Air Venturi 4500 psi!! Filter questions

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I have this compressor is the water separator that comes factory all you need?

I bought and fix impact mkll and I don’t want to have any issues with corrosion or anything like that.

if there is a aftermarket setup that would be better pls link it below. Thanks for your input. 


 
I think most people who have a compressor understand the necessity of having clean dry air to power really expensive airguns … and not so expensive. H2O can really wreak havoc with o-rings and other parts of your gun in a rather short amount of time. I don't know of too many people who don't take the extra precaution of putting on a separate in line filter between the compressor and the tank … all in all, it's only common sense and a good insurance policy to keep that expensive Impact working properly. Additionally, if you might have some water vapor in the gun right now, the new dry air supplied by the additional use of an inline filter will absorb whatever moisture you might have in the gun. I have a Diablo Dry Air System on mine but there are a lot of folks who have put on more expensive and potentially better air dryers on their compressors. The Diablo is hard to get these days but you can still get the media to put inside it.
 
I have used that same compressor for about half a year and have had no problems with any moisture, that I know of. I manually purge it for a few seconds every 5 minutes or so when filling my 74' CF tank. I would not recommend filling your gun directly from the compressor. Things can always be improved on, but sometimes things are just good as they are.

One disclaimer... I live in Wisconsin and there is some humidity in the summer, however I keep my compressor in my basement where the humidity is kept low. If I had to fill it in my garage during a hot day in July, with the humidity at 99% I would definitely look into some hygroscopic high pressure filter.




 

That is a very good choice for a high pressure filter but that ebay link is a a very overpriced one. If you search on Ebay or Aliexpress, you can buy a gold filter with a repackable dessicant cartridge for $86 shipped from California. It took three days for one be delivered to the east coast. Here's the same one for much less.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32891898253.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.170a19b9QI4Pgz&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_1_10065_10130_10068_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103%2Csearchweb201603_53%2CppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=2a3c9f87-cc4c-4ab8-a28f-3b994b97bbec-0&algo_pvid=2a3c9f87-cc4c-4ab8-a28f-3b994b97bbec&transAbTest=ae803_4

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The filter on the compressor already removes a lot of liquid water but the air coming out is still fully saturated with water vapour and perhaps some water droplets stirred up by the air flow inside the filter. To remove the residual of water, adding a desiccant filter as recommended by other respondents is highly recommended. Suggest to use a quick connector with an integrated check valve at the inlet of the external filter to eliminate unnecessary air loss when purging is done.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PCP-8MM-Male-Quick-Connector-Check-Valve-One-Way-Foster-Stainless-Steel-Fill-Nipple-2-pcs/32884859086.html
 
Hey, all, what about the media that’s in the aluminum block that houses the air bleed screw and where the fill whip is connected to? What type of media goes in there, that does not harm or contaminate the aluminum?

That tiny desiccant chamber gets saturated too fast and becomes a problem as it corrodes. Leave that space empty and add a gold filter instead.
 
Hey, all, what about the media that’s in the aluminum block that houses the air bleed screw and where the fill whip is connected to? What type of media goes in there, that does not harm or contaminate the aluminum?

There has been a recent thread in which the owner put desiccants into that tiny filter and ended up in a small mess : https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/tuxing-compressor-funny-noise/
 
The manual for the A/V manual specifies changing the output air filter every 50 hours. It comes with an extra replacement. According to everything I have read, the molecular seive is not effective unless you have a back pressure regulator on the seive to increase the dwell time of the air as it passes through the filter. I previously had the gold filter set up on my A/V, but just recently changed to the Omega inline filter, but I added the back pressure regulator from my gold setup. I checked the gold setup after a year on the A/V and there was no corrosion in the tub and I did not have a plastic liner. I did have an inch of the Tampax filter on each end of the filter. I think the molecular intake filter sold Pyramid Air is a waste of money. I purchased it before I did any research and found out the seive is not effective without a dwell time for the air. I think you are better off with a fiber filter.
 
Well, after a year the innards of that moisture removal block is sparkling clean, so I’m gonna keep it as is. I don’t know if you alls compressors have an auto purge like the hatsan lightning does, but at average top off times of 12-18 minutes I have my auto purge set to go every 10 minutes so I at least get one good one in. A good amount of water comes out, probably a tablespoon and a half it seems.



In my recent tread on this subforum where I did my annual maintenance, the pics I show of me opening that moisture collector aluminum block up is immediately after a top off, as it’s easier to loosen the hard line connections when the fittings are warm. You can’t see it in the pic very well, but at the very bottom of that canister that holds that media, there is a tiny water drop left right at the exit hole of the bleed purge knob, and the media was moist to the touch. Not drenching wet, just moist. 

Every time I purge out the air after a top off, I don’t open that knob slowly, but instead fast to blow out any moisture collected there at the bottom. Hatsan recommended activated alumina more so than silica gel desiccant if I was able to get it, because it won’t interact with the aluminum when wet. I’ve read the specs on Alumina, and wordage used is it is used a lot in high pressure/high output compressors where moisture is needed to be gone, and also in water filtration systems. I feel whoever designed this knew what they were doing. I’m not a compressor systems engineer, lol, far from it, so I’m gonna keep things the same as designed. This moisture collection block, I feel, is designed mainly to grab the little bit of moisture left that “may” still be in the air. The bulk of the moisture gets trapped at the bottom of that upright gold filter, and it makes sense that the lower pipe heads over to the auto purge, where the majority of the moisture is removed. 

To add, in the year of using this compressor I’ve opened up my Marauder rifle at least 7 times and my PRod at least 4 times, and I have never ever seen any signs of moisture getting in the pressure pipe.