22 RD Monster comparison…..

[RScott]

But they did shoot well without cleaning between switching to the good pellets. If cleaning with WD-40 is the answer. Why do the good pellets shoot well without needing the bore cleaned?

Regarding your fliers, maybe the good-shooting lots of pellets do not pick up and/or deposit lead as much as the poor-shooting lots. Maybe solvent cleaning/treating will make the poor-shooting lots more like the good-shooting lots.

Until we figure out what causes one lot to shoot better than another, we need to keep an open mind.

My "fliers" in 25m benchrest matches are typically about 5 to 12mm misses (about 1 to 2 MOA) now and then. They seem to occur with random frequency during a match. But I get fewer to none of them with some lots vs other lots (JSB .177 13.4 MRDs). In fact, pellets shot straight-from-the-tin from a good-shooting batch perform better than carefully selected pellets (screened for weight, head size, yrrah roll, skirt and head appearance, and concentricity) from poor-shooting batches.

I'll try igolfat8's test to see what the timing and frequency of these "mini-fliers" are with the poor-shooting lots, and then try various cleaning solvents to see if they can reduce the frequency of these misses.

I think Thomasair has helped me improve my FT and BR shooting much more than anyone else. I pay attention when he challenges my perspectives on things like good vs bad lots of pellets. Frequent and proper cleaning makes sense. Not sure I'll simply commit to WD-40 as a fix-all solvent, but I'll include it in my testing.

 

[thomasair]

I’m glad it’s helped a few people. Thanks.
An open mind is the key.

Mike

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Any experience with Kroil vs WD ?

 

[thomasair]

This will sound sarcastic…but it is really what I do with everything.

Try each and see what works better for you.

I’ve heard guys preach about using simple green to clean their barrels. Their proof that it works is that the first patch comes out black and nothing on the patches that follow. What they don’t know is that it did nothing to remove any lead.

Kroil has not given me what I want…but lots of guys say it’s the best.

Mike

 

[igolfat8]

A while back I tested oodles (that’s a technical term BTW) of gun cleaners and other common shop chemicals that I had on hand to see which ones worked best at removing burnt carbon residue in a powder burner. Not a single one of them would remove any lead. Granted this is a totally different application but may be worth reading if you are so inclined? A powder burner transfers lead to the bore under much greater pressures and temperatures than an airgun does.

Testing LOTS of gun cleaners effectiveness at carbon removal

You may or may not find this interesting so consider exactly how much you paid for it …. ;) I started this test a few years ago and since I’ve added a few more products to my shelves I decided to dust it off and update my test results. I used every liquid (oils, CLPS and you name it) that I...

www.rimfireaccuracy.com

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Not sarcastic at all.

Thank you for sharing your experience.

 

[RScott]

A while back I tested oodles (that’s a technical term BTW) of gun cleaners and other common shop chemicals that I had on hand to see which ones worked best at removing burnt carbon residue in a powder burner. Not a single one of them would remove any lead. Granted this is a totally different application but may be worth reading if you are so inclined? A powder burner transfers lead to the bore under much greater pressures and temperatures than an airgun does.

Testing LOTS of gun cleaners effectiveness at carbon removal

You may or may not find this interesting so consider exactly how much you paid for it …. ;) I started this test a few years ago and since I’ve added a few more products to my shelves I decided to dust it off and update my test results. I used every liquid (oils, CLPS and you name it) that I...

www.rimfireaccuracy.com

Wow! You are an experimenter! You might have been on the right track in your attempt to rub soft lead into sanded metal surfaces. Too bad you couldn't see lead particles after your rubbing. So you might need different surfaces, e.g., files? But once you tackle that problem, maybe do the lead rubbing on substrates after they have been prep'd with lubes, to see 1) does lead adhere more or less depending on the lube, and 2) what combinations of lubes work best for prep and lead removal. I don't have the facilities or abilities to do such experiments well, but I am sure interested in the findings of such tests.