Considering a couple scopes that have a 25 yard parallax. However, I do some pesting around the house at 10-20 yards. Will a scope with a 25 yard minimum parallax be an issue?
25 Yard Parallax and Sub 20 Yard Shooting?
- Thread starter txaggie929
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With zoom scopes I have found when at lower magnification it’s not much of a problem but at higher it could be a problem. It also varies by scope.
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I think it comes down to a few different factors. My NightForce SHV 5-20 has 25y min parallax. At 10-12y, the parallax translates to about 1.5" to 2" of variability for POA at minimum magnification. I have spent enough time with this scope to find the center within 1/4", at targets under 25y.
With all of that said, humane kills are going to come down to the shooter, the caliber and ammo that you're using.
With all of that said, humane kills are going to come down to the shooter, the caliber and ammo that you're using.
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If you back up to the limit of the eye relief, when a halo begins to form around your sight picture, you are well centered and parallax error is effectively eliminated.
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Reading this I’m not sure the fellows question has been answered. I am of the opinion that a scope that does not parallax to the range you are intending to use it is a poor choice.
Certainly you can work around it but I’m not happy doing so.
If I was buying I certainly would not one not buy unless it focused to 10 m or less
Certainly you can work around it but I’m not happy doing so.
If I was buying I certainly would not one not buy unless it focused to 10 m or less
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I remember way back in the day when there was no such thing as AO scopes, and accuracy wasn’t a problem irrespective of the distance. But in saying that the introduction of AO on scopes was a good thing and recommended by most accomplished airgun shooters.
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I don't think parralax is as much problem as realizing the over hold to be on target needed for close shots. I shoot the 17HMR with normal setting at 80-90 yards and 14x and shoot 10yard targets without reset because of timing, how long the target will set still. It's a blurry target but with a hold over from 1/2" to 2" I don't miss much. Now with the Crown same thing, except my zero is 50 rather than 100 yards.
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When target distance is significantly less than the parallax setting, and you turn down the magnification on a high power scope, parallax error is often at its worst. Even when the clarity looks OK.
Try it. Turn down a high power scope to the lowest magnification. Put a target at 10yds but set your parallax wheel at 25yds. If you bob your head while viewing the target, you'll often see significant parallax error.
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The parallax “error” only becomes one if your head position is inconsistent.
Furthermore, parallaxed at 25 and target at 10 means that the holdover (most likely hold under in this case) has a -MUCH- greater influence than the crosshair being not exactly in plane...
The way I see it, it’s of course not optimal, but not really much of a problem if you can’t or won’t spend the money on a better scope.
Furthermore, parallaxed at 25 and target at 10 means that the holdover (most likely hold under in this case) has a -MUCH- greater influence than the crosshair being not exactly in plane...
The way I see it, it’s of course not optimal, but not really much of a problem if you can’t or won’t spend the money on a better scope.
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MartinT.....I'm considering Bushnell Forge or possibly a Athlon Ares 4.5-27, and both of them are 25 yard parallax. Just don't want to piss away $600-900 and have something that will just not work.
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Think if I had that budget I would go to the right scope for the right job. Might stat a new thread with, I have $600 plus to spend on the right scope what would you purchase.
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I have a 1-8x, 35 yd parallax adjusted scope on a HW90...as long as I stay within ranges near that, it's ok...beyond that...not so good...
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"most likely hold under in this case" - Not true.
If zeroed at 10 yards, then there is no hold under. If zeroed at 25 yards, the 10 yard shot would require hold over.
In either case, if you are correctly zeroed, or you know the correct holdover to use, than holdover has NO influence. But parallax error does.
"The parallax “error” only becomes one if your head position is inconsistent." Not necessarily.
When you have incorrect parallax adjustment, a consistent head position is not enough. Your eye must also be optically centered. You can hold your head in the same position very time and you still might see the POA move as you change the parallax adjustment. That is an indication that your parallax adjustment is critical, and that your eye position, though maybe consistent, is not perfectly centered. I generally don't use a cheekweld, but I do use the correct parallax setting when I shoot. So I can shoot with any head position, and have no noticeable parallax error.
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You are correct on the holdover at 10y, Stupid mistake on my side...
With consistent head position I imply a consistent eye position. If that is achieved, then having the crosshair not in the same focal plane as the target does not really matter. (I’m not saying not to parallax, of course it is always better to rule out possible detrimental factors, but in this case the parallax is not adjustable to below 20y. And we’re not trying to win the $5000 EBR trophy, but we are trying to achieve a humane kill shot, so let’s say within 3/8th of an inch is acceptable enough.
Think of when you shoot with iron sights. Lining up the post/notch forces your head (and thus your eye...) position to be consistent, but the parallax error is huge. In fact it is so enormous that it is not even possible to get both the post and target in focus simultaneously! (The parallax error is literally the whole distance from post to target!). And yet accuracy with the ole iron sights can be extremely good too...
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The Athlon Midas TAC has 10 yard parallax and a growing reputation as a great scope. About $600.
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Leupold makes a close focus adaptor for this purpose. It will work on none Leupold scopes also, you may have to be creative to mount it. An easy way is to lip it into a scope cover that you have cut the end out of.
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