Joe awhile back I brought a Hawke Airmax 4*12*42 Scope. After a while of living on top of my HW 77 the poi started to shift. Checked all the usual stuff screws etc but after each zeroing in the poi would shift. I put the Hawke on my 22 Trail as the gas ram in this rifle is much lower in power compaired to the standard NP rams and I thought this mightn’t effect the poi as much but after a few shots the same thing happened.
I returned the scope from where I bought it for repair or replacement. A week or so later a gentleman from the shop identifying himself as the “long term scope tester” for this shop, a Hawke representative and an independent witness all agreed that after bashing and turning the turrets and again the emphasis of more bashing of the scope and useing the Hawke representatives scope tester nothing was wrong with my scope. He was quite adamant about this and went as far as enquiriing about my shooting ability. The funny thing is that I told him that after removing the Hawke from my 77 I fitted a cheap 4*32 UTG that after zeroing held and is still holding zero. He still said there was nothing wrong with the scope and that it was either the rifle or me.
I know this is a bit long winded but my question is. Without securing the scope to a rail like you did in your videos how can you tell if the scope is holding zero after bashing it. I don’t know what type of scope tester they had but it seems to me that you need to secure the scope to find movement or not. Any light on this would be greatly appreciated.
Gary
I returned the scope from where I bought it for repair or replacement. A week or so later a gentleman from the shop identifying himself as the “long term scope tester” for this shop, a Hawke representative and an independent witness all agreed that after bashing and turning the turrets and again the emphasis of more bashing of the scope and useing the Hawke representatives scope tester nothing was wrong with my scope. He was quite adamant about this and went as far as enquiriing about my shooting ability. The funny thing is that I told him that after removing the Hawke from my 77 I fitted a cheap 4*32 UTG that after zeroing held and is still holding zero. He still said there was nothing wrong with the scope and that it was either the rifle or me.
I know this is a bit long winded but my question is. Without securing the scope to a rail like you did in your videos how can you tell if the scope is holding zero after bashing it. I don’t know what type of scope tester they had but it seems to me that you need to secure the scope to find movement or not. Any light on this would be greatly appreciated.
Gary