You should not need to filter air from you bottle. It should be dry. If it isn't, you are damaging your bottle (the liner is aluminum).
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Gx filter is here
- Thread starter 1900colt
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If you fill tanks then I suggest to rig the filter so it's above the compressor. I have my non GX filter rigged on a stand so the GX hose runs up to the filter inlet to promote any condensate to drain back to the compressor's water trap. I feel that it limits the amount of moisture that goes into the filter. Then tank is above the filter outlet.
For gun fills I think sticking the filter on the compressor is probably fine, but note GX's recommendation to not put the magnets next to the power supplies (for the CS3-I and CS4-I).
For gun fills I think sticking the filter on the compressor is probably fine, but note GX's recommendation to not put the magnets next to the power supplies (for the CS3-I and CS4-I).
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I haven't acutally tested it yet, was just trying to see where I could stick the filter. I don't like where it is currently. I also read about not putting the magnets on the case next to the inverter. Probably will build a little cart for the compressor with the compressor on the bottom and the filter above it. I will say the filter feels really well built.
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Molecular sieves do not inherently require pressurization to work; they can adsorb molecules based on their pore size and structure even under normal atmospheric conditions. However, in industrial processes like Pressure Swing Adsorption (PSA) for hydrogen purification, pressurization is used to enhance the efficiency of the adsorption process. During PSA, the feed gas containing impurities is pressurized and fed into a vessel filled with molecular sieves, which adsorb the impurities while allowing pure hydrogen to pass through.
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MS doesn't produce any acid, so unless you are filtering air that has acid in it, you won't get any acid in your filter housing.The problem is contact with aluminum. The filter he is using has a barrier that I assume is made out of a metal that won’t react and cause acid production. I am sure it’s good to go
The price did go up. I ended up paying 129.
Also, most MS is made from crystalline metal aluminosilicates with a three-dimensional interconnecting network of silica and alumina tetrahedra, so there should be no reaction with an aluminum housing.
Molecular sieves can be contained in aluminum housing without issues, as long as the housing does not interfere with the sieve's adsorption properties or get corroded by any adsorbed substances. The choice of container material is crucial to ensure the sieve remains effective and does not react with the housing. Aluminum is a common material used for housing molecular sieves due to its durability and resistance to corrosion.
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I got mine today. On my kitchen scale it weighs 2 lbs 10 ounces with magnets but without the outlet hose. Seems well made. The holder for the dessicant is aluminum and 28mm OD and the inside of the body of the filter is about 31mm. So there is a mm of clearance. My guess is that is deliberate to enhance separation by condensation. The body has to be thick. It has the attachment screw holes for the magnets drilled into it and it has two flats milled on it. That mass will make it slow to change temperature enhancing condensation by cooling the air. The only instructions are a semi helpful video you reach by pointing the bar code reader of your phone at symbols on a card that comes with the filter. But putting the magnets on and attaching the outlet hose is the only assembly required. There is a cartridge in it and a spare in the box.
I like the idea of using condensation as the primary moisture separation. I like the nice packaging and sturdy construction. I'm not sure I love having three bleed screws to manage. They want you to open the lower one on the filter first which will blow out condensed moisture. Then the pumps bleed and the top bleed of the filter. Not a big deal but a change to remember. Perhaps the biggest drawback is the much longer "dead head" time. I measured it at 2 minutes 15 seconds. My CS2 was under 30 seconds without this filter. So the pump has to run roughly 2 minutes more to use this. I may move this to my Yong Heng. So far the "extra filter" of the CS2 seems to be able to handle it's output. Close to doubling a gun fill if I truly don't need the extra filtration may not make sense to me. But maybe I need it.
In any event it seems well made and worked fine right out of the box. No visible water separated on a dead head but I need to try it on a few gun fills. I still have the extra filter on so I should be able to get an idea how much got past it from how much blows out of the new one.
I like the idea of using condensation as the primary moisture separation. I like the nice packaging and sturdy construction. I'm not sure I love having three bleed screws to manage. They want you to open the lower one on the filter first which will blow out condensed moisture. Then the pumps bleed and the top bleed of the filter. Not a big deal but a change to remember. Perhaps the biggest drawback is the much longer "dead head" time. I measured it at 2 minutes 15 seconds. My CS2 was under 30 seconds without this filter. So the pump has to run roughly 2 minutes more to use this. I may move this to my Yong Heng. So far the "extra filter" of the CS2 seems to be able to handle it's output. Close to doubling a gun fill if I truly don't need the extra filtration may not make sense to me. But maybe I need it.
In any event it seems well made and worked fine right out of the box. No visible water separated on a dead head but I need to try it on a few gun fills. I still have the extra filter on so I should be able to get an idea how much got past it from how much blows out of the new one.
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