2024 CS4 SETUP

[F6Hawk]

And.. I'm seeing all different types of information. Guess it depends what type, 3a, 4a, etc.

MS has been dried in microwave ovens since the 80s. The biggest issue is temps getting too high (>500° C) at high power.

I haven't tried it yet myself, but when it comes time to reactivate my sieve, I will weigh it before, heat it in the microwave for 5 minutes on 30% power (same setting I use to reheat everything and cook 98% of foods in the MW), take it out, check the temp with a probe, and go from there. The goal is to keep the temp around 200° C or lower. Then after a couple of cycles, weight the beads and see how much less they weigh.

 

[F6Hawk]

Thanks so much Shootthabreeze. You answered my question exactly without trying to school me on what “proof” means.
Believe that I’ll try your setup.
The relative humidity is very low out here in west Texas so maybe I can get by without the big gold filter.

I wasn't trying to school you, just stating facts. I couldn't "prove it" myself (anecdotal at best, so not really proof) because I haven't been using a pre-filter.

But I'm glad you got a non-scientific answer that helps you decide.

 

[longdog]

Wow….some just can’t help it

 

[Ta-Ta Toothie]

MS has been dried in microwave ovens since the 80s. The biggest issue is temps getting too high (>500° C) at high power.

I haven't tried it yet myself, but when it comes time to reactivate my sieve, I will weigh it before, heat it in the microwave for 5 minutes on 30% power (same setting I use to reheat everything and cook 98% of foods in the MW), take it out, check the temp with a probe, and go from there. The goal is to keep the temp around 200° C or lower. Then after a couple of cycles, weight the beads and see how much less they weigh.

Did you see the product I have posted, it claims it needs to be heated @ 550°C for 2 hours. I don't think a microwave will reach those Temps. I may try it out for the heck of it, but I doubt the product will reach its full potential. Looks like the 3a doesn't require such a high heat so maybe I'll get that next time.

 

[F6Hawk]

Did you see the product I have posted, it claims it needs to be heated @ 550°C for 2 hours. I don't think a microwave will reach those Temps. I may try it out for the heck of it, but I doubt the product will reach its full potential. Looks like the 3a doesn't require such a high heat so maybe I'll get that next time.

I did see it. And yes, it requires a LOT of heat. But the beauty of the MW is that it really only heats the water (and much more quickly than convection heat), which will evaporate out of the MS, and won't require the time it takes to evenly heat the entire MS mass.

Give it a try now... take some used MS (measure equal amounts by volume of used and un-used, weigh each identical volume to get a likely water weight) then with that known weight, put it thru 3-5 cycles of 30% power for 5 minutes, and weigh it again. Assuming it has absorbed some water already, the weight should have dropped. Check the temp each time the MW stops if you can with an instant-read probe thermometer to make sure you don't exceed the 550° C (I suspect you won't and won't NEED to, as the 30% power setting will heat the water more slowly, giving it time to vaporize before ever getting much over 200° C, but that's just a WAG). I know in reading about reactivation, MW times are MUCH lower than conventional convection heating times.

C,mon buddy, take one for the team!! Worst that can happen is you end up throwing the MS out, which you'll do anyway, eh?

(Lots of research on the interwebz about it, with varying results)

 

[Ta-Ta Toothie]

I did see it. And yes, it requires a LOT of heat. But the beauty of the MW is that it really only heats the water (and much more quickly than convection heat), which will evaporate out of the MS, and won't require the time it takes to evenly heat the entire MS mass.

Give it a try now... take some used MS (measure equal amounts by volume of used and un-used, weigh each identical volume to get a likely water weight) then with that known weight, put it thru 3-5 cycles of 30% power for 5 minutes, and weigh it again. Assuming it has absorbed some water already, the weight should have dropped. Check the temp each time the MW stops if you can with an instant-read probe thermometer to make sure you don't exceed the 550° C (I suspect you won't and won't NEED to, as the 30% power setting will heat the water more slowly, giving it time to vaporize before ever getting much over 200° C, but that's just a WAG). I know in reading about reactivation, MW times are MUCH lower than conventional convection heating times.

C,mon buddy, take one for the team!! Worst that can happen is you end up throwing the MS out, which you'll do anyway, eh?

(Lots of research on the interwebz about it, with varying results)

I'll give it a spin, I just want 100% confidence that I'm getting the best out of the product. I may just reuse this for a pre-filter and not my post-filter.

 

[F6Hawk]

I'll give it a spin, I just want 100% confidence that I'm getting the best out of the product. I may just reuse this for a pre-filter and not my post-filter.

I'm sure it will be an interesting experiment. Can't wait to hear your analysis!

 

[Shoothabreez]

I agree that monitoring by weight is a better method of gauging desiccant saturation level.
I've been reading more about 3a, 4a, 5a & 13x MS and silica gel (SG). It seems that 3a may be better suited to our application than 4a, 5a & 13x as an H²O absorbent and for practical regeneration. On the other hand, color changing SG can hold a higher percentage of H²O but has a slower rate of absorption, can be dried @ lower Temps and can hint at saturation level.

In drying HPA to use in PCP guns, which desiccant do you think is a more effective & practical H²O absorbent for pre-filtering and/or post-filtering?

 

[F6Hawk]

I agree that monitoring by weight is a better method of gauging desiccant saturation level.
I've been reading more about 3a, 4a, 5a & 13x MS and silica gel (SG). It seems that 3a may be better suited to our application than 4a, 5a & 13x as an H²O absorbent and for practical regeneration. On the other hand, color changing SG can hold a higher percentage of H²O but has a slower rate of absorption, can be dried @ lower Temps and can hint at saturation level.

In drying HPA to use in PCP guns, which desiccant do you think is a more effective & practical H²O absorbent for pre-filtering and/or post-filtering?

If I were to get serious about removing water (haven't thus far because I am mostly filling my gun directly, and very little water is generated: but if I start filling my 9L tank, then...) I would run a 4 foot (2×2 foot) PVC chamber mentioned here on AGN full of colored desiccant as a pre filter and a MS post filter.

I've only topped off my SCBA tank twice now, but recently had cause to remove the valve, and so did a visual inspection, and there wasn't a drop of water inside. Currently, I have a post-filter and "burp" the CS4 every 8-10 minutes, and zero water in the tank. I am not too worried about it ever being a problem.