20 MOA rail +20 MOA mount?

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I had this and noticed it made my scope zero so far away from its optical center. I noticed when I put my Pard night vision on so much of my scopes image at the bottom was cut off it looked horrible. As soon as I dialed up a few full turns it centered and look so much better. So I went with a zero moa mount and just had the 20 moa rail. Much closer to optical center.
 
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arubino19 said:
I had this and noticed it made my scope zero so far away from its optical center. I noticed when I put my Pard night vision on so much of my scopes image at the bottom was cut off it looked horrible. As soon as I dialed up a few full turns it centered and look so much better. So I went with a zero moa mount and just had the 20 moa rail. Much closer to optical center.
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I don't think I will have this issue due to how clear the scope is. I will check later today
 
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arubino19 said:
I had this and noticed it made my scope zero so far away from its optical center. I noticed when I put my Pard night vision on so much of my scopes image at the bottom was cut off it looked horrible. As soon as I dialed up a few full turns it centered and look so much better. So I went with a zero moa mount and just had the 20 moa rail. Much closer to optical center.
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You can go into your Pards menu and center your crosshairs In the screen. The gun I use 30/20 on has a Nightforce scope on it. So how far away you are from being optically centered depends on the quality of your scope. With that scope and my Sightrons I’m not concerned. It’s not like I’m shooting a belted magnum.
 
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That scope advertises 50 moa of windage adjustment. Let us know what the actual total travel is of the scope from your zero distance and we can do the math from there.

I just did this same thing as an experiment recently with a 20 moa mount. The difference though is my scope's adjustment range has 110 moa / 32 mils of travel. The gun, an AAA Slayer, has 25 moa built into the rail and I added a 20 moa mount to it. With a 40 yard zero I ended up with a total of 24.5 mils of usable dialing elevation. Another example, my AAA Evol 30 has 50 moa of slope manufactured into the picatinny rail and a 0 degree scope mount. With a 40 yard zero I have 29.5 mils of elevation adjustment. Because I have a lot of windage travel, there wasn't a problem putting on another 20 moa
 
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Vetmx said:
You can go into your Pards menu and center your crosshairs In the screen. The gun I use 30/20 on has a Nightforce scope on it. So how far away you are from being optically centered depends on the quality of your scope. With that scope and my Sightrons I’m not concerned. It’s not like I’m shooting a belted magnum.
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The reticle centering on the Pard did nothing for me. I have an Element scope, plenty clear and quality enough of scope. This image is what it looked like when my scope was zeroed so far down on the turret travel. The only way I could get a nice circular image was physically angling the Pard pointing slightly downward on the scopes eye piece. I don’t know how to explain it into words but as soon as I took 20moa away and was able to zero the scope more near the optical center the image was even on all sides without having to angle the Pard downwards.

5C0758FA-E632-4E94-A60D-F581B653E95D.png
 
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Also is more than 20moa necessary for an airgun? Even after going from 40moa to 20moa I still have enough travel to dial more than 200 yards and I think my Helix only has 65moa total. I don’t know a whole lot on the scope side of things.

Just tested my travel, I have 47 moa of elevation from my current zero point which is enough to dial out to 260 yards with my current setup. That’s only with a 20moa rail, that’s crazy enough for me. I can’t imagine with the newer Helix that has 100moa of total travel how far I could dial.
 
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arubino19 said:
The reticle centering on the Pard did nothing for me. I have an Element scope, plenty clear and quality enough of scope. This image is what it looked like when my scope was zeroed so far down on the turret travel. The only way I could get a nice circular image was physically angling the Pard pointing slightly downward on the scopes eye piece. I don’t know how to explain it into words but as soon as I took 20moa away and was able to zero the scope more near the optical center the image was even on all sides without having to angle the Pard downwards.

View attachment 331579
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Yep, I know what you’re saying. I’ve experienced the same dark top as you even after centering my Pard. I just figured it was the Pard mounts I have not centering the device. Since my shooting isn’t primarily at night, I’m not going to worry about it. At least now I know what is causing it. What is interesting is my 30/20 Impact with the Nightforce only has a slight shadow up top. My other Impact with a stock rail, a 0 MOA mount and an Element scope almost looks like yours.
 
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These Burris adjustable moa mounts are nice for zeroing in a scope to the height that you want the dials resting at. If you need a lot of center clarity, they will do that. If you want a lot of windage travel, they will do that. As a bonus, they don't mar the scope tube finish like metal clamps. They are found cheaper buying them on eBay.

AR-Signature QD P.E.P.R.™ Mount | Burris Optics

www.burrisoptics.com www.burrisoptics.com

XTR Signature Rings™ | Burris Optics

www.burrisoptics.com www.burrisoptics.com
 
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40 moa of cant should give you 12 mils. I run a 40 moa rail on my RimX 22 and with a 50yd zero I’m left with 25.5 mils of elevation. As long as you still have enough lower elevation to zero at the distance you want you’ll be fine. The one thing to remember is the more cant you ad the more degradation you’ll get in your optics as far as clarity.
 
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