It’s heavy like the Invader. Really sux for semi-auto. It’s not nearly as bad in the full auto mode
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Hatsan Hatsan Blitz 777 (Refined Semi/Full Auto Beast) w/ 180 shots per fill (Video Review)
- Thread starter kaylaindy
- Start date
I bought this rifle a month ago.
Had nothing but problems with it.
Took it appart and gave it a full clean and tuned the action.
Runs like a dream now.
But fair warning. If you are not the technical type just return it and hope they send you a better one.
And yes, its tunable. You could even slow down the rate of fire if you wanted to. It runs on a gas operated piston that pushes a rod to a "gear box" to cycle it. Simply change the gear ratio with some custom gears if you wanted to.
And fear warning. The screws that hold the covers in place on both sides of the gun are made of some kind of black butter or something. Terrible quality and stripped clean with little effort
I replaced them when Stainless steal allen key screws right away.
My 777 .30 is now fully tuned to perfection and spits out fx hybrid slugs at 1050 fps
If you think this cant be done Please dont even comment on this. Because it can be done.
Had nothing but problems with it.
Took it appart and gave it a full clean and tuned the action.
Runs like a dream now.
But fair warning. If you are not the technical type just return it and hope they send you a better one.
And yes, its tunable. You could even slow down the rate of fire if you wanted to. It runs on a gas operated piston that pushes a rod to a "gear box" to cycle it. Simply change the gear ratio with some custom gears if you wanted to.
And fear warning. The screws that hold the covers in place on both sides of the gun are made of some kind of black butter or something. Terrible quality and stripped clean with little effort
I replaced them when Stainless steal allen key screws right away.
My 777 .30 is now fully tuned to perfection and spits out fx hybrid slugs at 1050 fps
If you think this cant be done Please dont even comment on this. Because it can be done.
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You can definitely tune it.
It has allot of actions that can be adjusted.
Its just not for beginners or has any quick adjust ways. You have to understand the engineering behind it. And its basically AK47 that has a excess air plunger that runs a gear box to cycle the gun. Lots of play and "overgassed".
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I’d be interested in exactly what you adjusted and how you came to the conclusion what part you needed to adjust. There’s no parts diagram that I know of. Mine won’t cycle in full auto even though semi-auto works just fine
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Sounds like your barrel O-ring is worn.
Check the little rubber O-ring thats seats the bolt prod.
Replace it with a original from hatsan from www.aurgunseurope.com or just get a generic 7x1.75.
-10.5
Thats 7mm inner diameter, 1.75mm thickness and a other diameter of 10.5mm. incase of a .30 cal (.7.62)
Buy a little extra they are cheap.
You dont have to remove the barrel to get to the O-rings. Simply take a small flat screwdriver or something and fish it out. To put it a new one simply get one part into the grove, use the hexagon shape of the back of allan key and press and lead the rest into the grove by making s little circle (this needs some practise)
If this doesnt work remove the side plate on the right side (watch out those little screws are easy to strip. Correct size screwdriver and pressure are needed)
Now you will see a little plate that pivots. When you remove the cover it most likely Schoots or falls out a little because the hole in the cover holds the Pivot point in place. Clean it. And oil it and make sure you place it back so that the flat side of the pivoting plate is facing down to the gun and the little silver pushrod to the barrel end of the gun is sandwished between the pivot plate and the bolt. (Theres only one way for it to fit anyway).
Now place the cover back and gently tighten the soft metal screws. Rack the bolt up and down and feel if its smooth. Flip the full auto switch a couple times and shoot it.
Let me know what happens
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I did find an exploded parts view, but I’m still clueless on what could cause my issue. The diagram doesn’t list the actual parts names
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This is for the original blitz. Good maintenance video. It covers the full auto gears and lubrication. I would guess most of the 777 is very similar to the original
There are other videos that cover hammer spring adjustment. Parts diagrams are on HatsanUSA website
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Yes this is a good video that shows the way it works. The parts diagram om hatsanUSA says its for the 777 but its the 2th gen. There are also parts missing on the exploded view. And to make matters worse. It looks like its not even the .30 but the .22 or .25 version.
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Watched the videos, thnx for posting it. Spent almost 8 hours today trying to fix it. At best I got a little improvement. It’ll cycle 6-8 rounds in full auto now before hanging instead of every 2 rounds. Cleaned all the grease out and used engine oil. Made no difference. Played with the bolt spring tension till I managed to get it to its current state. What really ticks me off though is this is a new gun. Maybe 600 rounds now through it. I sent it in to Hatsan twice and I don’t believe they even inspected the internals. 1 pin is sheared in half and at least two others including a major pin that runs vertically from the bolt to hammer mechanism is very clearly bent and causing a lot of additional resistance during the cycle. I think that is going to be my root cause though can’t say for sure
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Nice it good to see it can be fixed up. On the stainless just be sure to lube them with some moly if there going into aluminum as stainless in aluminum causes corrosion. I learned that here just recently as I put the same screws in my scope rings , so I just used a little moly EP GREASE on them got a can at auto zone for $7.99. , but yeah that's great you did that work on it. I whish you had a video on it that would be awesome. OV
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I also bought the Blitz 777 .30 cal one month ago. Shot about 600 rounds with it and had lots of fun with it. Love it's accuracy. Mostly shooting semi-auto (80% of the time) but damn, that full auto is impressive. Designed and 3D printed my own moderator for it just for the looks (empty can) but it does make it a little quieter and it still works full auto.
Now yesterday I saw a first sign of trouble. Though the gun is still working nicely, I noticed that on the right side, the lid covering the action, is bulging up. Closer inspection revealed that the pin that is seated in this lid, is getting hammered forward. It's the pin around which the sear? (the metal plate that gets pushed down when the bolt goes forward and holds the hammer back while bolt is to the rear) rotates. The pin has already damaged the hole it sits in. Anyone else has had this problem? I guess it would be easy to fix with a new cover plate, but why is it happening in the first place (other then that the cover plate seems to be made from a very soft material)
Now yesterday I saw a first sign of trouble. Though the gun is still working nicely, I noticed that on the right side, the lid covering the action, is bulging up. Closer inspection revealed that the pin that is seated in this lid, is getting hammered forward. It's the pin around which the sear? (the metal plate that gets pushed down when the bolt goes forward and holds the hammer back while bolt is to the rear) rotates. The pin has already damaged the hole it sits in. Anyone else has had this problem? I guess it would be easy to fix with a new cover plate, but why is it happening in the first place (other then that the cover plate seems to be made from a very soft material)
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Yep. I told Hatsan I needed a new pin. I also have a pin that holds the trigger assembly sheared in half, and main bolt pin bent. I sent my gun in twice when it would no longer cycle in full auto, and both times they claimed there was nothing wrong with it when they very clearly never took it apart and inspected any of it, so I was forced to do it myself to find the problems
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I'd rather not send my gun in. If they just send me a new cover plate and pin, I'll fix it myself. If they can't do that, then I guess I'll have to make myself a new cover plate out of some decent steel.
For now my gun still cycles and fires both in semi- and full auto, but sooner or later that pin is gonna get hammered out of place enough to make it jam.
I see on the exploded drawings that in the old Blitz, that cover plate was held in place with 2 screws. In my 777 it is held by 3 screws, with the extra screw being near that pin. Makes me wonder is this is a known problem of the Blitz that Hatsan tried to fix with an extra screw in the 777?
For now my gun still cycles and fires both in semi- and full auto, but sooner or later that pin is gonna get hammered out of place enough to make it jam.
I see on the exploded drawings that in the old Blitz, that cover plate was held in place with 2 screws. In my 777 it is held by 3 screws, with the extra screw being near that pin. Makes me wonder is this is a known problem of the Blitz that Hatsan tried to fix with an extra screw in the 777?
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Not sure, but I think you might find after a little while that eventually the cycle will fail and at least for me, the vertical pin that runs from the bolt through handle and cocking mechanism is getting damaged during use and causing excessive friction during the cycle. I’m beginning to think the parts you and I have found will be regular replacement items
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Mine only had 660 fps without mods with 44.75gr pellets. I now have turned the hammer spring 1 turn out and getting 700 fps with .30 cal jsb exact 44.75gr. What else did you do to yours? Drill out barrel port and align it better? Polish bolt probe? Longer valve pin?
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There are actually two adjustments to optimize power. The outer ring which I assume is the one you adjusted seems to change bolt tension. There is an inner screw that changes how much air gets used. Fair warning though, took me hours to find a good combination between the two as both can affect how far the bolt can travel, how much tension is on the hammer and how much air is provided to the system.
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I turned the one for which you have to stick an allen key into the hammer spring and turned it CCW 1 complete turn (360 degrees) and got about 40 fps more at 250 bar bottle pressure and with 44.75gr pellets.
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ok gotcha. That seems to primarily affect how much air is provided. The outer screw is the one you see when first pull the stock off and has a set screw to hold it in place. You can try to increase tension on the spring a bit by turning it clockwise half to full turn. Again, this might be a bit of trial/error to get optimal. At least it was for me.
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