First of all thanks for letting me join. Second HELP, lol. I have searched the forum and cant seem to find the answer. I am brand new to the PCP world. I just ordered my Avenger a few weeks ago with all the accessories to go with it. I am an experienced shooter growing up in the hills of West Virginia, and serving almost 10 years as an Infantryman in the Army. I can not get this gun to print a pattern to save my life. I am shooting at 37 yards, off sandbags. I initially ordered the gun with the Patriot Javelins in 23gr. .218, and the Fx hybrids in 22gr .217, then I ordered NSA slugs in every weight from 24.8gr to 27gr in every size they offer. I have looked at AEAC youtbe video on the tuning and shooting, I have adjusted this thing up and down from the lowest setting to the top, and everything in-between. I took it apart and cleaned it completely, used blue lock tite on all the screws that required it. It will shoot a decent group one minute then the next it is all over the paper, some groups are under a quarter and 37 yards others are over 2.5"-3". I am beginning to think maybe my scope is "wondering" around. I bought a new Athlon Talos from Utah Air when I ordered the gun, using fx no limit rings. Rings are torqued to spec with a dab of blue lock tite. Any and all help is appreciated.
Tuning Air Avenger .22cal help
- Thread starter blacksmith304
- Start date
Try pellets.
JSB or FX 18.13 (if you can find any) shooting @ 850-900 (mine’s shooting 880) should get you the results you want. Athlon scopes are fine.
JSB or FX 18.13 (if you can find any) shooting @ 850-900 (mine’s shooting 880) should get you the results you want. Athlon scopes are fine.
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I agree with Davecole try pellets I’ve got mine shooting jsb 15.89 one hole at 50 yards I’ve never tried slugs.
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Remove the end cap and try it. If it's still shot gunning then at least you know it's not clipping causing it.
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Try Re-Crowning the Barrel too, you will be surprised with the results.... watch the video.
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/the-best-thing-you-can-do-to-your-pcp-as-soon-as-you-get-it/?view=all#post-1006519
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/the-best-thing-you-can-do-to-your-pcp-as-soon-as-you-get-it/?view=all#post-1006519
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OK gents, another question for ya. What torque should I be putting on my mounting bolts? The one in the rear of the trigger guard, and the one on the forearm. Also the 2 little grub screws that go through the barrel band. IDK if some of my issues might be from to much, or too little torque or not. I know that on my Thompson Center Pro hunters they are super picky on the forearm torque. Thanks again.
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I doubt this will help but.....
I have the wood stock version. There is a parts schematic attached as a .pdf on here somewhere, but torque specs are not stated. I have no idea except to say that I snug mine up to what I feel is appropriate for the fastener size. Not too tight, and not too loose. Maybe look up the torque specs for specific thread size fasteners, and use that as a starting point, if you're looking to use a torque wrench. But the spec may be too tight in some cases.
But my real reason for responding was just in case you have an older version rifle. My newer version has small plastic spheres (beads) under the grub screws that come in from the side of the barrel band, so the screw cones do not come in direct contact with the barrel shroud and the air tube. The screws have an actual head, that shoulders/bottoms out on the barrel band. They are not what I call "set screws" (set screws have no shouldered head, have a fully threaded OD, and typically have a cup point, dog point, or cone point)....but it seems most gun people seem to call set screws "grub screws". (I am new to "guns" and have not researched yet to figure out how/why "grub" screws got this name, and are not called set screws.) The plastic bead might be worth exploring, if you don't have the plastic beads and headed screws in yours. It is not a great idea to mar/scratch/damage the outside of the air tube (as can be seen in a tear down video on youtube).
Edit: Air Velocity Sport's teardown video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHhMJxPzwq4
Thread with the schematic (6th post): https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/air-venturi-avenger-parts-diagram/
I have the wood stock version. There is a parts schematic attached as a .pdf on here somewhere, but torque specs are not stated. I have no idea except to say that I snug mine up to what I feel is appropriate for the fastener size. Not too tight, and not too loose. Maybe look up the torque specs for specific thread size fasteners, and use that as a starting point, if you're looking to use a torque wrench. But the spec may be too tight in some cases.
But my real reason for responding was just in case you have an older version rifle. My newer version has small plastic spheres (beads) under the grub screws that come in from the side of the barrel band, so the screw cones do not come in direct contact with the barrel shroud and the air tube. The screws have an actual head, that shoulders/bottoms out on the barrel band. They are not what I call "set screws" (set screws have no shouldered head, have a fully threaded OD, and typically have a cup point, dog point, or cone point)....but it seems most gun people seem to call set screws "grub screws". (I am new to "guns" and have not researched yet to figure out how/why "grub" screws got this name, and are not called set screws.) The plastic bead might be worth exploring, if you don't have the plastic beads and headed screws in yours. It is not a great idea to mar/scratch/damage the outside of the air tube (as can be seen in a tear down video on youtube).
Edit: Air Velocity Sport's teardown video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHhMJxPzwq4
Thread with the schematic (6th post): https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/air-venturi-avenger-parts-diagram/
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