RTI .25 Mora and it’s first range trip

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jps2486 said:
Oh, please accept my apology. I looked at the OP's post and saw that the targets were shot at 100 yards. For some reason, I thought it was 50. My bad:confused:
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At 50Y it shoots one ragged hole. I am trying to tune this rifle for 100Y. I have not shot it for accuracy (score) yet, only groups for now, working on only a tune.
 
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I got the shroud end cap off today. Heated it with a heat gun, inserted two punches, in opposing holes and the cap unscrewed VERY hard. There was no LocTite on the threads.

While I had the barrel off, I pushed a pellet through it and found a tight spot where the rear shroud end was clamped to the barrel. I loosened the clamp bolts, pushed another pellet through and there was still a tight spot. I was able to polish the tight spot out. Then I torqued the clamp down to 10” pounds. Pushed another pellet through and it was nice and smooth.
 
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igolfat8 said:
I got the shroud end cap off today. Heated it with a heat gun, inserted two punches, in opposing holes and the cap unscrewed VERY hard. There was no LocTite on the threads.

While I had the barrel off, I pushed a pellet through it and found a tight spot where the rear shroud end was clamped to the barrel. I loosened the clamp bolts, pushed another pellet through and there was still a tight spot. I was able to polish the tight spot out. Then I torqued the clamp down to 10” pounds. Pushed another pellet through and it was nice and smooth.
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Glad you got it off. I need to try mine at some point.
 
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igolfat8 said:
I got the shroud end cap off today. Heated it with a heat gun, inserted two punches, in opposing holes and the cap unscrewed VERY hard. There was no LocTite on the threads.

While I had the barrel off, I pushed a pellet through it and found a tight spot where the rear shroud end was clamped to the barrel. I loosened the clamp bolts, pushed another pellet through and there was still a tight spot. I was able to polish the tight spot out. Then I torqued the clamp down to 10” pounds. Pushed another pellet through and it was nice and smooth.
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So the heat didn’t really do anything and the solution was more force? Or did the heat help anyway?
 
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igolfat8 said:
I do not think heat really helped although i was not able to get it to budge before without heat, so??? I had two punches, stuck in opposing holes in the end cap, then twisted as hard as I could and the cap finally began to move. It was EXTREMELY tight and I am not sure why it needed to be that tight?
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Ok, thanks! Will give it a try with a little more force then and put heat to it as well if that doesn’t work just for the psychological factor I guess :)
 
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igolfat8 said:
I do not think heat really helped although i was not able to get it to budge before without heat, so??? I had two punches, stuck in opposing holes in the end cap, then twisted as hard as I could and the cap finally began to move. It was EXTREMELY tight and I am not sure why it needed to be that tight?
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Finally got the shroud of as well… with what I would call brute force. Put a long 6mm allen key in there, clamped the rifle between my legs and went at it… and the metal of the end cap actually scratched quite a bit and got indentations from the Allen key. Man was that thing tight. HOWEVER, it basically unscrewed the baffles from the barrel instead of the cap from the shroud?! Meaning when I pulled the shroud of the baffles etc went with it and only barrel was left on the gun. Was it the same for you? Videos I saw are with the “in shroud mod” still on the barrel…
 
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igolfat8 said:
I was able to unscrew the end cap from the baffles on mine. I am borrowing a .30 now and I unscrewed his but the baffle came unscrewed from the barrel and the baffle stayed with the shroud and end cap which I think is what you are describing?
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Yep that’s exactly what happened… if I ever take it off again I’ll see whether I can get the end cap loose but I don’t see how with the baffles being attached to the barrel…
 
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jps2486 said:
I'm not trying to stir the pot here. Your rifle is shooting fairly well, but I think you are not getting optimum accuracy from it. We all are being led to believe that faster is better, and IMO, that's not so with pellets because they are stabilized not by spin, but aerodynamically. When they approach Mach 1 (1100 fps), the air begins to develop shock waves around the airflow path of the pellets. I shoot 100 yd with my M3 and it really likes AEA 45 gr pellets better than JSB. Mine it tuned to shoot them at 890 fps. Another fellow shooter shoots Zan 56 gr pellets which work well at 860 fps. We shoot in very windy conditions. I'm just guessing, but I still would try to shoot pellets at less than 900 fps in your rifle to see if your accuracy improves. I have a 25 cal Wildcat MK3 shooting 25.4 gr pellets extremely well at 100 yd at a speed of 890 fps.
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22.07 @ 1185, theres 10 in that hole, at 50 yards Epic Two. after hearing guys like you, preach this sermon for years my mind was blown. The gun is tuned for 40g javelins, pushing them 940ish. I tried the pellets just for fun and couldn't believe it. CRACK!!

7FB5E3CD-2F5B-4494-8EBA-DD2EF34591B1.jpeg
 
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igolfat8 said:
I do not think heat really helped although i was not able to get it to budge before without heat, so??? I had two punches, stuck in opposing holes in the end cap, then twisted as hard as I could and the cap finally began to move. It was EXTREMELY tight and I am not sure why it needed to be that tight?
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your 1:17 is probably now a 1:50 😂😂
 
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