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...good point you make, don't do that again!...

Here's three very worn or even abused guns: FWB 150, Walther LG55, FWB 110...and examples of the same three in very nice condition, "gun case queens" I guess? The worn one's are more fun...:)

I don't think there even were lasers 75 years ago...they should have copied the airgun on the advert?

Diana 65 made up to look like an RT, and Beeman San Anselmo era 124D, note plastic/wood butt plates, early Beeman scope...both much more accurate than me!

True, but that's because in some nations rifled barrels were not permitted. In occupied Germany the rifling was forbidden for potential military use reasons. Actually some very early post war barrels are stamped "gez", indicating rifling.

...someone should correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the HW50 "V" was the improved model in that the barrel was rifled, the very first having been smooth bore. The smooth bore was because in the immediate post war period rifled barrels were too accurate, and so too similar a really frightening...

Agree, but I've found a few times on really older airguns (Walther LG55, Anschutz 250 specifically) that the new springs are longer than the older! I just wondered if a spring that had almost never been used, as on this FWB would need replace? Maybe the metal gets less "springy" with time?

Here is a FWB from later '60's that looks new condition wise, almost unfired, but the breech/piston seals are shot and lots of spring twang. Do I need to replace the spring as well as the seals?

Fantasy "Diana 65RT". The Diana 75RT is very rare, they never made a 65RT. The gun was really worn, no sights, no sleeve, no pad...now carbon fiber sleeve covers the rusty barrel, Chinese scope, fake wooden RT butt plate...and almost as accurate as a fixed barrel 75!

...so what? He has to tap the barrel down as on any other Weihrauch break barrel. The barrel does not flop down by itself?...

Maybe I'm completely missing something, but what is wrong with this airgun that makes it no longer serviceable and that needs to be addressed? It looks like a nice old HW35E that's been cared for and maybe even little used, from the late 60's-early '70's, early pattern one side safety, pre...

I don't know anything at all about this obviously high quality airgun that even has double set triggers (!), but I mention that it has assembly number "48" on both the tap load cylinder and the breech. This is because those two parts are hand fit before blueing so that they can be mated during...

Early 300S Match, Beeman collection, ? special order: earlier front sight, no sleeve, nice stock figure, earlier rear sight, about unfired?

Besides the Diana 50, the Falke 80/90, various Airsporters and the Anschutz LG54 are there any other underlever tap loaders you folks know of? The Falke seems a copy of the prewar design Airsporter; is the Diana 50 a copy of the Anschutz LG54, something else, or vice versa?

All three HW35 I have open if you tap the barrel, from the mid 60's, late 60's and recent production little used example. Maybe the barrel latch should not be considered a "breech lock"? Folks with brand new guns should chime in, see if this is normal?

...well OK then, these are all RHS, but here's three instead of just a pair: is three permitted?...:) HW55T(F), 124 JM T, Venom

I think that gun is a Daisy marketed? I think I can just make out the "D" on your picture? Someone told me that the Daisy gun were select for quality and accuracy, and the FWB was trying to build their reputation in the US, and that's why they are all (?) are sleeved...I dunno, maybe just nice...

This listing has been renewed

For hunting and since their mid power range airguns maybe a .177 is better, maybe a scope is better, maybe a scope fits better on a "K", and maybe a HW97 is more suitable (scope, 26mm, more powerful?)...whatever rocks your boat though! Some folks think open/diopter sight are more cute?

I've never done this, but maybe a good idea to shorten the spring a bit/put less pressure on the ball? I do that on the Mk2, makes it easier to slide the catch...yes, it's "staking", not peening... Yup, opening the cocking lever is the problem, not closing it...