I finally got some video of my oil cooler mod I did on my Tuxing compressor. It could have been a bolt on modification, but I decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the cover and add a ⅜"x⅛" bulkhead fitting to be sure all the oil gets circulated, and to use as a power drain when changing the oil. I ended up drilling and tapping the drain plug to ⅛" NPT and using it as a sight tube that connects into the vent cap. I removed the sight glass, which is a ½" NPT thread, bushed it down to ⅛" NPT, and used it for the return line. I had to bore out the drain hole because it was stripped out. That ⅛" NPT takes up every bit of space possible. If it wouldn't have worked out, before ordering a new cover, I would have JB welded it shut and drilled another BH fitting into the bottom of the cover, or into the side of it for the return line and kept the sight glass original.
At first, I was going to air cool the oil and I made an aluminum oil line with hundreds of aluminum fins pressed onto the od of the aluminum tubing. It worked, but it looked goofy as hell, so I decided to go with the radiator style oil cooler instead.
While looking through my Amazon options, I came across water cooled oil coolers for cars, but they usually mate up to the engine block and the oil filter screws into it. Finally, I came across some remote liquid coolers where the coolant and the oil are both piped to the cooler/exchanger.
The one I decided on was a transmission oil cooler for a 2012-22 Mitsubishi Outlander Eclipse. I had to reconfigure the stubouts a little to get them all facing in the same direction.
I'm pumping the oil with a cheap low pressure fuel pump and a 110vac to12vdc transformer.
All said and done, the oil cooler was about $35. The pump was about $10-$15. I already had the transformer and most of the little brass fittings. I made the rest of the fittings but the bulkhead fitting I made ended up leaking, so I bought a proper BH fitting. I think it was 2 for $10-$12.
Now I run 3 different water pumps. One for each head and one for the oil cooler and this thing runs cooler than Fonzi in blizzard. One thing you can do to keep your coolant cool is to let it drop back into the bucket from a foot or so higher than the bucket. That little bit of hang time will cool the water off a lot. It's like blowing on your soup
At first, I was going to air cool the oil and I made an aluminum oil line with hundreds of aluminum fins pressed onto the od of the aluminum tubing. It worked, but it looked goofy as hell, so I decided to go with the radiator style oil cooler instead.
While looking through my Amazon options, I came across water cooled oil coolers for cars, but they usually mate up to the engine block and the oil filter screws into it. Finally, I came across some remote liquid coolers where the coolant and the oil are both piped to the cooler/exchanger.
The one I decided on was a transmission oil cooler for a 2012-22 Mitsubishi Outlander Eclipse. I had to reconfigure the stubouts a little to get them all facing in the same direction.
All said and done, the oil cooler was about $35. The pump was about $10-$15. I already had the transformer and most of the little brass fittings. I made the rest of the fittings but the bulkhead fitting I made ended up leaking, so I bought a proper BH fitting. I think it was 2 for $10-$12.
Now I run 3 different water pumps. One for each head and one for the oil cooler and this thing runs cooler than Fonzi in blizzard. One thing you can do to keep your coolant cool is to let it drop back into the bucket from a foot or so higher than the bucket. That little bit of hang time will cool the water off a lot. It's like blowing on your soup
