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Good example. I had something similar happen once...a gun leaked down to the point where the hammer pushed the poppet open and sent a pellet into the sheetrock wall it was propped against. Granted, it didn’t leave at full velocity but I wouldn’t want anything biological in the vicinity of the...

Golf balls sending a pellet back at the shooter is a repeated theme over the years. One I didn’t anticipate was 10m shooting with a low power pistol (e.g. Beeman P17) with the target paper stapled to a plywood backer. Turns out a large percentage of the pellets come right back.

Just FYI, one of the $30 infrared chronographs will do fine for basic PCP tuning. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098XJLHGT For example, I have two more expensive chronographs but I grab the clamp-on 9 times out of 10.

Check that the hammer spring tension is adjusted properly. If it is set too heavy, the gun will expel more air than necessary and be loud as a result. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/average-fps.1296116/#post-1559114

Classic description of a failure of the fill port O-ring. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/pp700-fill-port-valve-keeps-springing-leaks-got-a-solution.1331317/post-1955023

30W silicone oil is a good weight for hand pumps. I can’t comment on the preferred type for lubricating slugs. As far as using silicone to.clean a barrel, I’ve never even heard of that before. Most people seem to use Hoppe’s #9, WD-40, or Ballistol.

If it’s a real basket case, look into electrolysis rust removal. The nice thing about it is it will remove all rust, including in the pitted areas, and the reaction ceases when the rust is gone (will not remove good steel). Therefore it is okay to submerge the entire barrel but if that scares...

Scott, I think you read it as the Superpoints. He’s referring to the H-Points:

I haven’t used the Super H-Points in a while but I remember my first airgun shot them well, and they were absolute wrecking balls on gray squirrels. I’ll never forget the sound because it was like a Nolan Ryan fastball hitting the catcher’s mit. Going by your screen name, I expect you will...

Casting another vote for the cheap clamp-on. I have multiple chronographs including an FX and a ProChrono but the little $30 clamp-on type is what I end up using 9 times out of 10. Pros Agrees well with my ProChrono. Either it’s accurate or they are both wrong by the same amount. Has its own...

The new pellets made in Spain are starting to appear. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/has-walmart-stopped-selling-crosman-22-hp.1332088/#post-1971580 https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/gphp-gamo-premier-hollow-points-daisy.1334158/#post-1982633

Mike detailed how to recognize it here: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/polish-an-lw-polygonal-barrel.1324826/post-1880370

If you get a LW barrel on a Daystate, RAW, etc. that doesn’t seem willing to deliver tight groups, check for the common potential machining defects at the crown, leade, and barrel port. But also be aware that most will have a tight region near the breech that you can feel distinctly when...

I agree, I think it's a compromise for an aesthetic. I just put calipers on mine to confirm the 20mm measurement, but I wanted to mention that I used the nearest fit SAE size in my impact socket kit, 13/16", and it worked perfectly. It took a considerable amount of torque and it broke free...

It doesn't have six flats?

The end caps on mine were tightened like grim death. An open end wrench would not break them free, and was succeeding only in damaging the flats. Switching to a socket made it a breeze.

In your original post you described pushing a pellet through it both ways, which I interpreted as fully through both ways. I was recommending to push a pellet into the breech end some distance and then back out again. Does it have the suspect marking? If so, the issue is near the breech...

The usual suspects would be a burr at the barrel port or a very tight choke. Try pushing a pellet partially in from each end, then back out to inspect.

Centering is achieved by moving the drill in an orbiting motion. If instead you try to hold it still, a bias will inevitably develop and produce a lopsided bevel.

If you do decide to replace it, look for one with a pin type check valve. The ball type, at least the one in the Avenger, isn’t the best for longevity.