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Diana 100 yards with a springer?
- Thread starter Rob MacRuger
- Start date
DN T06 back on. 30 MOA and time to re-adjust the scope in the back yard.
The Bullseye mount was hardly used and was very tight. Unfortunately no droop compensation.
Scope fitted nicely with my home made cheek riser.
The Bullseye mount was hardly used and was very tight. Unfortunately no droop compensation.
Scope fitted nicely with my home made cheek riser.
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As Jeff mentioned, the Tuner from Hector Medina really helps. Same tuner as you see here on my D54 Pro.
Jeff got me moving on the 100-yard shooting. This was my first attempt. JTS 16gr with very slight breeze. It doesn’t take much of a breeze to take the skirted pellets off course. 3 in a 1/2” cluster, then the couple carried by the breeze. 4 within 1.25”, and the 5th making it 1.75” overall.
SWFA 12x and a Diana ZR compensated and accurized mount.
I like the idea of zeroing at 50.
Steve
Jeff got me moving on the 100-yard shooting. This was my first attempt. JTS 16gr with very slight breeze. It doesn’t take much of a breeze to take the skirted pellets off course. 3 in a 1/2” cluster, then the couple carried by the breeze. 4 within 1.25”, and the 5th making it 1.75” overall.
SWFA 12x and a Diana ZR compensated and accurized mount.
I like the idea of zeroing at 50.
Steve
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I'd be happy with that result. Where can I find the tuner for sale?
I have the exact same mount. Please explain compensated and accurized?
I shoot a lot of 22LR at 100 yards so it would be nice to uncase the 54 once in a while on the same range.
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Hector Medina sells the Tuners.
Compensated - Droop compensation built into the mount
Accurized - Custom work performed by Hector medina on the ZR mounts. Hector drills and taps holes in the top of the base, above the back end of each rail. He then inserts tiny plugs of PTFE (I think), and puts a set screw above the plugs for tension adjustment. This allows you to snug up just enough to remove some of the slop between the rails and the base.
Steve
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One thing about those muzzle tuners mentioned earlier I'd like to add, they are gun, current tune and pellet specific.
I think, but could be wrong, that after everything has been sorted to the best one can, then go to apply the tuner to further improve accuracy. It's not guaranteed to improve things drastically, but can help under certain conditions... Or even hinder if poorly adjusted. Found it helped on my .22 Air King Pro, but on my .177 54 it didn't help, so I just stayed with the OEM front sight. One thing to keep in mind, with the HPM device (tuner) you will need o-rings if you need to adjust off the barrel sleeve/shroud (false outer barrel). Owners of 48/54 and similar models will know what I'm talking about, Lol.
Limbsaver had a barrel harmonic tuner, really inexpensive. It was kind of ugly, but some said it worked well. Wouldn't be nearly as good looking as one meant for the 54, but if one wanted to experiment with harmonic tuning it's one way to go that shouldn't damage the barrel in any way and is only $10 give or take... Just a thought, but know tuning can take quite a bit of adjusting to get just right.
I think, but could be wrong, that after everything has been sorted to the best one can, then go to apply the tuner to further improve accuracy. It's not guaranteed to improve things drastically, but can help under certain conditions... Or even hinder if poorly adjusted. Found it helped on my .22 Air King Pro, but on my .177 54 it didn't help, so I just stayed with the OEM front sight. One thing to keep in mind, with the HPM device (tuner) you will need o-rings if you need to adjust off the barrel sleeve/shroud (false outer barrel). Owners of 48/54 and similar models will know what I'm talking about, Lol.
Limbsaver had a barrel harmonic tuner, really inexpensive. It was kind of ugly, but some said it worked well. Wouldn't be nearly as good looking as one meant for the 54, but if one wanted to experiment with harmonic tuning it's one way to go that shouldn't damage the barrel in any way and is only $10 give or take... Just a thought, but know tuning can take quite a bit of adjusting to get just right.
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The shroud should be tight. It's only held in place by compression of the front sight, just loosen the grub screw of the front sight, press it back to shroud (false barrel) then snug that screw again. You just might find that keeping all that tight will have far greater effect than adding a harmonic tuner.
The actual barrel O.D. measures 15mm, possibly a hair over (15.2mm-15.3mm max). I believe that shroud is mostly cosmetic, could be wrong on that also. Knowing barrel diameter opens up options for sleeving and possibly adding a custom brake or such things... Most folks that own 54 Air King (& Pro's) seem to dismiss doing such, as it leaves potential to ruin accuracy, but I'm a firm believer in tailoring tools to the operators needs and not the other way around. If nothing else, you know the actual barrel O.D. now.
The actual barrel O.D. measures 15mm, possibly a hair over (15.2mm-15.3mm max). I believe that shroud is mostly cosmetic, could be wrong on that also. Knowing barrel diameter opens up options for sleeving and possibly adding a custom brake or such things... Most folks that own 54 Air King (& Pro's) seem to dismiss doing such, as it leaves potential to ruin accuracy, but I'm a firm believer in tailoring tools to the operators needs and not the other way around. If nothing else, you know the actual barrel O.D. now.
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Your first paragraph......that is the whole idea of a tuner. It is getting the best accuracy possible out of a given set up.
Your second paragraph.......I have been using tuners for about 20 years, never saw an incidence of hindering accuracy. The orings needed come with Hectors tuner.
It takes a little time and patience, maybe some folks don't have that.
Years ago I was most often the only shooter at a PB benchrest match with a tuner. I heard many snide and stupid comments. Funny, most of those guys are out of the sport because they could not compete, or are now using a tuner.
With one pellet I found the tuner installed with no outings shot extremely well.
You will find as you make adjustments your point of aim will vary, that is normal as your changing the exit point of your pellet within the barrel harmonics.
No, they are not for everyone. They are an added cost and they require some effort but if you want to get everything your rifle has to offer, they are with it.
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Thanks for all the help from everyone!!!
I believe I need to get this rifle shooting one ragged holes again at 25 yards in my backyard before I do anything else. Like it did when new.
I think getting the tuner might be a good idea before they become unavailable in the future.
The barrel is thicker than I thought it would be. When I first saw the grind mark I freaked out, LOL. Sleeve now tight, O-ring looked good. Work in progress.
Gave the bore a good cleaning.
Update:
How about these 5 shot one ragged holes yesterday at 25 yards using Crossman Premier $6 for a box of 500? Got 2 out of 18 targets. Maybe it's me losing my shooting abilities? LOL
I believe I need to get this rifle shooting one ragged holes again at 25 yards in my backyard before I do anything else. Like it did when new.
I think getting the tuner might be a good idea before they become unavailable in the future.
The barrel is thicker than I thought it would be. When I first saw the grind mark I freaked out, LOL. Sleeve now tight, O-ring looked good. Work in progress.
Gave the bore a good cleaning.
Update:
How about these 5 shot one ragged holes yesterday at 25 yards using Crossman Premier $6 for a box of 500? Got 2 out of 18 targets. Maybe it's me losing my shooting abilities? LOL
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Keep an eye on the inner sleeve as well. I’ve had several 54’s that had the inner sleeve shifting back inside that plastic insert. If you see the sleeve shifting back, adding a very slight flare to the end of that inner sleeve will keep this from happening.
Steve
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Update conclusion and solution:
Being not so happy with having a 17 FPE Diana 54 I re-installed the original Diana piston seal to compare to the JM seal I worked on. FPS rose from 750 to 760. I must have had the new seal almost there. I couldn't get either JM spring to get over 760 FPS even with the original piston seal. WTF springs did I buy? I now see Vortek sells a 33 coil spring like the original.
I reinstalled the original Diana spring and it is back to 835-849 FPS with Crossman 14.3 pellets. I guess the shotgun approach of replacing parts was a waste of money but I did learn how to work on this rifle.
Now to get back to my 100 yard goal.
Being not so happy with having a 17 FPE Diana 54 I re-installed the original Diana piston seal to compare to the JM seal I worked on. FPS rose from 750 to 760. I must have had the new seal almost there. I couldn't get either JM spring to get over 760 FPS even with the original piston seal. WTF springs did I buy? I now see Vortek sells a 33 coil spring like the original.
I reinstalled the original Diana spring and it is back to 835-849 FPS with Crossman 14.3 pellets. I guess the shotgun approach of replacing parts was a waste of money but I did learn how to work on this rifle.
Now to get back to my 100 yard goal.
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Like others have suggested, zero at fifty yards and use hold under / over for lesser or greater distances. A good or great scope with mil dots is required. One hundred yard accuracy for me is a soup can.
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The currently mounted Crossfire 2 scope is a POS and not capable of what you are suggesting. I'm reluctant to throw on my Viper PST Gen 2 5-25X50 which would fit the bill. I would also be able to see the holes at 100 yards without my spotting scope.
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I run a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50mm on my TX200 MKIII shooting at 100-yards. It will depend on background to see shots. Same for PB. I used a Longshot system to monitor most of the time at that range.
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I have shot my 52 .25 extensively at 75 yards with 20.14 FTT & it will hold a 1” group or better at 75.
At 100, in my opinion you’re riding more on wind readings and follow through must be perfect.
For a .22 I think you have your work cut out for you.
Yrrah showed a .22 from a PCP could reliably do 130-150.
I had a 25ft/lb .22 54 and with JSB 18.13 or 21.14 Kodiaks you should be able to hold a 1.5” group or better with a scope at 100. You may need a moa riser.
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I've been having the same experience with an HW30 in .20cal at 75 yards.
It gives you the understanding of the importance of a level rifle and scope.
would it kill a pigeon at 75?
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I have the Diamondback Tactical 4-16X44 EBR2C MilRad retical on both my rimfires. For a low end scope it is not bad for 100 yards outdoors.
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