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Tuning .22 Marauder Striker Hammer Adjustment ????

Morning!

I've owned my .22 Marauder for a few months now, and two days ago when out for some spring gopher hunting with it. Went through 400+ rounds, and stopped counting at 200 dead gophers. BUT.... on a few of the adults/large ones, it took a second shot to end them. There were no shots beyond 40 yards. So, I decided the gun needs more power. I started piddling, and put the included graphic together from the info contained in the Archer kit for these guns.

What has me puzzled is the "Striker Hammer Adjustment". (as in the middle image of the first pic below) I ASSUMED that the adjustment was from a "stop" position.. meaning to turn it all the way clockwise/in to the stop point, then turn it Counter clockwise 2 turns out. Here's the issue.... there wasn't any "stop" when I turned it clockwise. It just keeps turning, and after me going clockwise, and counterclockwise trying to figure it out, I now have no idea where that screw/adjustment exactly is at. I did everything else on the included pic, and shot the gun. (I don't have a chrono) The gun now seems to shoot slower, as I can now see the flight of the pellets just prior to striking the target.

** So far I've done as indicated in the pic.. took out the jam screw, and turned the Transfer Port screw clockwise to stop, then CC out, 4 1/2 turns, then reinstalled the jam screw.

**The Hammer spring was left at "factory"/as is.

**Then, thinking is would be simple, I attempted adjusting the Stricker Hammer.... NOT! For the sake of simplicity, the issue I'm seeking help with right now is.... the Striker Hammer adjustment..... without being able to find/detect a "stop" either way, .... what should I do??  All I'm looking to do is give the gun a bit more FPE. I'm not too overly concerned with high shot counts per fill....would rather have the knockdown power.



Maurader .22 Settings.1621430875.png
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I can help with some of your questions. My Marauder is a generation one and highly modified I don't adjust the transfer port at all mine is bored out and left full open the pictures I'm including are of a hill Hammer that I will be adding to my gun. You see the marauder has a striker which is on an Allen headed shaft you can decrease the stroke of the hammer by turning the striker clockwise or as in mine it can be turned totally counterclockwise with the striker face resting against the hammer body for maximum power that's where I would leave it.Turned totally counterclockwise and against the hammer body.

For the spring pretension screw the guide the maximum amount counterclockwise that's your starting point. Then turn it in clockwise until you get the pretension you want for maximum performance.

You really do need a chronograph because as the strike of your hammer increases against the valve you will reach a plateau where you get no more power but use more air and in fact if you go past that you can use more air and get less velocity.

Jim
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in mine it can be turned totally counterclockwise with the striker face resting against the hammer body for maximum power that's where I would leave it.Turned totally counterclockwise and against the hammer body.

That's my issue.... I cannot detect any "stop", when turning it either CW or CCW..... it just keeps turning. I can't even detect any change in the tension on the screw when turning it....either way. Right now I have no idea just where the screw/adjustment is within it's adjustment range. Without being able to detect a "stop" in either direction, what can/should I be looking/feeling for, in order to figure out just where in the adjustment range it might be? Not even sure if that's worded in such a way that it makes any sense?
 
Counterclockwise is at full power. This is where you have full stroke length of the hammer hitting the valve pin/poppet pin. You could compare this to trying to hammer a nail inside a small box as compared to a larger box where you have more room to swing the hammer. Any clockwise adjustment to the striker reduces the stroke length hitting the valve pin thus reducing the stroke length/power output/FPE.
 
Ok I'm going to get in to this. 

Yes the question was about striker adjustment. Also mentioned was getting maximum power.

I don't think you can get maximum performance in a reasonable amount of time without a cronograph.

I have found that at as you increase the force applied to open the valve you reach a plateau in velocity, and then actually decrease. After you reach this plateau you just waste air, and get fewer shots per fill. I also see degraded accuracy. This could be measured by shots per fill and average accuracy. How many times do you want to shoot? I for one do not have unlimited pellets or time. One cronograph purchase, saving time and pellets. Ya I recommend that. 

Jim
 
OK.... been looking at chronographs as recommended. I don't see a need to invest heavily in one, as it's only gona be for this purpose, and once things are figured out, it'll likely just gather dust. So, with that in mind, what are the recommendations? It might make some folks gasp, but this air gun is just a plaything. ;) 



I've looked at the following:

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086SW26DQ/?coliid=I3VWS42U7AGCEK&colid=33ZOCMC3JRA40&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it 

and

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN5DTE/?coliid=IRPH4EKX0MRHS&colid=33ZOCMC3JRA40&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Thoughts?


 
In your case of being bitten by the I need more power bug, you’re putting the cart ahead of the horse. You don’t even know where your gun is at speed wise right now. You also didn’t mention what pellet you were using. Getting advice on turning this or twisting that just still has you flying blind. If your gun is shooting 14gr pellets now, maybe just jump up to a 16 or 18gr. If your using 18gr pellets now and your gun is sending them 880fps, cranking up your power is only going to get you a faster gun that misses more gophers because it’s not accurate anymore. The only airgun shooter that doesn’t need a chronograph is the guy who will sell his gun before he tunes or fixes it. For the rest of us a chronograph is as important as a scope. If you don’t consider 4 or 5 tins of pellets a major investment, then neither is a chronograph. Same amount of money.