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be gentle with the cocking levers of the LELYA there are springs inside that are almost impossible to find in the market . and another important detail , do not hold the levers closed with your hands while shooting ,also do not put slugs in the magazine and tilt the riffle upwards they will fell...

for me it was my RAW hm1000 with 13gr ZAN at 920fps with a standard 12 grove barrel. no groups but i headshoted multiple sparrows at 100 . by far the best riffle i ever owned. No POI shift , speed was always consistent and the most importand the first few shots was always on point no fps loss ...

the redwolf has just 3 fixed power settings,so almost zero adjustability unless you spend money and get an aftermarket board. but on a ,177 it shoots slugs like nothing else out there. the airwolf is very old and most likely when it starts needing parts you will have to park it forever

it is beyond that sir. they sell used airguns as new, they swap parts like regulators, at once they got mk1 impacts that didn't sell swapped the cocking block with the ones that wrote MkII and sold them to people as mkII's , no certified gunsmiths at all and those that say they are gunsmiths...

yeap whenever you point something at AGT, their answer is that you are the one to blame or they throw a silly excuse just to get on with it. we get it they have simple designs and guns that shoot ok out of the box, BUT they are heavy with noisy actions, a pain to tune and their support is...

99,9% of every kind of mystery boxes contain products that are not selling and they need to get rid of them, unless you are a youtuber/influencer reviewing them. its a trap and do not step on it

3,5x1,5 nbr70 but i would upgrade to nbr90

the average LW is 1:17,7 and their polygon barrels are not well known slug shooters

orings around the barrel are gone, try some nbr90 ,the machining in there is a bit rough on all of their models, so my best guess they where slightly damaged when they installed the barrel, when you remove the barrel,feel with your finger where the barrel screw threads are if you feel anything...

it will cost less to part exchange it with what you want, a bottle will cost 350, plenum ,bottle adapter , 2 regulators another 400+ , so my guess if you part exchange and pay 800 for a brand new sniper version , you will get a brand new gun with warranty huge 580cc bottle a larger barrel and...

i contacted them as well when i had the P3 about the regulator, i asked them why does my p3 have a number 6 regulator housing. the response was the regulator internals are the latest version. but they where not.

if air is coming through the hose. then the foster fitting(part that attaches to the gun) is not tight, remove it and put 2-3 layers of teflon tape. WHEN THERE IS NO AIR IN THE GUN DO NOT DRY FIRE. put your hammer wheel adjuster at minimum , cock the gun and throw a big burst of air to begin and...

if the plenum emptied when you removed the bottle: your bottle pressure was lower than your regulators set pressure, now if you dry fired the riffle with no pressure in the plenum then most certain you bent the valve rod. as peashooter said cock the gun and then try to see if it holds otherwise...

does your regulator gauge show any pressure, it sounds like there is no air in the plenum

now on your impact you have a 52mm long hammer spring. change it to a 56mm(part number 11500) and you are good to go.

the list on the thread is mostly not for The HM1000,i had to wait 1 month for them to arrive from ebay and then dissasembled the gun to find out the valve body orings are small. on my riffle are the top ones

for a 700mm liner, the carbon sleeve is 600mm in length it needs to be shorter for the liner lock and the rear brass part to be able to screw

i agree with ROB less places for leaks as well with th AR option

Regulator piston oring. but you should change all of your regulator orings when dissasemble

i was scrolling through LW website and i found this ,traditional riffling and IMO it shoots better with slugs than the polygonal