since we don't know the fit of the O-rings that AGB is using it's hard to say what the root cause of his failures are. Trying some harder material would be a very cheap test if he can source some of the correct size. Fortunately for me we have a industrial O-ring and gasket company in town so it's always made my O-ring searches simple. The green Chinese O-rings remind me of bubble gum and they normally stretch so that they are hard to keep in place to start with. I'd for sure recommend at least some 70duro Buna for those.

AGB, once your sure of the correct size O-ring and More (https://www.oringsandmore.com/) are a good company to buy from. Hope you find a solution.

Jking


 
You might take a photo of the oring setting on the tank. If you have a set of calipers you could carefully measure the ID of the Oring and the diameter of the cross section and get a good idea of what size it is. You could then either try to find one of harder material or try one with a little thicker CS. I'm assuming the valve screws in fine also so there's probably no issue there.

jking
 
It doesn't matter what hardness is used in this application. If the valve is screwed down properly and the right sized O-ring is installed, it will seal. The soft green ones that are being referred to here are fine for this use. the problem with them is they can only be used once. After that, they will be distorted and like airgunfans says they will not seat properly and pinch slightly and stop the interface butting completely allowing enough gap for the rubber to squeeze out of. From your picture, it is impossible to know whether your threads are metric or imperial. It should be printed on the side with the other specs. If it is metric, use the size I recommended. 18x2.5-2.75. If not, look it up or measure what was supplied and use a slightly smaller cross-section one and tighten it until there is zero gap. The recommended torque is 70 FP but it doesn't need to be that tight. I said it before and I will repeat it now in case you didn't understand. If there is no gap there can be no blowout.