Have the same issue with my trigger and the small hole at front of gun to adjust the travel does not do a thing for trigger
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RTI Mora .357 issues
- Thread starter Scott.t
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That screw in front is to adjust the position of the trigger. If you want to make the first stage longer or shorter, you need to screw in or out the trigger connecting rod.
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According to the diagram on the website that is to adjust the trigger travel of first stage which in my mind travel how you lengthen the pull or make the trigger longer or shorter as you stated. There is nothing in the manual about adjusting the connecting rod I only found that after my entire linkage came apart because the little tiny rod that it connects too somehow fell out and it took a magnifying glass and tweezers to get it back in
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Yes, you are right, we need to expand that part in the manual. You can adjust the travel with that screw, but you will also change the "starting" position of the trigger. If you want to keep the location of the trigger while changing the 1st stage, you have to adjust the connecting rod. If you take off the right cover plate it should be easier to understand what is happening when you adjust those things.
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I have a new Mora in 25 cal which I purchased from Talon. Two questions. My shroud, at the rearmost end, is fitted to the clamping collet with four screws to secure it to the barrel. I have read the technique to put the shroud into compression but this end piece has two O-rings &, as I tighten the other end cap, the second O-ring gets squeezed out from the shroud. I don’t know what purpose the second O-ring serves but it is preventing much compression being applied to tension the barrel. The second question is the dwell adj w/the perforated holes. Is the adj procedure to loosen the large, thin locking nut, then turn the perforated tube or do I insert a hex wrench to turn the internal screw inside the perforated tube which seems to turn freely at the moment?
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Hi,
it was never meant to tension the barrel using that technique... It just has to be tight in order to not get any air blast to the face. But with the new clamp (which you have), it has an oring which makes sure you don't get air blasted. The front cap is on there very tight. So with the new clamp you don't have to unscrew the front cap in order to take the shroud off, but you can take off that second oring which you mentioned and take the shroud off from the rear (of course you need to take the whole barrel out of the gun first). So that second oring serves like a C clamp to lock the shroud on there.
That large thin nut disassambled whole valve assembly. In order to adjust dwell time, you have to move that part which you said moves freely, so either by using a hex tool which you insert in the middle or something smaller which you put in thru the sides holes and then turn that knob.
it was never meant to tension the barrel using that technique... It just has to be tight in order to not get any air blast to the face. But with the new clamp (which you have), it has an oring which makes sure you don't get air blasted. The front cap is on there very tight. So with the new clamp you don't have to unscrew the front cap in order to take the shroud off, but you can take off that second oring which you mentioned and take the shroud off from the rear (of course you need to take the whole barrel out of the gun first). So that second oring serves like a C clamp to lock the shroud on there.
That large thin nut disassambled whole valve assembly. In order to adjust dwell time, you have to move that part which you said moves freely, so either by using a hex tool which you insert in the middle or something smaller which you put in thru the sides holes and then turn that knob.
Upvote 0