Yong heng compressor not filling

I just read the thread about the reset button. I’ve got the cover off now and have the reset hanging for now.
Someone else wrote about having fill issues . First stage air line is hot to the touch , the other two lines are cool. They got hot when I ran it the first two or three times.
Is the capacitor setting under the windings? I see there is a threaded rod coming out of one end but is not attached to anything, just kinda floating around in the bottom housing.
Thanks for the suggestions and help.

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I just read the thread about the reset button. I’ve got the cover off now and have the reset hanging for now.
Someone else wrote about having fill issues . First stage air line is hot to the touch , the other two lines are cool. They got hot when I ran it the first two or three times.
Is the capacitor setting under the windings? I see there is a threaded rod coming out of one end but is not attached to anything, just kinda floating around in the bottom housing.
Thanks for the suggestions and help.

View attachment 567562

I think the air line heat is normal. Thats the cap, theres no room in the case to screw it on top of motor and glue wont stick to the plastic. Can wrap it in paper tape and glue it or wedge something in that wont melt. If it doesnt move or rattle then id just leave it alone.
 
No , it moves! I had some fiberglass insulation and stuffed it in on both ends. It won’t move now!
I also wrapped electrical tape around the reset body. I may try it back it place just to see if it happens again. I’ll move it totally if it does. Seen a link to a more reliable reset button on here. I’ve got it save in my cart on Amazon just in case.
Thanks again!
Grady
 
Ordering anything from Yong heng is out of the question for now. Parts are reasonable enough but for any part they want $80.00 shipping.

Yes the heat is normal. The problem is only one of the three lines gets hot now. The other two remain cool , not even warm .
Oil leaking out, sounds like used compressor, mine shipped empty. All those SS airlines will fry you when working right, lol, arm burns noted as a "badge of honor" from users.
You should have gotten a bag of spares which includes the o rings for the check valves. The small line on top, the HP out line, leads to the check valve that was leaking on mine, see the exploded view.
Be very careful not to cross thread any of the fittings and recheck all with pump off..if you still have an air bottle with pressure attached for leak down checks.

Parts could get interesting in the next year from China, no?
 
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Oil leaking out, sounds like used compressor, mine shipped empty. All those SS airlines will fry you when working right, lol, arm burns noted as a "badge of honor" from users.
You should have gotten a bag of spares which includes the o rings for the check valves. The small line on top, the HP out line, leads to the check valve that was leaking on mine, see the exploded view.
Be very careful not to cross thread any of the fittings and recheck all with pump off..if you still have an air bottle with pressure attached for leak down checks.

Parts could get interesting in the next year from China, no?
I’ve taken all three lines off , double checking for any debris.
Mine has a one way check valve in the very top , the HP side. I also too the fill tube off of the HP block, there in not a one way check valve there.
Took the cover off, removed the reset switch from the back housing. Held it in my hand and ran the compressor while airing up my tank. It ran without cutting off. Let the reset dangle and it shut down. Definitely the reset making it stop. So that will get replaced with the one from Amazon.
All three lines are hot now! The bottom one from the low pressure side is the hottest, the others are hot but not like the bottom one.
It‘s filling my tank up but very slow.
 
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I’ve taken all three lines off , double checking for any debris.
Mine has a one way check valve in the very top , the HP side. I also too the fill tube off of the HP block, there in not a one way check valve there.
Took the cover off, removed the reset switch from the back housing. Held it in my hand and ran the compressor while airing up my tank. It ran without cutting off. Let the reset dangle and it shut down. Definitely the reset making it stop. So that will get replaced with the one from Amazon.
All three lines are hot now! The bottom one from the low pressure side is the hottest, the others are hot but not like the bottom one.
It‘s filling my tank up but very slow.
Heat! I use old cheap window box fan from back to front, just like the internal fan, and several cool down stops for that hot running motor. I have it on a 30 amp 120 vac circuit for no voltage sag. What users do with oil and water cooling is all over the map, LOL. I'm cursed with hot garage in the south. Enjoy..ohh yeah, the last 1000 to 500 psi can be slower but I'm just a 3k SCUBA tank guy.
 
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Heat! I use old cheap window box fan from back to front, just like the internal fan, and several cool down stops for that hot running motor. I have it on a 30 amp 120 vac circuit for no voltage sag. What users do with oil and water cooling is all over the map, LOL. I'm cursed with hot garage in the south. Enjoy
I got the compressor to stop shutting itself down by the advice found here. It still is having problems though. Initially it got to 4100psi and would not fill my tank past that. Yesterday it got to 3700 ish and under load I watched the compressor gage fall from 3700 down to 3500 psi.
Even though I bought this from VEVOR , customer service is Yong Heng in China. I updated them with yesterday’s information.
They messaged me saying they are trying to work out a solution and I’d hear back in 48 hours.
I gave them the solution! Replace it with a NEW unit or refund the money I paid for the paperweight that I currently have.
I did give them several reasons why I believe this compressor was a return and somehow got shipped out to me.
I will give an update when I hear back from them.
 
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"Already tried the soap and nothing happened"
Exactly what was your procedure while leak detecting? Every single fitting, burst disc, drain valves, cylinder screws, HP & LP tubing fittings, etc. have to be checked with leak detector. If you've done that (the correct way) & aren't finding a leak it's likely piston rings or internal problems. There are a plethora of YH maintenance & repair videos on YouTube to help.
Would you agree that, given the symptom that pressure is dropping without the compressor running, that piston rings & associated components cannot be the problem? The piston rings, pistons, etc., are not resposible for holding outlet pressure. Ditto the low-pressure check valves.

IMO, if high pressure air is leaking, it has to be in, or after the high pressure outlet check valve, correct?
 
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Royal Purple, but next oil I want to get something else and hopefully better, no available for pickup I shall internet order.
Today removed the oil and pan again, and with some tinkering finally managed to pull out that crank piece. I removed both the damaged and from my spare YH as well (this pic below) where I am scavenging parts in emergency.

View attachment 463680

I have two pistons refurbished but both piston rods damaged/seized and can't re-use, need to wait for a new full kit to arrive ETA next week.
Good news that all three of my scba tanks still about 250 bars, I have a good chance to survive couple weeks.
Apologies if I missed the post that shows the connecting rod's dipper/splash rod. I've had (5) Yong Hengs and clones, and one of the main reasons for giving up on them was the frequency of failures, particularly the dipper/splash rod breaking off. I have ordered connecting rods from a number of sources, some of which seemed to be even poorer quality.

In my experience, the bell crank can often be cleaned up and pressed back into service. When inspecting the new connecting rod, you may wish to consider the oil hole size and whether it is a clear of flashings as desireable.
 
Would you agree that, given the symptom that pressure is dropping without the compressor running, that piston rings & associated components cannot be the problem? The piston rings, pistons, etc., are not resposible for holding outlet pressure. Ditto the low-pressure check valves.

IMO, if high pressure air is leaking, it has to be in, or after the high pressure outlet check valve, correct?
Agreed about the pressure leaking but OP also said he can't fill past 4K. The leak is probably check valve, dowty seal, foster o-ring, etc. failure. The 4K max is probably internal.
 
I have a compressor and before I changed my oil it used to fill my pcp all the way up to 4500 psi and after I made the oil change it takes forever to fill and it fills only to 4000 psi if I’m lucky
Can you include picture of your oil level window? Oil should NOT be above top of red dot! It's hard to know exactly what's wrong as your description lacks much detail. Has its behavior changed in any other way? Sound the same? Smell the same? Have you checked the bonded washer (Dowty seal) on top of HP cylinder, tightened or checked ALL fittings & screws, foster fitting o-rings, etc.?
Already tried the soap and nothing happened, and something I’ve notice is that if I charge my pcp and leave it without releasing the pressure on the line it starts dropping by it self slowly but I can’t find the leak.
Which gauge is indicating drop in pressure? Compressor gauge? You're not very SPECIFIC when explaining stuff. Makes helping more difficult.
 
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Can you include picture of your oil level window? Oil should NOT be above top of red dot! It's hard to know exactly what's wrong as your description lacks much detail. Has its behavior changed in any other way? Sound the same? Smell the same? Have you checked the bonded washer (Dowty seal) on top of HP cylinder, tightened or checked ALL fittings & screws, foster fitting o-rings, etc.?

Which gauge is indicating drop in pressure? Compressor gauge? You're not very SPECIFIC when explaining stuff. Makes helping more difficult.
In my case I use a specific verified 5k gauge "Meanlin" that simply QDs to end of fill chain. I have had pressure hold for solid 15 minutes, pump off, to verify my work, the YH auto shut off gauge and all fittings, and filters that stop at and includes the HP check valve. I use the YH auto shut off as a fail safe but normally open bleed valve, at finish, as air tank has own check valve.
I'm on my second YH auto shut off gauge, $24, as needle would not zero on the first, 2 years ago.

Very slow final fill pressure should be top HP rings and or slow leak on fill chain.

I'm definitely anal as I worked offshore with HP hydraulics using 25k well test gear for our ROVs' :)
 
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Apologies if I missed the post that shows the connecting rod's dipper/splash rod. I've had (5) Yong Hengs and clones, and one of the main reasons for giving up on them was the frequency of failures, particularly the dipper/splash rod breaking off. I have ordered connecting rods from a number of sources, some of which seemed to be even poorer quality.

In my experience, the bell crank can often be cleaned up and pressed back into service. When inspecting the new connecting rod, you may wish to consider the oil hole size and whether it is a clear of flashings as desireable.
After 5... I would have given up after 2nd one! Their mass production is cheap but unlicensed clones or whatever have me leary of ordering spares. That said, my old paint is getting ready for the spare seals as 3800 to 4500 is getting slower on my 4.5k pony tank compared to first two years.

Dive shop is 3 miles away..dropping off tank and the higher cost of hydrostatic testing makes me hug my old springer.
 
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After 5... I would have given up after 2nd one! Their mass production is cheap but unlicensed clones or whatever have me leary of ordering spares. That said, my old paint is getting ready for the spare seals as 3800 to 4500 is getting slower on my 4.5k pony tank compared to first two years.

Dive shop is 3 miles away..dropping off tank and the higher cost of hydrostatic testing makes me hug my old springer.
Nothing I disagree with in your reply.

Perhaps the bottom line is that none of this is rationally justifiable?

I credit that there is a value that one should apply to springer versus PCP, in so many categories, but these are highly subjective. I am grateful for people such as yourself who provide their reasons for a choice or peference.


The "I hadn't thought of that" or "I hadn't considered it in that way" are some of the most valuable and interesting aspects of hobbies, in my experience.

The reasons that I got into PCP, and all the complexities is kind of opposite to what I infer from your experience. I disliked cocking and single loading pellets that is not shared by the friend with whom I shoot every week. Of course he's wrong, but he's mistakenly convinced that I am wrong. ;-)

Thank-you for the insights.