Adding Huma Regulator for PROD - anyone try?

[Senor Ramon]

So much to the chagrin of my checkbook I am keeping my PROD and deciding to throw money at it in the attempt to Hot Rod it -- just a little bit. (Yes I know I will never recoup it).

I ordered a Tom West Wood Stock, ATN X Sight 4K, DonnyFL Tatsu, an additional Magazine, and am looking at a Hill Depinger, and or Huma Regulator, to help destroy more rats under 30 yards. Which leads to my question.

While reading the Huma regulator installation instructions, they offer 2 installation options:

1) installing the regulator with the stock pressure gauge, or 2) without the gauge.

They make it a point to explain that if you install the stock pressure gauge it will never tell you the true pressure but only the Regulator pressure so it is pretty useless (their actual words).

So either way how will I ever know how much air is left in the cyclinder? Has anyone added a regulator to the PROD? How do you gauge the air left in the cylinder?

 

[Archdesigner03]

You will need one of this to know how much air you have left if you install a huma regulator. Too bad it's sold out for a while and hope it will be released in fall as stated.

https://onlinestore.magnumairpower.com/products/fill-adapter-with-gauge-burst-disc

Another way to know how much air is left is to use the gauge on your pump but it's not ideal.

 

[Senor Ramon]

You will need one of this to know how much air you have left if you install a huma regulator. Too bad it's sold out for a while and hope it will be released in spring as stated.

https://onlinestore.magnumairpower.com/products/fill-adapter-with-gauge-burst-disc

Another way to know how much air is left is to use the gauge on your pump but it's not ideal.

That's a rather pricey option.

 

[d3vnull]

You could buy something like this and attach a 1/8 npt gauge to it

https://airtanksplus.com/product/st...uick-disconnect-female-with-1-8-fnpt-adapter/

No idea what it would look like though

 

[Archdesigner03]

It's just the nature of airgun modding. I had plans to mod my prod

That's a rather pricey option.

It's just the nature of airgun modding, it gets expensive real quick. Have you try the bstaley mod? You can get similar results like a regulated gun that costs $10 or less. You get to keep your air gauge to read the air pressure as well. Link below.

Yellow Airgun Forum Archive-Bstaley buffer mod picstory for a P-rod

There seemed to be a fair number of people requesting pictures on how to do the Bstaley buffer mod, so, here's my attempt. Part numbers per the Mara

www.tapatalk.com

 

[SqrlHntr]

Theres no real clean way to do it. Shoot it, chrony and count shots. I have two regulated p-rods and both have the gauge block removed for head space. One tuned up for EFT Pistol gets 10 shots right at 20fpe another low powered for plinking.
The tube in a p-rod is so small that keeping the gauge block eats up valuable head space and shot count will suffer. The block itself can constrict air flow to the valve too. You can use the o-ring mod, it works really well, just know it will be at a slight power level cost. A shorter hammer spring can also reduce bounce. Adding a regulator may perform best if combined with lighter springs. Look into Hill Airgun parts, number 7 valve spring and a lighter hammer spring. In P-rods a simple tp change can make a world of difference too, often just a good tune and some o-rings can get a 30 shot fill with an acceptable spread. Really depends on what you are going for, power, shotcount, etc. I like the o-ring mod and a tp change for typical use over a regulator because it requires no removal of the reg to change the set point, no spring swaps, just some air, pellets, a chrony and some hex wrenches. I only added regulators to really dial in the consistency for competition.

BHB How To by RayK

docs.google.com

 

[Senor Ramon]

Theres no real clean way to do it. Shoot it, chrony and count shots. I have two regulated p-rods and both have the gauge block removed for head space. One tuned up for EFT Pistol gets 10 shots right at 20fpe another low powered for plinking.
The tube in a p-rod is so small that keeping the gauge block eats up valuable head space and shot count will suffer. The block itself can constrict air flow to the valve too. You can use the o-ring mod, it works really well, just know it will be at a slight power level cost. A shorter hammer spring can also reduce bounce. Adding a regulator may perform best if combined with lighter springs. Look into Hill Airgun parts, number 7 valve spring and a lighter hammer spring. In P-rods a simple tp change can make a world of difference too, often just a good tune and some o-rings can get a 30 shot fill with an acceptable spread. Really depends on what you are going for, power, shotcount, etc. I like the o-ring mod and a tp change for typical use over a regulator because it requires no removal of the reg to change the set point, no spring swaps, just some air, pellets, a chrony and some hex wrenches. I only added regulators to really dial in the consistency for competition.

BHB How To by RayK

docs.google.com

Truthfully, when I purchased the gun new from PA, I paid to have it test fired and chronographed. It shot CPHP at 620 FPS Avg. That gave me approximately 12 FPE. Which is not bad. I was hoping to get it up closer to 18 or 20. I would not mind sacrificing some shot counts for that.

I think I may scrap the idea of a regulator. Instead, I will purchase a chrony (which I need anyway) and look into the JSAR Valve change: https://www.jsairrifles.com/P-Rod-SS-Balanced-Valve_p_13.html. I hear it's fantastic. It will add some power and I get to keep my air gauge.

 

[Roachcreek]

You can put a t fitting to re[place the fill nipple, then replace the nipple into the and a gauge on the other side.

Here is one on my Skyhawks, it cures the p-15 blown fill rings and makes it so your not looking down the barrel when reading the p-15 gauge, it should work well on your p-rod.

Regards,

ROACHCREEK

 

[Senor Ramon]

You can put a t fitting to re[place the fill nipple, then replace the nipple into the and a gauge on the other side.

Here is one on my Skyhawks, it cures the p-15 blown fill rings and makes it so your not looking down the barrel when reading the p-15 gauge, it should work well on your p-rod.

Regards,

ROACHCREEK

View attachment 283547

View attachment 283548

View attachment 283549

View attachment 283550

Thank you. People tend to think it's not worth the cost for me to do, and instead just do the Bstaley mod. So I am having second thoughts - again.

 

[Archdesigner03]

Thank you. People tend to think it's not worth the cost for me to do, and instead just do the Bstaley mod. So I am having second thoughts - again.

At the end of the day, do what makes you happy...!

 

[Roachcreek]

I have used the B-Staley in mine for years.

RC

 

[Vetmx]

I lived without a gauge for years with my Weerod after I put a Huma in it. Tuned it for 3 mags so not having a gauge was no big deal. What finally drove me nuts was the chronic slow leak the gun had after the Huma install. It finally drove me to install a pressure gauge. I faced the valve and replaced orings and poppet but I still have a super slow leak. If you want big power, a reg isn’t going to get you there. It’s a Prod. Your wheelhouse is 600-750fps with or without a reg shooting 14.3’s.

 

[Vetmx]

I would like to add that I had a SS valve in my gun for a year or so before I put a reg in it. Just got tired of the tiny air cylinder bell curve blues. I never went for the 800fps stuff with my gun. I have a Leshiy that will do that in its sleep. I believe right now with the reg, I have the gun set at 730fps with 14.3’s for 2 or 3 mags. Shot string flat as a pancake. I did do some mods when I installed the reg. Porting to let it breath and a SSG for efficiency.

 

[Roachcreek]

I see that there are at least 2 different manufactures making P-rod look-a-likes that do the same thing as my $1K modded P-rod.

The Karl np series and the newest is the Umerex version for $270.00. They come well equipped with stocks, side levers and the Umerex adds a reg and ldc to boot.

P-rod ?, no, I wouldn’t do that again.

Roachcreek

 

[Senor Ramon]

I lived without a gauge for years with my Weerod after I put a Huma in it. Tuned it for 3 mags so not having a gauge was no big deal. What finally drove me nuts was the chronic slow leak the gun had after the Huma install. It finally drove me to install a pressure gauge. I faced the valve and replaced orings and poppet but I still have a super slow leak. If you want big power, a reg isn’t going to get you there. It’s a Prod. Your wheelhouse is 600-750fps with or without a reg shooting 14.3’s.

View attachment 283857

I realize it will never be a powerhouse. That is not my intention. I just want a flat shot curve. For power I own an AF Talon in 25 which I love to death. I use this under 30 yards to pest. I have it set similar to yours with a custom stock from Tom West, DonnyFL Tatsu, Westhunter FFP (soon to be fitted with an ATN X sight 4K pro). I do not own a Chrony but had it on a Chrony when purchased shooting Avg 620 FPS with CPHP 14.3. I would be happy with 685 - 700 FPS with 2 mags. So should I go regulated, Bstaley, or JSAR Blanaced Valve? P.S. I am about to give up street riding on my super tenere 1200 and buy a dual sport, the self driving cars all want to kill me.

 

[Vetmx]

Yes, things are getting sketchy for bikers with motorists addicted to their phones also. I have to make evasive maneuvers once a week on my street bike. I don’t know what to tell you about your gun. The only thing I can tell you and I’ve said it a hundred times over the years is if you just stick a reg in an unregulated gun, all you have is an unregulated gun with a reg in it. If you want a regulated gun, you have to do all the appropriate mods to make it a regulated gun. Personally I wasn’t overly impressed with my SS valve. I would have liked to try it in something with more barrel length and air volume like a Mrod or even a Disco. You might be satisfied with the Bstaley bandage. I never tried it because I prefer to fix things mechanically.

 

[Roachcreek]

I have a much modded p-rod, I have hundreds of dollars into mods, but no regulator yet.

However I would not do it again…

There are better and far less expensive options that compete with a fully modded P-rod.

Available now is the Karl np-3, it is set up as a carbine, is a sidekever, AR type stock, has a larger air capacity and is shooting in the 880 fps range in 22 and is available in 177 and 25 for $400, about the cost of a stock p-rod.

Another option available this Kate fall is the Umerex Notos, another sidelever carbine, regulated, ar type stock, silencer and a long piccanity rail, 11 inch barrel and shoots in the 700 range for 21 regulated shots. It will retail under $280.00.

Far cheaper and better options. You do not get that wonderful Benjamin warrantee, but that will go out the window with your first mod. My p-rod was a pos from PA, I fixed it myself but should have returned it.

Regards,

Roachcreek

 

[bigmike]

All I did to mine which took about 10 minutes was change the transfer port from the stock .081 to one that is .110. Shoots right at 22fpe with 18.13 pellets.

 

[Senor Ramon]

All I did to mine which took about 10 minutes was change the transfer port from the stock .081 to one that is .110. Shoots right at 22fpe with 18.13 pellets.View attachment 284770

Mike,

I'm not really looking for a huge gain in power. I like shooting the 14.3, 15.89 grain pellets at 620 ish. Just wish I could bump it up in power to 650 - 675, and add some more consistency. Get a flatter shot curve. Nice PROD set up

 

[Ezana4CE]

I would like to add that I had a SS valve in my gun for a year or so before I put a reg in it. Just got tired of the tiny air cylinder bell curve blues. I never went for the 800fps stuff with my gun. I have a Leshiy that will do that in its sleep. I believe right now with the reg, I have the gun set at 730fps with 14.3’s for 2 or 3 mags. Shot string flat as a pancake. I did do some mods when I installed the reg. Porting to let it breath and a SSG for efficiency.

@Vetmx What’s an SS valve? What does SSG mean?