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So here was my thinking- This is where i initially got excited for the airmarksman backbone, but then they completely dropped the ball. So i ended up gathering parts. That "backbone" is 1" x 1.25" tall- too big as is, but I wanted the additional height since it would need to be cut to...

Hah! It's funny that we are actually thinking in similiar directions on this. You just described my plan, so now I don't feel so weird sharing. Let me go take some pictures of the parts i've gathered so far. :)

Oh wow. I got up to 180 before I blew the o-ring on the back of the valve rod. Hopefully that was just a fluke, as turning up the pressure would certainly be nice. I assumed it was just too much for the o-rings in general

I'm mainly curious if/ how much bigger the valve seat/ opening is, which is why this post interested me. With my .357, I can open up the rest of the passages, but i've been wondering if that is really the restriction for big bore. I will say the Huma .357 TP is massive and no longer is the...

Not trying to pick on you here- but has anyone actually measured and reported the differences? If not, we should really try to do that collectively. People quote the advertising all the time without pointing out what exactly is different. I can see the valve seats are slightly different (I...

Do you have any pictures of the fitment of the new valve seat against the valve? I'm wondering if theres much better airflow to be had if we decrease the diameter of the steel cone section. Also- It looks like you machined back the Peek quite a bit- I'm curious how much that reduces what...

For those of you with the backbone, exactly how thick (Tall) is it? The back section that is stiffening everything- not the scope rail part Curious what the overall height is. the stock rail is a little more than 1/4" thick. Looking at this picture above i would guess maybe 5/8" thick...

it's a "close" 3/8". I'd aim for 1/2" to be safe. Im sure its some metric amount thats right around 3/8"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYFSBJK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's the one i bought

Transfer port AND liner lock is is 13x0.5mm the one you posted wtih the 1/2-20 isnt for the .357. Technically you don't need the liner lock doing it this way, but using it allows you to thread on the stock shroud and use the 18mm thread moderators. On the 357 this 13mm liner lock threads...

Yes, you can directly thread the CF tube to the transfer port side. That's my plan too with the tap I showed. At the end of the day, the CF tube will be epoxied to the liner, and the transfer port will be "stuck on" too. It's possible to not have it be stuck on too, but that is going to be...

Right at the muzzle i'm getting between 11.83mm and 11.86mm. Thats due to the rifling impressions. 12mm ID is a nice "loose" fit that will give you enough room for some JB weld between the two and make it solid.

Nice! Yup pretty much exactly what im looking to do.

Here's HP Varmint in .25. These are the eagle vision adjustable scope rings and a 34mm Vortex scope. Rings could definitely be quite a bit lower.

Oops- brain fart. 1/2-20 wont work for .357. It's way too small. Next SAE size that would work is 5/8-24. Technically .578"×28 would work also, but thats fairly uncommon. Here's a quick & dirty drawing of what i was thinking of. 27mm OD to fit on a 30mm OD x 1.5mm thick wall "shroud"...

No no- not move it to the left side of the gun. Unbolt the round handle you grab, physically flip it upside down. How it comes stock, the screw and longer part of the handle is on the bottom. I'm saying flip it, so the screw enters from the top, and the longer part of the handle is on top...

I picked up the first gen AEA HP Varmint (longer barrel) a couple years back. Besides the trigger system being crap (heavy, gritty, can't really do much to drastically improve it), i've had great luck with it. Shoots straight, consistent, etc. For being a new brand, they seem to really be...

My solution to fix that issue is flip over the handle. You then move your hand on top of the gauge, vs right on it. Works well enough for me and was a 30 second fix.

Alright- Here' a few pictures of what i'm considering using as an external plenum. Note: this will all require at minimum, some kind of adapter to bolt on the bottom of the powerblock. Or, potentially make a new valve block to incorporate it into a single unit. I dont feel safe at all just...

Here's the CF sleeve I have. 12x15mm but ill have to bore the blocks slightly. The sleeve itself will be tapped with the m13x0.5 so it threads right onto the transfer port Its a close, but loose enough fit on the liner that i'll coat the liner with JB weld epoxy, slide the liner on, and...