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AeA hp max 357.. work work work..lol

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Cheplicki

Cheplicki

Member
Jan 11, 2019
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MI, United States
www.youtube.com
So I think this is a great little gun for what it is.. but it need work like any other aea gun... it's ok for 3 good shots at the 3600psi when it works right... they made the pop-it for the valve out of steel so without the right amount of preload on the pop-it it has a bad habit of bouncing and dumping a lot of air and sounds like a Simi auto.. so now we taking this gun apart and see what we can do.. 

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@MikeMike

i have the 88gr 359-88-rf-s2 mold im still playing with sizing right now. i just got done barrel polishing. so have some more shooting to do .. i was getting 1 to 2 in groups at 40-50 yards and i get shoot a squirrel at 35 yards but i feel i could get it a little better.. so far after the polish i have only shot pellets after about 20 shots the jsb pellets are one hole at 40 yards.. this weekend ill be testing slugs
 
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Just picked one up but havent had a chance to play with it. Wanting to detune it to around 800fps with JSB pellets and see what I get. Was hoping for a drop in spring replacement if I can find it... if not, coil cutting.
Click to expand...

Yea, I tried to get another custom spring from special order websites but it ended up being over $35 with delivery. Local hardware store had nothing close to it, so I ended up cutting it with a diamond bladed drummel cutting blade. Then stretched it out. Now, it is easier to cock quieter and more accurate.
 
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I think I’m repeating myself but for anyone who is considering clipping their hammer spring:


You can back off the large screw on the back of the gun (that the stock bolts to) and achieve a lower power tune that does not take as much force to cock. If I back it most of the way out, it does not have enough energy to open the valve much at 4000-4500 but does open it fully or near fully below 4000ish



I have barely shot mine - had to send mine back for repair as it sprang a leak. I took the max apart went through it and it seemed like maybe the valve seat was deformed. It’s down a narrow tube but it looked a little oblong. Every other O-ring and part between the bottle and where the air was leaking out was perfectly intact other than that. It was also the one thing I didn’t have the tools to remove or fix because it is pretty simple in there.


Are all of these block type airguns built with these really simple interior mechanisms that are easy to access like this? Not quite as simple as airforce but way less complex than I expected it to be.


 
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One thing I’m curious about. People found it adding some spacers at the end of the spring can increase power a bit without relying as much on a heavier projectile to achieve it. I’m sure I read somewhere that adding hammer weight is a preferable place to start as opposed to changing spring preload but that sounds like too simple a rule of thumb and i am pretty sure it also depends on other factors. I will take the hammer to Ace and see if there are any washers or nuts that might fit. The spring guide will keep them in place. I think Hemris with segments might also function to some degree as an anti-bounce mechanism


one of the things I plan to test when the gun returns is smoothing or polishing some of the edges or surfaces in the air path from the tank to the barrel. It is a simple open pathway and the transfer ports/barrel vents go 360° around the barrel. Perhaps polishing / rounding those transfer ports would do a little for efficiency. .


looking at the “stem” of the tank, there are two holes drilled, one for the fill probe and one for the airway. The airway hole has a typical slotted screw or nut set into one side (it holds a little aperture / valve for air from the fill probe to pass through I believe). That screw is pretty rough and angular and is the first thing air rushing out of the tank is going to hit. Dremel tool should polish that down so that it’s a smoother, more rounded surface or maybe contour it slightly. 


If this seems like nitpicking and a waste of time well i have some family who agree with you! A man can dream though especially while he resets expectations and patiently(?) passes time for a few more weeks while waiting.



 
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Good info, davidsng and MrP... as noted, I just got this the other day and am awaiting a fill probe for it so I can really mess with it. As of now, I've done two test shots and that's been about it. First impressions, looks fun... trigger not as bad as I expected. Loud, but that's of no concern to me. For my purposes, I wanted it just for a play gun.. 40 yard plinking, maybe the occasional chipmunk around my home range. Chippers are tough. I hope this will be enough gun. :)
 
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I have some hex nuts that serve perfectly as hammer weights. Each one adds 4.6 grams and compresses the spring by 6.3 mm.

I here is one magazine through the chronograph with one hammer weight added. I got an extra 10 fpe with this not earlier when shooting 108 gr. NSA .

can not say a lot about accuracy but using a reflex red dot at 10m shooting off hand, accuracy seems good. I will definitely try some anchored shooting because I’m curious how well the mold I selected suits this gun.



another question: I know ultimately the true answer is “it depends” but I’m curious, just more or less, what would a minimum useful velocity be for this type of gun? Match .177 air guns are great shooters shoot at 500 FPS… makes me wonder if I tuned this gun down to the 500’s how many shots I’d get and if the projectiles can stabilize at these speeds. 
 
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