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A Good (I think) description and detailed instruction on how to zero the Pard
- Thread starter Jim81
- Start date
Sorry I just tried to open it and it wouldn't open. So I'll try it this way.
Maybe I am dense but I have had problems understanding & getting my my Pard 008 finely adjusted. I can follow how to adjust the reticle per the manual but I cannot get it SPOT on where the POI is wanted. It might be 1/8” low, high, right, or left of where it needs to be. At 25yds that could mean missing a tiny target like a sparrow.
I am using .22 JSB Hades and I use Splatter burst targets. At 25 yards I want to be able to choose intersecting lines on the Splatterburst targets and hit it smack on the chosen intersection. Most often when using the suggested reticle adjustment procedure the POI would be a tiny bit off. With a ‘normal’ scope one can reach up and turn the elevation or windage turrets a couple of clicks and make minor changes to get things precisely on the intersecting lines. HOW do you do that with the Pard?
Mine is not the rangefinder model by choice. However both Pards are operationally similar. I use the rangefinder model instructions as I haven’t found them just for the standard 008. I sat down with the scope, the manual, and mounted it chair height on a BogPod tripod. That’s about as close as you can get a tripod steady as a bench rest.
To simplify the process the buttons on the scope, from front to back are button #1, button #2, button #3, and button #4. For adjusting the movement (just the movement) of the reticle one only needs to understand buttons 1 and 3. The other buttons will be used for other things in the process but have nothing to do with actually changing the axis location on the reticle.
The Pard manual doesn’t describe the reticle movement either as elevation or as windage. They use “X” and “Y”. Forgetting my high school math I relearned that the X axis is windage, left or right and Y axis is elevation, up and down. You have to know that if you want to make small accurate adjustments to the Pard reticle.
Buttons #1 & #3 adjusts the X axis windage . Button #1 moves it to the right. Button #3 moves it to the left.
Button #1 and #3 ALSO adjust the Y axis Elevation. Button #1 moves the reticle up and button #3 moves the reticle down.
Hey wait a minute…how cam the same button do both up and down and right and left. Here’s a nonnutritive part of the adjustment I didn’t see anywhere. With the ATN and the circular rocker device it’s easy to know how to move the direction you want. On the Pard at the bottom of the screen, when in menu reticle adjustment, where you have to go to do the reticle adjustment, there are blue highlighted choices one must select on the bottom of the screen. The first one from left to right is the particular memory bank you choose to save you adjustment to. They are A, B, C, D, & E. When you later “save and exit” whatever adjustment you make will be recalled in the memory bank alpha you chose when adjusting that reticle. Nice for recalling previous adjustments made when switching the scope to a different rifle, using different types of ammunition, or different Powel level settings for the same rifle.
We are going to stay in the middle and choose C. My mnemonic foe C is I think of the C4 explosive and it’s the high power setting for my Pulsar. The next two selection options highlighted in blue are for X and Y. Those are not changeable to other alphas but understand…if you want to change the windage you must have the X highlighted. You cannot change the elevation when the X is highlighted and conversely. Button #1 will move the X-windage right and button 3 will move the windage left.
If I now need to adjust the elevation part of the reticle. I must move the highlighted menu choice from the X to the Y. After doing that I can now adjust the vertical part of the reticle. Button 1 now moves the reticle elevation up and button 3 will move the elevation down.
You can then finish the option choices on the bottom of reticle style, reticle color, and exit and save.
But “Jim” you say. What is the value of the numbers shown in the X&Y axe’s.? I can tell you that in the X axis (that’s right or left) a higher number moves it right and a lower number moves it left. Button 1 is higher number button 3 is lower number. On the Y axis button, elevation, button 1, a higher number value raises the elevation part of the reticle and button 3 with a lower value moves the elevation down.
On a ‘regular’ scope we know so many clicks equals so many inches movement at so many yards. Not so on the Pard. The manual says that at 300 is center screen, I haven’t played with that so I don’t know what is meant by that. By experimenting I have found that my Pulsar set on high power shooting .25 JSB Hades at 25 yds. afive number adjustment moves the Poi about 1/8 of an inch. Your caliber, power, choice of pellet, length of barrel, velocity etc, will determine the value change on an axis to move the POI a desired distance. You get to figure that out.
If I would have had this information when I got my Pard things would have been much easier. I had the ATN and now the Pard. The ATN didn’t work for me. Picture me inside of a barn with a Benjamin Woods Walker with an ATN sitting on top. The problem was keeping it on the top. In that type application the Pard works better for me.
Summary:
The X or Y on the bottom of the reticle adjustment screen must be highlighted to adjust that particular Axis.
The X axis is left or right – Windage
Button 1 moves right – Button 3 Moves left
The Y axis is –Up or down – Elevation
Button 1 is up and button 3 is down.
Then choose reticle style, color, then save and exit.
That will be saved to to A,B,C,D,or E memory banks you initially chose as the first highlighted area.
You can now take a different rifle months later and remembering you zeroed and saved those adjustments in memory location bank B, select it then save and exit every parameter you adjusted then is now stored in the PARD and will be recalled and your zero should still be on.
Maybe I am dense but I have had problems understanding & getting my my Pard 008 finely adjusted. I can follow how to adjust the reticle per the manual but I cannot get it SPOT on where the POI is wanted. It might be 1/8” low, high, right, or left of where it needs to be. At 25yds that could mean missing a tiny target like a sparrow.
I am using .22 JSB Hades and I use Splatter burst targets. At 25 yards I want to be able to choose intersecting lines on the Splatterburst targets and hit it smack on the chosen intersection. Most often when using the suggested reticle adjustment procedure the POI would be a tiny bit off. With a ‘normal’ scope one can reach up and turn the elevation or windage turrets a couple of clicks and make minor changes to get things precisely on the intersecting lines. HOW do you do that with the Pard?
Mine is not the rangefinder model by choice. However both Pards are operationally similar. I use the rangefinder model instructions as I haven’t found them just for the standard 008. I sat down with the scope, the manual, and mounted it chair height on a BogPod tripod. That’s about as close as you can get a tripod steady as a bench rest.
To simplify the process the buttons on the scope, from front to back are button #1, button #2, button #3, and button #4. For adjusting the movement (just the movement) of the reticle one only needs to understand buttons 1 and 3. The other buttons will be used for other things in the process but have nothing to do with actually changing the axis location on the reticle.
The Pard manual doesn’t describe the reticle movement either as elevation or as windage. They use “X” and “Y”. Forgetting my high school math I relearned that the X axis is windage, left or right and Y axis is elevation, up and down. You have to know that if you want to make small accurate adjustments to the Pard reticle.
Buttons #1 & #3 adjusts the X axis windage . Button #1 moves it to the right. Button #3 moves it to the left.
Button #1 and #3 ALSO adjust the Y axis Elevation. Button #1 moves the reticle up and button #3 moves the reticle down.
Hey wait a minute…how cam the same button do both up and down and right and left. Here’s a nonnutritive part of the adjustment I didn’t see anywhere. With the ATN and the circular rocker device it’s easy to know how to move the direction you want. On the Pard at the bottom of the screen, when in menu reticle adjustment, where you have to go to do the reticle adjustment, there are blue highlighted choices one must select on the bottom of the screen. The first one from left to right is the particular memory bank you choose to save you adjustment to. They are A, B, C, D, & E. When you later “save and exit” whatever adjustment you make will be recalled in the memory bank alpha you chose when adjusting that reticle. Nice for recalling previous adjustments made when switching the scope to a different rifle, using different types of ammunition, or different Powel level settings for the same rifle.
We are going to stay in the middle and choose C. My mnemonic foe C is I think of the C4 explosive and it’s the high power setting for my Pulsar. The next two selection options highlighted in blue are for X and Y. Those are not changeable to other alphas but understand…if you want to change the windage you must have the X highlighted. You cannot change the elevation when the X is highlighted and conversely. Button #1 will move the X-windage right and button 3 will move the windage left.
If I now need to adjust the elevation part of the reticle. I must move the highlighted menu choice from the X to the Y. After doing that I can now adjust the vertical part of the reticle. Button 1 now moves the reticle elevation up and button 3 will move the elevation down.
You can then finish the option choices on the bottom of reticle style, reticle color, and exit and save.
But “Jim” you say. What is the value of the numbers shown in the X&Y axe’s.? I can tell you that in the X axis (that’s right or left) a higher number moves it right and a lower number moves it left. Button 1 is higher number button 3 is lower number. On the Y axis button, elevation, button 1, a higher number value raises the elevation part of the reticle and button 3 with a lower value moves the elevation down.
On a ‘regular’ scope we know so many clicks equals so many inches movement at so many yards. Not so on the Pard. The manual says that at 300 is center screen, I haven’t played with that so I don’t know what is meant by that. By experimenting I have found that my Pulsar set on high power shooting .25 JSB Hades at 25 yds. afive number adjustment moves the Poi about 1/8 of an inch. Your caliber, power, choice of pellet, length of barrel, velocity etc, will determine the value change on an axis to move the POI a desired distance. You get to figure that out.
If I would have had this information when I got my Pard things would have been much easier. I had the ATN and now the Pard. The ATN didn’t work for me. Picture me inside of a barn with a Benjamin Woods Walker with an ATN sitting on top. The problem was keeping it on the top. In that type application the Pard works better for me.
Summary:
The X or Y on the bottom of the reticle adjustment screen must be highlighted to adjust that particular Axis.
The X axis is left or right – Windage
Button 1 moves right – Button 3 Moves left
The Y axis is –Up or down – Elevation
Button 1 is up and button 3 is down.
Then choose reticle style, color, then save and exit.
That will be saved to to A,B,C,D,or E memory banks you initially chose as the first highlighted area.
You can now take a different rifle months later and remembering you zeroed and saved those adjustments in memory location bank B, select it then save and exit every parameter you adjusted then is now stored in the PARD and will be recalled and your zero should still be on.
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RussDouglas222, YT channel, he has a around 20 videos on two playlists focusing (no pun) on the Pard brand of night vision,
good luck.
good luck.
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