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N/A Lubrication of the compression chamber without dieseling in the spring gun, yes of course.

I have been servicing all types of air weapons for many years and in the last year I have been using PTFE dry spray when I install a piston with a new seal after cleaning the compression chamber. The assembly is easier and most importantly there is no dieseling, occasionally I lubricate my spring airgun with the specified lubricant and there are no problems. I usually tighten the barrel and through the transfer port I inject a little of this lubricant through a small tube (WD 40 ptfe) and wait for the aerosols to explode because they are flammable and then it is safe to use. I have not tried molybdenum and graphite, which also come in a spray as nano powder, but I hope so that I will try them too.
 
I just use moly paste and don't go nuts with it. As long as the seal is good and the pellets are consistent it works great and maintenence free for a long time.

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I think that the lubricated piston seal leaves all the lubricant behind on the dry cylinder during installation...
No way. The finish in the chamber is too rough for the seal to remove all lubricant. There will be micro dry spots and pockets of lube in the surface.

I am far from an expert on springer tuning, but I just use a bit of moly grease and accept the fact that the gun will diesel for a dozen plus shots. I can’t find any damage on subsequent tear downs so no point worrying about it.
 
Moly on the sides of the piston seal (don’t get any on the face of the seal or it will diesel) is the tried and true method of lubricating the piston seal. Proven over many years.

The only way I have gotten my springers to be truly accurate is to remove all factory grease and use moly on the skirt of the piston and sides of piston seal. Then a LIGHT coat of tar on the outside of the spring (other types of grease fling off and get into the compression tube). This keeps the compression area dry (except for the residual moly).

No dieseling=more accurate gun.


But your way may work just as well. Thanks for sharing.
 
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I am not a tuner but i have done many a de bur and lube. The way i was taught is to hone 200 grit then 400 grit, and that’s so the moly paste has something to stick to. You never put it in the compression chamber, only a smear around the end of the piston and edge of the seal. And around the back end, skirt of the piston. First shot lubes the tube. Light combustion we thought was good.

A lot of guys used Krytox, it does not burn at all in the compression tube. IMO that’s the way to go if you’re insistent on zero deiseling of any kind.
 
I also did a de-bur and lube once on a .25 walther talon magnum, with a Maccari red seal and dental floss shim to the breech seal. Honed 200, then 400, cleaned and lubed strictly with white lithium grease. Zero tar, looking for max power. The power level went from an erratic 24-27 erratic fpe to a steady 34 fpe and accuracy improved. Yep it deiseled some but it was consistent and shot much better.

But if you are really worried about deiseling and looking for absolute maximum precision and consistency from season to season try Du Pont Krytox. I think a lot of HFT shooters were using it, but it’s been a few years.
 
Whether a thin smear of lubrication on the sides of the piston seal and on the rear bearing surface of the piston is sufficient depends on what was done the compression chamber before the relube, as well as the objectives of the tune.

In my experience, a thoroughly degreased compression chamber does not typically get sufficiently lubed by the classic minimalist job descibed above. There will be too much friction between the piston contact points and the compression chamber wall for a high-energy shot cycle, since a tiny amount of even highly effective lubrication just isn't enough to lubricate the pretty massive surface area of the compression chamber. The gun will shoot, have a good shot cycle and fine accuracy, but a high-power springer may see a up to a 20% drop in MV.

This is not about dieseling, since I can hear and feel the extra friction of the seal against dry steel, and after a couple of shots even the minimally lubed guns have the characteristic whiff at the muzzle, no less or more than a gun that had compression chamber lubing done after insertion of piston. This is what I do to get my spring guns shoot the way I want them. A lazier option would be to do a less thorough degreasing job, so that the chamber wall retained some lubrication from the past, not enough for the piston seal to scrape to the front of the seal.

For reference, I have degreased and relubed a springer something like 100 times to date, covering some 25 different guns, shooting from 10 fpe to 30 fpe. A pro would do that in a week, but hey, it is something.
 
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Good points. My springers have hardened nickel plated pistons and or buttons on the piston.

Edit: My RX1 has been working well since 1994 and has never been lubricated internally. Cocks smooth as glass so i assume all is well internally. Although I don’t shoot it much these days. Just a few shots every month or so to make sure all is well. The double jointed cocking lever probably keeps most of the pressure off the piston.

Yes agreed un hardened pistons and improperly prepared compression tubes might not fare well with this method. However, moly grease was (maybe still is) the best grease to use for high pressure metal to metal contact so I wouldn’t hesitate to try this on a cheap spring gun with an unhardened piston.
 
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I have been servicing all types of air weapons for many years and in the last year I have been using PTFE dry spray when I install a piston with a new seal after cleaning the compression chamber. The assembly is easier and most importantly there is no dieseling, occasionally I lubricate my spring airgun with the specified lubricant and there are no problems. I usually tighten the barrel and through the transfer port I inject a little of this lubricant through a small tube (WD 40 ptfe) and wait for the aerosols to explode because they are flammable and then it is safe to use. I have not tried molybdenum and graphite, which also come in a spray as nano powder, but I hope so that I will try them too.
You may not think there is dieseling but maybe you should do some research;

 
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