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Tuning .22 AEA HP SS trigger problem

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I just looked at his site, I noticed that all his mags have a large countersink on the clear plastic mag cover, I'm going to countersink one of mine, just to see if it makes a difference.

Also, I noticed, like you, the Crosman premier domes work well, it seems to have less misloads with these, I think that they are not pure soft lead like the JSB's are and definitely harder and shinier and less prone to be skewered by the probe.
 
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I had the same issue with the HP Carbine in .22, I backed off the piston to reveal 1/4" of threads (6) to bring the power down. The issue is less gap=greater pressure pushing the piston back, the wider the gap=less pressure pushing the piston back. The issue comes with the bolt getting shoved back so fast that once it bounces off the rear buffer, is comes back to batter so quickly it just pops a hole through the pellet. 

I have a sample of a dozen such pellets on my shooting bench and it only took me a week to remember the concept of pressure vs containment. 

As far as the trigger goes, I used a little too much molly on the pins and contact points but it has kept the junk out so in my case at least, it worked. 
 
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I too have backed the power adjuster down one notch from highest setting, the two usable mags I have tend to stovepipe the last pellet so I removed the clear plastic cover and dripped some microlubrol silicon oil into each, haven't had another stovepipe since.

I noticed on Ebay someone is selling a 3D printed piston head with an O-ring around the OD which fits between the existing piston and barrel end, they state it allows you to cycle at lower pressure and/or shoot down past 120 bar and still achieve cycling, I can't see how it would fit though as the threads of the cycling bar protrude through the piston head and his sample does not show a relief hole to allow this to pass through.
 
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I too have backed the power adjuster down one notch from highest setting, the two usable mags I have tend to stovepipe the last pellet so I removed the clear plastic cover and dripped some microlubrol silicon oil into each, haven't had another stovepipe since.

I noticed on Ebay someone is selling a 3D printed piston head with an O-ring around the OD which fits between the existing piston and barrel end, they state it allows you to cycle at lower pressure and/or shoot down past 120 bar and still achieve cycling, I can't see how it would fit though as the threads of the cycling bar protrude through the piston head and his sample does not show a relief hole to allow this to pass through.
Click to expand...

This one?



https://www.ebay.com/itm/255207561896?hash=item3b6b8e5aa8:g:NKgAAOSwRuphr6lh
 
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As for his hammer spring adjuster, it would add a couple of inches to the stock length, I like mine all the way in for bench shooting, besides, the spring is already adjustable with the collar in front of the side swing latch.

when I contacted the Pellet shop about my cycling issues they recommended backing this collar off and unscrewing the stock out by 2 turns, they also said that to further weaken the spring, leave it cocked overnight.
20220501_113825.1651419775.jpg

 
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Well, I just finished my 10th tin of CPHP's through the HP Carbine. I saved all my culls that got jammed up in the receiver, I haven't counted them all but its less than 100 pellets. I haven't had a single jam in the past two weeks and the last one was out of a known bad magazine, shame on me!

I solved the jamming issue altogether by adding spent .22lr casings into the front air dist ahead of the piston under the shroud. I am using 6 casings right now. LOVE this gun and with over 5000 pellets through it, this is going to be a keeper!
 
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