Sheridan Sheridan Pre-C Series Repair Advice Requested

You guys are the best! When I got the check valve out found some slightly sticky, tar-like residue in the area. Also found what seemed like a granular black crud between that small brass washer and underside of the crown on the release valve. My thought it was some long deteriorated rubber "O" ring. Yet, that tar-like substance seems to only be in a few places, with the rest nice and clean. The pump tube was close to spotless so makes me wonder how it got into the air chamber. Will definitely give it the acetone/alcohol bath. I did note on the right side of the rear end cap with safety, where it meets the pump tube, a spot where someone did a bit of prying to ease it out. Perhaps I am not the first to get into the rifle since it left the factory (which might explain a lot). Lastly, attached pics of the completed valve remover/puller. Found one SAE eye bolt just large enough to re-thread to the metric size I needed and then cut a access into the loop. Got about 1/16 inch clearance between valve tool nut end and eyebolt, which swings up or down with no interference. Next time I pull a valve, it should come away with relative ease...

Continuing the Sheridan Saga, mixed up a few ounces of the acetone/alcohol (70%) brew and initially dumped it into the forward end of pump tube. Wanted to get any oil, etc. out of there first. Next poured it in from the breech end. Cleaned that end out with aluminum .30 cleaning rod and two kinds of patches (which leave no lint). Lastly, cleaned out the forward end of pump tube with a 12 Ga. CR set. The mixture worked great! It dissolved the crud and was picked up by the cleaning patches. Looking from the rear end of the pump tube, I could see the opening for the check valve brite & clean. Very pleased with result. Also have two observations. First is the washer which separates the check valve spring from the larger escape valve spring. The one in my rifle is solidly fixed and do not believe it is removable. Second is the presence (or not) of the forward lead valve seal. Was told these rifles only had the one seal (it came away with rear end of valve when I pulled it free). Will take another look tomorrow and probe with some pics to ascertain if it is there or not (and remove if the former)...

Where to begin...DonR & cvarcher: Referencing post #12, order of parts as they came away were:
Round brass valve retaining nut--lead seal--valve--then small brass washer--then the long escape valve (so washer was between small opening at forward end of valve body and held by rear side of escape valve & shaft). Then I saw and removed the large spring which engaged with the brass head of escape valve. With a few bonks the small check valve spring fell out. All which remained was the small check valve itself (residue near and behind the pump hole inhibited it until breaking free). No washer ever came out other than the small brass one. However, looking past the forward end of that brass insert in the air chamber, there is what appears to be a washer-like spacer about a inch or so from forward end. The small spring had to come out of the hole in it to the rear. It also has scuff markings on rear... approximating the O.D. of the larger end of the big spring, which would press against it. I tapped the cleaning rod against the washer (maybe "spacer" would be a better term) several times but it was solid.

Now, in looking for the forward valve seal, I don't think there ever was one. Reason is have seen photos of "picked" lead seals. Where that forward one should be, I used several pics, pointed rods, etc. If there were any degree of lead there, I should have seen impressions, curls, or perhaps lifted a piece from the rim. All it resulted in were small scratch/scuff markings. So, took cvarcher's advice and found I had a foot long wooden dowel measuring .760 in. Then a flat head, very coarse thread 5/8 in. long screw and two washers (.735 in. OD & .230 in. ID). Next I chucked up the dowel in the lathe, used a parting tool to cut the end plumb, drilled out the hole for screw and subsequently threaded it by waxing and turning the screw down completely.

Next was the search for a mild abrasive and discovered those small sanding discs used with DREMEL tools, etc. were .740 in. OD... perfectamundo! Then laid the discs on a soft pine block and placed a washer over the disc... lining it up. Used a 5/32 gasket punch and cut a hole in each disc. Lastly, took screw--disc--washer and fastened them to the end of the dowel. Slid perfectly into place and with little pressure cleaned that area where the forward seal should go. Result was no evidence of lead was found on the disc or anywhere else. The effort just removed any small scratches or scuffs at that juncture. In the first photo viewing down into the rear of the pump tube, you see the rear lip where the rear seal was and further down the forward one... now shiny. Think I am ready to put it all back together, soon as my replacement lead seal arrives (giving me two new ones).

Lastly, found the secret to seeing down into the pump tube. Forgot I had a couple high intensity lab lights (the one pictured came out of a estate sale dumpster). With a adjustable arm and lamp, can arc it over a table top aimed at open end of the pump tube and get a pretty good view right down to the check valve. BTW, photo of dowel head complete was taken after I used it. More to come...Stay Tuned!

Thanks for the schematic... Very Helpful as have been everyone's comments as well! Yesterday had time to look closely at the original components and attached two photos of the entire train... as they came out of the rifle and as I think they should be (?). This excludes any new/replacement parts. In the first photo, and from trace markings on it, the small brass washer was originally spaced as seen in the second photo. The small, domed head on exhaust valve is way too small to support that spring alone. Note large spring in photos below has a only a very slight taper to it and is fairly strong. However, the brass washer fits perfectly on top of the domed head. Wear markings indicate that is where it was until assembled incorrectly. In the first photo, it was placed behind the domed/rimmed head and this prevented the exhaust valve to seat properly (and cause of air leak out the exhaust port). The other issue was the singular lead seal, which (if only one was used) should have been at the forward end of valve body (photo 2). Also explains why it was not damaged as tapered valve locking nut seated on the rear face of valve as hole in seal was wider than it was. Undoubtedly, another error in reassembly. ON the other hand, because of this, rifle was put away for decades until sold at a garage sale... remaining in fine condition all the while.

OK, a few more things. The new replacement valve (seen in post #12, pics 2 & 3 Center ExV). has too small a pin head. The largest, NOS one is from a later C-Series rebuild kit. Was thinking I can make another brass washer to fix the small-pin one and make it like the original one or just install it as made. Probably could make a brass shim to press over the brass pin head as well to make it wider. Was a "no returns" on the parts I got, so don't want to waste them. Regarding the valve body, it has four exit ports in it, so orientation would not be a issue (?). Regarding part #347 (spacer washer for springs), this is what I see inside but does not move. Maybe it was intended that way, as I would not be using the small brass washer as well (unless it was meant to fit perfectly in the center hole of #347)... thoughts...