3D printer recommendations requested

[BackStop]

I have no idea where to start with this, but would like recommendations for a 3D printer. At first, I want to make moderators and adapters for the 2 working airguns I have, but I don't want to be limited. I am sure once I have a 3D printer, I will find many more things to make/"print". If I live long enough, who knows what I might want to try. (smile)

Price is not necessarily an object (anymore), but I don't want to spend more than necessary to have a good 3D printer. Yeah, I know... (chuckle)

Anyway, since this is the ONLY forum I am active on, I thought I would ask. (smile)

Thanks!

Kerry

 

[MrP]

I think your budget is the first important piece of information because you can spend as much as you want really. I’ve only worked with a printer on the lower end of the price range. I have a sovol sv 01 and it has worked perfectly.

 

[BackStop]

I think your budget is the first important piece of information because you can spend as much as you want really. I’ve only worked with a printer on the lower end of the price range. I have a sovol sv 01 and it has worked perfectly.

Thank you for the reply. Yes, I understand the old adage that you get what you pay for, but I don't want to put a limit on the suggestions I might get at this point. And... yes, there will be a limit to what I will spend, but for now, I would like to see all recommendations and especially the whys for those recommendations including the pluses and minuses.

What things do you print with your 3D printer and what other valuable info can you give me? Like differences in printing media, the importance of setup, leveling, ambient temperature, etc? I really want to learn as much as I can before I buy a printer.

Again, thank you very much for your reply. It is very much appreciated!

All my best!

Kerry

 

[GeneT]

I have several 3D printers. The best of the bunch is the Bambu X1C - over $1000 but it's truly "turn-key". You don't have to learn much (other than the software, which is pretty easy) and it just prints perfect prints. All leveling and parameter adjustments are automatic, so you don't have to fuss with it. It will handle just about any material you want to throw at it: PETG, PLA, ASA/ABS, Nylon etc. The manufacturer says no TPU, but there are lots of reports that it works fine with it. (TPU is like printable rubber if you're not already familiar). Oh, and it's way faster than most. It has a fairly large print bed, but it's not as big as some, and that's probably its biggest limitation.

At around $500 (I'm not up on current prices, these things get cheaper all the time) the Anycubic Kobra Max has a huge print bed and works pretty well right out of the box. Bed leveling is completely automatic - so that's one nuisance off your plate. It's not nearly as fast as the Bambu, but it's faster than the Ender series. Prints PLA just fine. You'd need to put a box over it, or build an enclosure to print ASA/ABS.

Starting under $200 the Creality Ender 3 series is probably the most popular 3D printer going (not the best, just the most popular - probably due to the low entry price). These used to be kits, but now they come pretty much assembled and the nicer trim packages (Ender3 V2 Neo is an example) have a lot of the convenience features like removable magnetic plate and auto bed leveling (ABL). ABL is a bit different on the Ender - it's kind of manual-automatic. Works best if you dial it all in manually, then you can use the ABL going forward. Relying on the ABL alone may not work depending on how out of whack the bed is. Very small work envelope, slow as molasses, would also need an enclosure to print most anything other than PLA. BUT, it works. And if you're willing to learn and fuss with it, it works pretty darn well.

I was also going to mention that the real value of a 3D printer can't be realized until you have, and can use, some kind of 3D modeling software. There are a lot of available designs you can print, but eventually you'll want or need to make something of your own design. If you don't grok 3D modeling, start now, there's a learning curve. Popular packages are Fusion3D and FreeCAD (both free) and Alibre and Solidworks (paid). There are others, they're just not coming to mind right now. I use Alibre Professional, but if you're just starting out I'd look at the free software or Alibre Atom. Solidworks is very expensive and not really justified unless you have a good business reason to own it.

HTH,

GsT

 

[BackStop]

I have several 3D printers. The best of the bunch is the Bambu X1C - over $1000 but it's truly "turn-key". You don't have to learn much (other than the software, which is pretty easy) and it just prints perfect prints. All leveling and parameter adjustments are automatic, so you don't have to fuss with it. It will handle just about any material you want to throw at it: PETG, PLA, ASA/ABS, Nylon etc. The manufacturer says no TPU, but there are lots of reports that it works fine with it. (TPU is like printable rubber if you're not already familiar). Oh, and it's way faster than most. It has a fairly large print bed, but it's not as big as some, and that's probably its biggest limitation.

At around $500 (I'm not up on current prices, these things get cheaper all the time) the Anycubic Kobra Max has a huge print bed and works pretty well right out of the box. Bed leveling is completely automatic - so that's one nuisance off your plate. It's not nearly as fast as the Bambu, but it's faster than the Ender series. Prints PLA just fine. You'd need to put a box over it, or build an enclosure to print ASA/ABS.

Starting under $200 the Creality Ender 3 series is probably the most popular 3D printer going (not the best, just the most popular - probably due to the low entry price). These used to be kits, but now they come pretty much assembled and the nicer trim packages (Ender3 V2 Neo is an example) have a lot of the convenience features like removable magnetic plate and auto bed leveling (ABL). ABL is a bit different on the Ender - it's kind of manual-automatic. Works best if you dial it all in manually, then you can use the ABL going forward. Relying on the ABL alone may not work depending on how out of whack the bed is. Very small work envelope, slow as molasses, would also need an enclosure to print most anything other than PLA. BUT, it works. And if you're willing to learn and fuss with it, it works pretty darn well.

I was also going to mention that the real value of a 3D printer can't be realized until you have, and can use, some kind of 3D modeling software. There are a lot of available designs you can print, but eventually you'll want or need to make something of your own design. If you don't grok 3D modeling, start now, there's a learning curve. Popular packages are Fusion3D and FreeCAD (both free) and Alibre and Solidworks (paid). There are others, they're just not coming to mind right now. I use Alibre Professional, but if you're just starting out I'd look at the free software or Alibre Atom. Solidworks is very expensive and not really justified unless you have a good business reason to own it.

HTH,

GsT

Thank you! This gives me a good starting point for research as I go forward. I have a LOT to learn before I dive in and buy a 3D printer. (smile)

All my best!

Kerry

 

[Chris_K]

I just started 3D printing over the holidays. It's not as easy as YouTube makes it look. There are tons of 3D models available for free, but not all of them are designed to print well. It took me about a roll of filament to pick up on what I needed to tweak to make prints work well for different materials, and how to spot a good design from a bad design.

PLA is really easy to print, but it can be brittle and sometimes not strong. PETG is stronger but allows some flex (it'll bend a bit before it breaks). Those two are probably what you'll want to print with because the nylons gas off and you'd need to do some ventilation for health.

For a printer I went the Prusa route, buying a MK4 kit from them, at the time the kit was $799 plus $50 to ship. The kit was $300 less than a fully built printer but it took me the better part of 3 days to assemble. They are out of the Czech Republic but they now own a company out of Delaware (Printed Solid) so you can order from the U.S. as an option (their list prices are higher than Prusa, but they already paid the import duty fees and overseas shipping). They use a lot of open source design so in the long run they should be easy to keep running because you are not bound to use Prusa for parts.

You need a computer to be able to run a slicing program. The slicing program basically translates the 3D model into machine language the printer reads. Most slicing programs are free (and based on Prusa Slicer because it's open source.

For CAD/modeling, TinkerCAD is free and easy but has its limitations. Fusion 360 has a hobby use license that basically lets you use most of it for free and has a lot of capability. I'm still learning it, but man oh man, my old PC is really straining with it, and I learned drafting with pencils..... Once I get this modeling stuff down it'll make the printer worth it.

And for the filament, you can buy from Amazon or 3D supply houses, but it's like anything else, you need to try them out and figure out what works for your setup. One brand may print great in one color, and totally fail in another. You may need to tweak temperatures, speeds, etc. Like I said, it ain't as easy as it looks, at least it's not for me! Figure $15-$30 for a 1kg spool. And depending on the filament you may need to spring for a filament dryer (I had to drop $50 on one to dry out PETG which tends to absorb moisture).

Some food for thought, hope it helps. Honestly, for just printing stuff you download off of Printables and Thingverse I don't think 3D printers are worth it and that you're better off having a buddy or an online printing vendor do them for you.

 

[BackStop]

@Chris-K

Thank you! Sounds like I would have to get a new computer as well, since I am running on a true dinosaur.

Thanks again for the info and advice!

All my best!

Kerry

 

[bigHUN]

Interestingly whenever people start talking 3d printing, all the focus goes to FDM category.
I have been designing mechanical parts for 3d printers at work for over 15 years, and I learned what 3d printers can do pros and cons.
For having my own I am on my second SLA LCD, printing from resins.
Dimensional much tighter tolerances, cosmetically more pleasing surface finish, the materials I am printing are hard tough and machinable (mill, lathe, tap).
I was tinkering to get one larger table FDM for larger flat parts, to finish the ceiling airduct covers in my basement

 

[Chris_K]

I guess a good analogy could be that FDM printers are more like springers and pumpers, and SLA printers are more like PCPs.

 

[GeneT]

I'd di

I guess a good analogy could be that FDM printers are more like springers and pumpers, and SLA printers are more like PCPs.

I don't really agree with that analogy. They're really separate, with quite different advantages and disadvantages. SLA is messy, but definitely more capable of reproducing fine detail. SLA printers like to be used all the time, they don't 'sit' well. An FDM printer can sit for three months unattended and still be ready to print. An FDM printer can print multiple colors and multiple materials in a single print, which is not possible with SLA. Prints requiring toughness are universally done with FDM, though SLA has made some big strides in the last couple of years. There's a much broader range of printable materials for FDM as well. SLA doesn't require support material, and can conceivably print some things that aren't even possible with FDM - but examples of such elude me. FDM generally has a larger work envelope, particularly if you consider "per dollar spent". It's just a trade off any way you slice it.

I'm not saying one is better than the other - at least until we're talking about a specific print - but I think FDM is the more universally usable, and the best place to start. An SLA printer might make a good companion printer if you find yourself in need of its specific capabilities (chiefly fine detail). I'd like to add an SLA to my stable at some point, but I find the mess offputting and I do go for some extended periods without using my printers (or at least some of my printers go extended periods without use).

GsT

 

[bigHUN]

I am printing for myself alone, the ideas coming in waves, sometimes my printer was just sitting in a dark for several months. I want to make it run overnight I just "rake" the resin in a vat with a spatula to mix the pigments... ready to go in minutes.
I have a heated tent for the printer and digital Temp/humidity controls also big 4" drum carbon filters (wife complained in the beginning for odor so that was a unlimited budget project).
Having both the SLA and FDM would be a best for all can do. SLA for precision and FDM for big flats or interior structural parts that are no so much visible. Sorry I could not skip mentioning the cosmetics.

 

[Ezana4CE]

@BackStop In the event that you’ve seen this already I still want to link the two threads. Seems like some good recommendations are contained within the following thread

3d printing parts?

hey fellas. are any of you guys 3d printing parts? if so what software are you using to 3d model? I have a decent amount of knowledge on 3d design and printing (not to brag but I was team co-captain of a worldwide robotics competition team 🤓) I recently moved over to Mac and now I have no idea...

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