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Crosman 1322 550fps for $1

OK, I spent more than a dollar as I bought the tooling in the past, but other than that, no additional aftermarket parts other than a bolt and nut as a solid pin.
Started life as stock left over parts in a bin from other 13xx escapades and I wanted to push the 1322 in its stock size to its max with no additional money even though i have enough extra parts to really hot rod it.
What I did
Transfer port open to .156
Barrel port opened to .156
Valve exhaust angle port with dremel
2.5 threads cut off of front valve half
Threads and internal rear valve lathe opened for more volume
Poppet shaft ground down
Poppet seal smoothed to increase flow
Inlet poppet drilled and pin pressed in To remove head space
Solid bolt for pivot pin
Rear cap drilled and tapped for RVA (Increased 15fps)
With 15.43 gamo
Pumps. Fps. Fpe
10. 469.3 7.54
12. 501.3 8.61
14. 532.9 9.73
16. 556.8 10.62


Kind of nice for a stock setup
I will finish dressing her up soon and testing to 20 Pumps but I don't see myself doing that regularly.
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Those are very good results! The inlet pin mod helps a ton. You seem pretty observant and knowledgeable, but I'll give my spiel, anyhow. Once you work these guns up to these high force pump cycles, the pump pins, and links can wear quick. And if you're like me, your elbow, too. For the metal bits I've just been using mac1 secret sauce. My understanding is it's essentially industrial hydraulic fluid. Keeps them from wearing thru. Preservative effect is pretty dramatic compared to whatever I used to use. Will save you some tubes, pins, and links in the long run.

For my elbow, I sought out a high-leverage pump arm. This after the new style plastic arm broke, and I fitted an old style one to, it, and it was even harder to pump. Whcih started making my elbow hurt. This led me to Tom West. Of course there are other ways you can achieve these results. But Tom does very good work, and he doesn't ask a ton of money for his work. I think about $200 will get you a full stock set. But I asked, and he does not just do grips or pump arms by themselves.

Anyhow, mine has a flat top piston from mountain air custom, DIY flat valve, some port work, and the inlet pin mod. Get around 585fps @10 pumps with 14.3gr pellets. 14.5" LW barrel.

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That is impressive! I barely get that with my 1322/66 build at 14 pumps. With the 15.43 grain. Going to tear into it again in the future. I have a old solid piston that I will install next to see what she does in this 1322.
I wanted to keep the piston cup to see if it would last longer as the cup would reduce the metal to metal contact when closed.
The 66/m4 pump tube is way easier to pump as it has a longer arm. I once built a13xx/2200 with a14 inch barrel and got 640fps with a flat top setup but wore out the pin holes as I'm sure I did not adjust the piston correctly.
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Those are very good results! The inlet pin mod helps a ton. You seem pretty observant and knowledgeable, but I'll give my spiel, anyhow. Once you work these guns up to these high force pump cycles, the pump pins, and links can wear quick. And if you're like me, your elbow, too. For the metal bits I've just been using mac1 secret sauce. My understanding is it's essentially industrial hydraulic fluid. Keeps them from wearing thru. Preservative effect is pretty dramatic compared to whatever I used to use. Will save you some tubes, pins, and links in the long run.

For my elbow, I sought out a high-leverage pump arm. This after the new style plastic arm broke, and I fitted an old style one to, it, and it was even harder to pump. Whcih started making my elbow hurt. This led me to Tom West. Of course there are other ways you can achieve these results. But Tom does very good work, and he doesn't ask a ton of money for his work. I think about $200 will get you a full stock set. But I asked, and he does not just do grips or pump arms by themselves.

Anyhow, mine has a flat top piston from mountain air custom, DIY flat valve, some port work, and the inlet pin mod. Get around 585fps @10 pumps with 14.3gr pellets. 14.5" LW barrel.

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How did you do that barrel band?
 
I used to have a solid brass flat piston in mine, and it's just not ideal. You are almost certainly going to wind up with either too little or too much headspace. The one I'm using is adjustable. Delrin, so it's not metal on metal, and it has two oring seals that are easy to service if need be. That's the one from mountain air custom.
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The positon cups actually work very well. But with that inlet pin mod, I imagine the cup is flexing a lot at max compression. That pin mod really makes a big difference in pressure since it reduces dead space to almost nothing.

That is a very cool 66 build! Always wanted to do something like that, but just kind of maxed out the 1322 and left it at that. Maybe some day.

I assume you meant the band in the first photo? It's a 2240 band that I cut, bent, and re-welded. Was not fun to get on or off the gun. And still didn't work all that well. Had a plastic 2289 front band. Tried a few drilled 13xx bands. I tired a solid aluminum one from the UK as well, but the barrel hole wasn't true. And the end that slid into the tube was under sized, so it really wasn't worth more than scrap. Upon checking just now, I do not seem them listed at all on their site. But the final band is a maverick custom unit. Fit and finish on it is perfect in every way. Cost 1.5x as much as the gun it's self, but well worth it, IMO.