Huben Huben gk1 degassing advise

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Sam zakharia

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Jul 21, 2025
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So there a few opinions on the best way to degass the gk1, one of which is the loosening of the fill probe valve at the base of the reservoir, the other is the degass torx screw at the top of the action, and the Gregor way of removing the back plate the spring and plastic washer and actually shooting the gun with a towel behind the receiver to catch the piston and closing valve.
my concern is how safe is the latter? I’ve done it a few times and just recently noticed a nick on the front edge of the closing valve, I think it’s from the valve violently hitting the sear as it exits, anyone tried this method? Should not be doing this? According to the tube videos including the one by Gregor it is the best way to degass!
I bought a new valve and getting ready to replace it just wondering if I should be using a different method of degassing the gun. I do shoot it down to 100 bars before using this method, but the cylinder and valve shooting out of the gun backwards seems a bit violent.
the first recommendation might damage the o-ring and I only have one backup.
the second way is not recommended by anyone as it is risking irreperable damage to the fragile thread and tiny torx bolt.
 
Sam zakharia said:
So there a few opinions on the best way to degass the gk1, one of which is the loosening of the fill probe valve at the base of the reservoir, the other is the degass torx screw at the top of the action, and the Gregor way of removing the back plate the spring and plastic washer and actually shooting the gun with a towel behind the receiver to catch the piston and closing valve.
my concern is how safe is the latter? I’ve done it a few times and just recently noticed a nick on the front edge of the closing valve, I think it’s from the valve violently hitting the sear as it exits, anyone tried this method? Should not be doing this? According to the tube videos including the one by Gregor it is the best way to degass!
I bought a new valve and getting ready to replace it just wondering if I should be using a different method of degassing the gun. I do shoot it down to 100 bars before using this method, but the cylinder and valve shooting out of the gun backwards seems a bit violent.
the first recommendation might damage the o-ring and I only have one backup.
the second way is not recommended by anyone as it is risking irreperable damage to the fragile thread and tiny torx bolt.
Click to expand...
Don't use a towel. Just reassemble without main spring. Shoot it, it will degass. No damage, no overtravel.
 
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Sam zakharia said:
Yep I came across that option but with hims regulator in place that screw does not exist anymore
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I don’t have a Huma reg on my GK1 but I cant see how it would delete the brass screw for the indexing. You are confusing it with the silver screw on the bottom of the air tube.

This is the screw I’m referring to:

IMG_2436.jpeg
 
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Ah ha, 👍, great will try that one next time, looks like I’ll be degassing a few more times! Trying to get a good tune out of my huma regulator, so far not very happy with it, I miss the unregulated simpler tuning method🙂 I’m up to 195 on the reg and my gauge is still at 170 not sure which is the accurate one, trying to get about a full mag at 27fpe using 18grain jsb getting close but I think I need to raise the reg pressure a bit more
 
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Sam zakharia said:
Ah ha, 👍, great will try that one next time, looks like I’ll be degassing a few more times! Trying to get a good tune out of my huma regulator, so far not very happy with it, I miss the unregulated simpler tuning method🙂 I’m up to 195 on the reg and my gauge is still at 170 not sure which is the accurate one, trying to get about a full mag at 27fpe using 18grain jsb getting close but I think I need to raise the reg pressure a bit more
Click to expand...
Sam, I think you will find that there is no advantage in accuracy with a regulator in a pistol at pistol distances. If you find there is, please get back to the forum and tell us. I consistently shoot 1" or better groups with my GK1s at 25 meters, 40FPE for a whole magazine. All a regulator does is consume air tube volume limiting consistent shot count. Your call.
 
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steve-l said:
Sam, I think you will find that there is no advantage in accuracy with a regulator in a pistol at pistol distances. If you find there is, please get back to the forum and tell us. I consistently shoot 1" or better groups with my GK1s at 25 meters, 40FPE for a whole magazine. All a regulator does is consume air tube volume limiting consistent shot count. Your call.
Click to expand...


Steve,

we all know your opinion on PCP pistols, and how they ought to be shot, and "scoped", etc.

I respect that, Steve! It's a good opinion, especially if somoene comes from firearms. And you're a very good pistol shooter.



🔆 However...
...sometimes there are people out there who like to do things less traditionally — in this case I suspect Sam wants to shoot beyond "traditional pistol ranges." And that's when a regulator can make a difference. 😊

We're all here to have fun — whether inside the bounds of some tradition — or outside of those bounds.... 👍🏼

Cheers,

Matthias
 
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JungleShooter said:
Steve,

we all know your opinion on PCP pistols, and how they ought to be shot, and "scoped", etc.

I respect that, Steve! It's a good opinion, especially if somoene comes from firearms. And you're a very good pistol shooter.



🔆 However...
...sometimes there are people out there who like to do things less traditionally — in this case I suspect Sam wants to shoot beyond "traditional pistol ranges." And that's when a regulator can make a difference. 😊

We're all here to have fun — whether inside the bounds of some tradition — or outside of those bounds.... 👍🏼

Cheers,

Matthias
Click to expand...
You are absolutely correct. There is an up side and a down side to most things and regulators in air pistols is just another example. In the end, it is a trade off. The correct balance is the shooter's decision. How often in the life time of that pistol will be used for targets greater than say 50 meters in relation to targets at shorter distances?
 
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Pale_Rider said:
There’s another option: Underneath the mag loader is a brass screw. Turn it counter clockwise slowly until it starts to release air. Only downside is you may damage the o-ring and have to replace it. IMO I’d rather do this than shooting the valve out the back or touch the degas screw on top of the block.
Click to expand...
This is the method I use, never have had any issue with the oring.
 
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