• The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.

Tuning Air Loss at Rest (Hatsan Flash QE in .22)

Jump to latest Follow Reply
9

9Qm3

Member
Jun 12, 2019
83
0
Virginia
Good day all:

I have a Hatsah Flash QE in .22 that recently started exhibiting air loss while at rest. It has not been modified in any way, and the only recent "change" is that I had to let it sit untouched (and at between 100 and 200BAR) for about 6 weeks due to a medical issue.

Upon getting back to it, I noticed that the tank would empty from one day to the next. A closer look yesterday revealed that the tank lost 100BAR over a 3-hour period at room temperature. I also note that I do not notice any sounds that would indicate a leak (as in that of a bicycle tire; at least that's where my mind goes). Additionally, I note that I've not observed anything out of the ordinary when it comes to filling the Flash with air using my MK4 hand pump.

As I mentioned previously, the Flash has not been modified in any way (purchased new; used "as is"), mainly because I'm not comfortable messing with something that works well enough for me as it is. Having said that, however, upon discovering the leak, my first inclination was to manually bleed the tank. In reviewing the paperwork I have that came with the Flash, AND searching online, I cannot confirm the location of that bleed screw.

So I'm at a bit of an impasse.

Firstly, I would like to confirm the location of the bleed valve, which I believe is the slotted screw immediately next to and to the rear of the air gauge. Is that correct?

Secondly, I would be very appreciative of those skilled in dealing with this kind of issue offering their guidance as to how I should proceed in trying to understand and address this loss of pressurized air.

Thank you in advance.
 
Yes your bleed screw is that flat head slot at the gauge. Check for leaks at the bleed screw, gauge and maybe fill port. It's most likely leaking from the air release valve, you might need to go fire it a few times and keep the pressure high to give ptfe seal a chance to reseat.

If that doesn't work and you haven't found the leak try this 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/trouble-finding-air-leak/?referrer=1

Soapy water hack I posted

You can take off your air tube from the gun to make it easier to look for the leak at the air release valve. (YouTube has a few videos of the flash disassembly) If it's still leaking from the air release valve after trying to fire it and it's off the gun sometimes tapping the release valve with a soft mallet will help reseat the valve....fyi do it lightly and it will be loud. If it stops leaking by doing that fill it up to hatsans max recommended fill pressure and let it sit for a while.

You'll find it! It's just part of air gunning. Good luck!
 
Upvote 0
Correct it is not the same, the air release valve is what the hammer hits when you pull the trigger to release the air from the tube when fired.

Here a parts diagram, click on the flash to download it. Part 3304 is the air release valve assembly. 

https://hatsanairgunsusa.com/exploded-product-diagrams/

You can remove your air tube from the flash without draining the tube but if you need to take the tube apart make sure you bleed the air using the bleed screw.

Ps I'm am not responsible for your safety or damage caused to your gun. Do your research! If you cant perform these repairs send it back to hatsan.
 
Upvote 0
Don't disassemble anything until you know for sure it's not anuthing simple such as dust or debris stuck in your fill port check valve or just manometer needs tightening and or just needing to use yellow gas sealing Teflon tape wrapped in the proper thread oientation.

A Disassembly would be a result of valve seal poppet failure or bent valve where you put a rubber banded balloon or condom (clean one of course) over the barrel and another over the end of air cylinder over the fill probe hole and only if barrel balloon fills up with air overnight then disassembly would probably be needed.
 
Upvote 0
@Odoyle:

Thanks for the additional guidance.

So far I've simply opened the bleed screw, draining the reservoir. I've tightened the bleed valve and now am in the process of refilling the reservoir, by hand of course. I figured that such an effort, along with the fill port, would be the least-invasive and easiest things to check. We'll see.

Thanks again.
 
Upvote 0
An update:

After re-seating/re-tightening the "bleed screw," I am seeing a slowing of the leak process. Having said that, I admit that I have not had the reservoir filled up to the level at which i previously experienced the 100BAR drop in three hours. Still, I am hopeful that further tightening of the "bleed screw" will further reduce any leakage, which would be nice.
 
Upvote 0
Actually, I needed to update this post, so now is a good a time as any.

Over the past 48-72 hours, air loss has been almost non-existent. My conclusion is that the bleed screw had somehow started to allow air to escape; not much, but noticeable over numerous hours. I took to unscrewing the bleed screw and then re-tightening. So far it seems to have done the trick.

Thank you to all who contributed.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu