AEAC video - FX Crown Continuum TUNING GUIDE (w/FX Pocket Chrony)

Hi Steve,

Outstanding job. I noticed that the barrel was flexing quite a bit while you were talking as you rested your left arm across the barrel. Did you notice any change in POI with the Crown Continuum?

I also had a heck of a time finding rings high enough for the magazine to clear my scope. What height are the rings you are using?

Not that I've ever been able to detect and I've knocked em' pretty good before. They seem to spring right back. That being said, one could bend them if not careful.
 
Excellent video as always Steve! interesting that you didn't find much POI change, I have found it best to mark the crush nut and liner as I have experienced POI shift of upto 12" at 25 yards by rotating the liner 180 degrees, as long as you reference it it's not a problem of course.

Very interesting take as well on the tuning curves, I have the .22 and would personally only bother using the 700mm with a 25g JSB MONSTER RD to get the power to where it needs to be with those.

I hadn't considered the huge amount of extra shots VS the 380mm just by winding the reg down and taking advantage of the extra velocity gained by the 700.
 
Yes and personally I never touch the rear screw as it is primarily there to seal the hole after drilling the transfer port, I have 5 Crowns and have not needed to remove that screw on any, although I have heard of an instance where very rare manufacturing tolerances at either end have required it to be slacked off due to the brass part being too tight in its factory position.
 
The real downside to the Continuum IMO is that if you go with a 380mm in .22 and have a 600mm or 700mm .30 cal barrel for it as well in the case, you have effectively done yourself out of needing any other airgun EVER!

Totally unacceptable IMO LOL! a man can never have too many guns, or too much alcohol and tobacco!

Crazy thing is.. I can't wait to go fiddle with the tuning some more. Highly addictive, lol
 
The real downside to the Continuum IMO is that if you go with a 380mm in .22 and have a 600mm or 700mm .30 cal barrel for it as well in the case, you have effectively done yourself out of needing any other airgun EVER!

Totally unacceptable IMO LOL! a man can never have too many guns, or too much alcohol and tobacco!

Crazy thing is.. I can't wait to go fiddle with the tuning some more. Highly addictive, lol


You are welcome to tune one of mine Steve, I have three of them already!
 
Steve, 

Great video presentation again!! I'm currently stationed in Bahrain and look forward to watching your videos on a daily basis! LOL! I'm wanting to get into field target when I get back stateside and for us that might have this one as a contender, when you shoot the 50yd groups, could you please tune the velocity down to the allowed 20FPE in HFT and see how it groups at that slow of speed for us? I know .22 isn't the popular choice, but it could do real well with a lighter pellet and be just fine. Also do you know if FX will have a .177 barrel option for this one like they do in the Crown or will the .177 work with this one now?

Thank you,

Keith Rush 
 
Yes and personally I never touch the rear screw as it is primarily there to seal the hole after drilling the transfer port, I have 5 Crowns and have not needed to remove that screw on any, although I have heard of an instance where very rare manufacturing tolerances at either end have required it to be slacked off due to the brass part being too tight in its factory position.


Just wanted to step in and confirm the above statement. The rear top screw is a hole made when manufacturing the block that effectively is just plugged by the screw. As long as it's not over tightened, you'll never need to loosen it to remove the barrels. So with the updated picatinny block Crowns, you don't have to remove your scope to change barrels. Thanks for passing on this correct information Spreay1Mark!