This is a question for you machinists and fabricators out there. Can this be re soldered or could I replace this copper line by soldering a new one into the existing fittings. The close up shows where I cracked the line taking the gun apart. It’s going to be a pain to try to get a new assembly from fx in Sweden and hope it survives shipping unscathed and fits a 10 year old gun properly. I was told by a dealer that it’s probably time for a new gun, because even if I get it all back together it won’t be the same as it was. 
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FX Is this fixable?
- Thread starter Jedediah
- Start date
Rebraze it is the other side a compression fitting? Just curious it looks like it could be . I would remove it and have some one braze it
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Forgive my ignorance but, yes the other end I’m pretty sure is called compression fitting. It looks like the fitting on the end of a brake line where it goes into the caliper.
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Time for a new gun? Always, but not because that one is broken. And it won't be the same? That makes no sense to me, other than they didn't know how to fix it and wanted to sell you a new gun, or both!
For the record, I'm no gunsmith but I have bent a lot of copper and I did all the copper plumbing and propane lines in my house. It's pretty easy to work with.
If it were me, I'd remove the broken part and then take it apart using heat on the broken end.
Then find some copper tubing and recreate it using the other pieces.
Looks like you'll need a flaring tool for the other end with the nut, maybe the broken end as well. You'll know once you deconstruct it.
For the record, I'm no gunsmith but I have bent a lot of copper and I did all the copper plumbing and propane lines in my house. It's pretty easy to work with.
If it were me, I'd remove the broken part and then take it apart using heat on the broken end.
Then find some copper tubing and recreate it using the other pieces.
Looks like you'll need a flaring tool for the other end with the nut, maybe the broken end as well. You'll know once you deconstruct it.
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Allegedly, they stole 6 million dollars worth of FX "stuff" from FX and a case is being made against the company.
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I have a question, why does the bottle fitting on the right look bent? I'm assuming it's a bottle fitting.
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It was designed and manufactured to be at that angle in this model .
It looks like I feel most days lol .As Firewalker mentioned above it can be fixed no worries . If you want it to be haha .
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It looks like a verminator. Still available in the UK
spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk
Part C: FX Copper Linkage Pipe Tube - Bagnall and Kirkwood Airgun Spares
Replacement copper air tube for the FX Verminator MK2 and Gladiator MK2 air rifle. Needs to be shaped by the end user. Available in 2 versions: – For regulated rifles – Part: 19164 (approx 24cm in length) – For non regulated rifles – Part: 19163 (approx 19cm in length)
spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk Last edited:
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That looks soldered to me. If so the tube probably extends down into the brass part so heat it up and pull it out. I would use Silver solder to repair if it were me.
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Also thought he didn’t know what to do about it and wanted to sell me a new gun. I’ve never brazed or soldered anything before but I put my big boy pants on watched some YouTube videos and went for it. I replaced some seals put it back together and it seems to be holding at 3000psi for a couple days now.
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The crack was tiny i closed it up made a little split ring out of 22 ga wire fitted it over the weak spot a brazed it. If it doesn’t work long term I will try to replace the copper tube.
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Yikes. I got mine from AoA when I fixed a friends. They had leftover parts from when they sold FX.
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Just build
1 - Just get a new piece of copper line.
2 - Bend it as required.
3 - Clean both ends with some "new" Scotch-Brite, (grey preferably).
4 - Remove the other line from the receiver.
5 - Do your best to remove all of the original solder. There is a "Copper Braid" material made for removing solder. Heat and let it "wick" into the braid.
6 - Get some good "flux" (soldering paste). OR...if you use "silver solder" to put it back together (I WOULD), buy a "Silver Solder Kit", It will have some acid flux in the kit.
7 - Get a "Butane Torch". Cheap at the big box stores. Small hand held torch.
8 - Clean everything well again.
9 - Put some flux on the first end to be soldered.
10 - With the torch, carefully warm the parts to be soldered, and then apply the solder to the joint. The hot parts will melt the solder into the joint. Let it cool, before moving the parts.
11 - Do the same as #10 to the second joint.
12 - Assemble the gun.
13 - CAREFULLY...pressure test. Start below the "regulator" pressure. Watch/ listen for leaks. Use soapy water round the joints, looking for bubbles.
14 - Raise the pressure and test to above the regulator pressure. See #13.
15 - Raise the pressure and test to half the max gun pressure pressure. See #13.
16 - Raise the pressure and test to full, max gun pressure pressure. See #13. Let it set for at least 3 minutes, keep looking for soapy bubbles.
17 - Reheat any areas (with flux) that had bubbles coming from out
If all goes well...assembly the gun, pat yourself on the back, and go shooting.
Mike
VERY much looks solder to me. Quite possibly "silver" soldered.
1 - Just get a new piece of copper line.
2 - Bend it as required.
3 - Clean both ends with some "new" Scotch-Brite, (grey preferably).
4 - Remove the other line from the receiver.
5 - Do your best to remove all of the original solder. There is a "Copper Braid" material made for removing solder. Heat and let it "wick" into the braid.
6 - Get some good "flux" (soldering paste). OR...if you use "silver solder" to put it back together (I WOULD), buy a "Silver Solder Kit", It will have some acid flux in the kit.
7 - Get a "Butane Torch". Cheap at the big box stores. Small hand held torch.
8 - Clean everything well again.
9 - Put some flux on the first end to be soldered.
10 - With the torch, carefully warm the parts to be soldered, and then apply the solder to the joint. The hot parts will melt the solder into the joint. Let it cool, before moving the parts.
11 - Do the same as #10 to the second joint.
12 - Assemble the gun.
13 - CAREFULLY...pressure test. Start below the "regulator" pressure. Watch/ listen for leaks. Use soapy water round the joints, looking for bubbles.
14 - Raise the pressure and test to above the regulator pressure. See #13.
15 - Raise the pressure and test to half the max gun pressure pressure. See #13.
16 - Raise the pressure and test to full, max gun pressure pressure. See #13. Let it set for at least 3 minutes, keep looking for soapy bubbles.
17 - Reheat any areas (with flux) that had bubbles coming from out
If all goes well...assembly the gun, pat yourself on the back, and go shooting.
Mike
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Yes, it is brazed, likely with silver solder. No flux required as the high temperature needed to melt the silver solder 'cleans' any contaminants away (the copper material should be bright orange when soldering).
Regular solder would NOT last long with the pressure within, it's not made for high pressure. Brazing is made for high pressure. The only issue is that with high heat come annealing, which slightly weakens the structure of the copper tubing.
Sounds like you did a good job if you used silver solder.
Mike
Regular solder would NOT last long with the pressure within, it's not made for high pressure. Brazing is made for high pressure. The only issue is that with high heat come annealing, which slightly weakens the structure of the copper tubing.
Sounds like you did a good job if you used silver solder.
Mike
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