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2936.38

Two R9’s here- had one out the other day and it was clover-leafing 5.53 FTT’s at 35 yards with ease. I shot 5 that could be covered with a dime and put it away. The other R9 put 10 4.52 FTT’s under an inch at 55 yards the only time I’ve stretched it out so far.

I’ve got an Air Hawk that was my first springer purchase last year. It’s always been very smooth and vibration-free, with an OK trigger, but never been very accurate. I’ve spent a lot of time, effort, and money trying(unsuccessfully) to get it to group as well as a German springer does out of...

What caliber and power level are you looking at? Break barrel, under lever, or side lever? I’ve bought about a dozen different break barrels in the last year, and I’d have to say that the R9/HW95 is the best of the bunch- unless you want something lower-powered. If that’s the case, drop down to...

That Bug Buster scope will probably not fit in any one-piece mounts. Leapers UTG has a regular 3-9x32 that would, though. I just got one the other day. Seems to be doing alright, and at least one member of another forum claims that they hold up well on medium-powered springers. If you really...

I prefer 1” tubes mostly, because they weigh less. Only real advantage of a 30mm tube is more adjustability, which I personally have never needed- especially on an air rifle. However, if you’ve got a break-barrel with severe barrel droop, it’s possible to run out of adjustment. Although it would...

Honestly, $400 is fairly cheap for a 5.5-25x50 scope. Some cloudiness at higher magnification and inability to hold zero(especially on a springer) should not really be a surprise. I’d probably be more surprised(and also ecstatic) if one of these new start-up scope companies that seem popular in...

I think a lot of the problems with springers come from the fact that serious, competitive centerfire shooters mostly consider the SWFA SS line to be about the only thing under $1,000 that will reliably track/return to zero/not break for any length of time, while we are using rifles that are much...

Probably not. If it’s the same tube/piston as a Walther Terrus, then there’s not much you can do to change anything. Fortunately, if it’s really a Walther Terrus tube/piston, they’re wonderfully efficient and the one I have is outstandingly accurate.

It probably seems a lot louder to you when you’re the one shooting it than it would seem to anyone else that is even a few feet away. Nobody can tell you what pellets your individual rifle will prefer, and it may even change depending upon the lot number. The gold standards to try are...

I’d still be interested in how fast your 34 shot the GTO’s. Especially if you could chrono any regular lead pellets along with them for comparison.

That might be a little too fast. I’ve read that they tend to do best under 860 FPS. I had a Hatsan 95 that did right at 900 with them, and you could see them corkscrewing in the scope as they flew down range. How fast does your 34 shoot them?

I think it’s pretty well universal that FTT’s are one of the best pellets in a .22 cal R9/HW95. And as mentioned, the one I gave to my dad also does OK with the cheap Crosman Premiers. Another pellet worth trying is the 11.75 grain GTO. I only have experience with this one individual rifle, but...

I’ve had a Hatsan 95 in .22 and have a D34 in .177. Honestly, the only thing the D34 offers over the Hatsan to me is that it’s a hair more accurate. The bluing and stock are shinier, but I’d rather they not be. Trigger is better, but the Quattro on the Hatsan is good enough for me. Open...

A Paul Watts tuned R9? I’d be happy with either one. Heck, let me know if you decide to sell one.

How fast does it shoot and with what pellet? Perhaps of interest, I recently received a 50 myself that gained ~15 FPS with JSB 7.87’s after I fitted one of Weihrauch’s OEM steel piston liners in it. Also, I picked up one of those JM stocks a month or two ago before I even had the rifle...

I have a Walther Terrus that’s significantly easier to cock than a D34, HW95, or HW50 and makes right at 12 FPE. It made a little more power before I replaced the steel top hat with a lightweight Delrin one. I don’t see how it could possibly get easier to cock and still make 12 FPE than that...

The liner being visible in the cocking slot seems pretty obvious to me. Also easily removed if you just stick a small flat screwdriver underneath it through the cocking slot and pry/pull it out. Also, adding a top hat to the stock spring and leaving the liner in results in a pretty good shot...

There’s a video where Paul Watts demonstrates tapping on the piston stem with a hammer repeatedly to remove the metal liner. I was able to do it with a small screwdriver 

A D34 doesn’t have a piston sleeve. They’re probably about the most simple springer to work on. Pull out the spring/guide, slide the new Vortek kit in its place with a thin coating of grease, reassemble.