GX-CS2 Compressor Water Filter Change

I don't think those are water filters.

The one in the handle is just a basic air filter. It filters-out large particles and things that could cause trouble if it made its way into the compressor, or your airgun.

I think there are some CS2's that come with a tiny filter in the hose but most do not -- as pictured.

View attachment 444227

If your unit has a little black football-shaped thing at the end of the hose, you probably do have a small filter. You just unscrew that unit, and take the filter material out. It's not a very substantial filter.

The main water-collecting feature on the hose is just the water that condenses out of the pump. After filling for a while, the line will become filled with water. The little black knob at the bottom of the picture releases that water.
 
There is a small one in the block where your gauge is.

Remove it if you're adding or using the black filter. It will cause problems as many forget about it and it gets plugged up.

View attachment 444409
Okay, there is in fact a little cigarette filter here. I missed catching it initially and may have said there was none. I am going to remove it and not replace it on your say-so, and then I'll attach the bigger filter. Thanks. S7
 
Again, I am on hold. I am not sure why three burst discs came out when I took the nut off. They were intact, I believe. Above I said that a YouTube guy said that, if a disc is being replaced (which was not my situation--I was merely investigating), it should be replaced with one disc. I am itching to get this thing back together with the larger moisture filter! Thanks. S7
 
Well, curiosity beat out trepidation. I put things back together, and it seems the unit came with four burst discs installed, I believe. I hedged my bet and reinserted two.
I did notice that neither the gauge nor the brass nut ended up in exactly the same position after I tightened them. I figure this variance is not a big deal. My reason for wanting to match position is one of security: I didn’t know if there were general tightening specifics. To me, the compressor is unknown turf mechanically.

I have attached a picture of the attached in-line filter, if that is what you call it.

I still welcome any insights.

Thanks to you guys, the compressor is less of a mystery, and most importantly, I now have better control over potential moisture corrosion. That is peace of mind.

Again, thank you! S7

IMG_2136.jpeg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: LONESTAR .25
Well, curiosity beat out trepidation. I put things back together, and it seems the unit came with four burst discs installed, I believe. I hedged my bet and reinserted two.
I did notice that neither the gauge nor the brass nut ended up in exactly the same position after I tightened them. I figure this variance is not a big deal. My reason for wanting to match position is one of security: I didn’t know if there were general tightening specifics. To me, the compressor is unknown turf mechanically.

I have attached a picture of the attached in-line filter, if that is what you call it.

I still welcome any insights.

Thanks to you guys, the compressor is less of a mystery, and most importantly, I now have better control potential moisture corrosion. That is peace of mind.

Again, thank you! S7

Yup, that's how you do it. My one is the same.

When you pressurize the system you might notice some leaks. If so, a little teflon tape on the threads can fix that problem. But if you don't notice leaks, you're fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sanctify7
Well, curiosity beat out trepidation. I put things back together, and it seems the unit came with four burst discs installed, I believe. I hedged my bet and reinserted two.
I did notice that neither the gauge nor the brass nut ended up in exactly the same position after I tightened them. I figure this variance is not a big deal. My reason for wanting to match position is one of security: I didn’t know if there were general tightening specifics. To me, the compressor is unknown turf mechanically.

I have attached a picture of the attached in-line filter, if that is what you call it.

I still welcome any insights.

Thanks to you guys, the compressor is less of a mystery, and most importantly, I now have better control over potential moisture corrosion. That is peace of mind.

Again, thank you! S7

View attachment 444501
Is it possible to put the filter on before the gauge? That way you prevent any water from getting to the gage and that aluminum block.
I’m not sure if your filter has a required flow direction.
 
Is it possible to put the filter on before the gauge? That way you prevent any water from getting to the gage and that aluminum block.
I’m not sure if your filter has a required flow direction.
I don’t see why not. I am not sure how this order of attachment would stop water from getting to the gauge. Is there water in the unit that would get to the gauge as soon as it is attached?
I don’t know about a flow direction either.

By the way, while I had things apart, I used Q-Tips and cleaned the female parts of the block. Some moderate gunk and moisture came out.
S7

Edit: What a minute. I think you mean can I attach the filter before the gauge in order of placement to the air flow. I do not think so, but am not sure.
 
Last edited:
I don’t see why not. I am not sure how this order of attachment would stop water from getting to the gauge. Is there water in the unit that would get to the gauge as soon as it is attached?
I don’t know about a flow direction either.

By the way, while I had things apart, I used Q-Tips and cleaned the female parts of the block. Some moderate gunk and moisture came out.
S7
If the filter is before the aluminum block it will (theoretically) catch the water, oil and any impurities before it has the chance to contaminate the inlet to the gauge and the interior of the aluminum block that holds the gauge. Water/moisture and aluminum create aluminum hydroxide, a pastey white goop that can pass on to the filter if it’s AFTER the aluminum block.
It’s standard filtration logic. But if you’re happy the way it is, that’s fine. Just not how I would do it. I like clean gun air logic.
 
Now hold on, rcs!
I did not say I would not do it the right way, or the better way. I simply did not think of the matter until you mentioned it. Perhaps your method is not only the better way, but it may be the right and only way. I simply am not familiar with this sort of stuff, which I have often and readily admitted. But I get your ‘filtration’ logic: catch debris before it becomes problematic. I will see about this before I use the pump again.
Thanks. S7
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcs9250
Now hold on, rcs!
I did not say I would not do it the right way, or the better way. I simply did not think of the matter until you mentioned it. Perhaps your method is not only the better way, but it may be the right and only way. I simply am not familiar with this sort of stuff, which I have often and readily admitted. But I get your ‘filtration’ logic: catch debris before it becomes problematic. I will see about this before I use the pump again.
Thanks. S7
No worries, just letting you know it’s a free world and you have options.
 
I don’t have a GX but everything I’ve read or seen on that style compressor there’s an intake filter and then on the output side there’s a condensate drain, which is the black knob that you open briefly every 5-10 minutes to drain the liquid water that has accumulated.
From your photo that shows that black cylindrical piece, it’s my guess that the intention is to unscrew the line that connects to the aluminum block that has the gauge and extended female Foster and then the black filter screws into the aluminum block and then the hose screws into the other end of the filter.
That black filter, I’m fairly certain just has what’s often called a cigarette filter in it. It will absorb water rather quickly and perhaps be changed or dried after each pumping session.
A lot of airgunners upgrade to a better filter drier that uses silica beads that absorb moisture or a media called a molecular sieve, which is superior to the silica beads. It’s your choice as to the method you use.
The attached photo and link is a popular molecular sieve amongst airgunners (there are others too).


View attachment 444422
Rereading this, there are two prices which I thought represented two different filters. There is only one. Copy. S7
 
Rereading this, there are two prices which I thought represented two different filters. There is only one. Copy. S7
Yeah, the top piece in the photo is the sleeve that goes over the sieve cartridge. Some of the photos show variations of how it can be packed. For airgunners, we don’t need the charcoal. Charcoal is used to remove odors when the filter is used to produce air for breathing. It does have some white cotton like material to catch dust and other particulate.
 
Okay. That is good to know about the charcoal.
Now, I have been doing a bit more research, mainly by watching various YouTube videos. I am now even more curious about filtration.
Perhaps you have watched videos by the guy who features the program Target Forge? He works a lot with the GX lineup. He has also changed his opinion a bit over time concerning a couple of the models.

My bigger concerns are two:
One, he touts an inline filter for the GX-cs2, especially because he says it is not good at grabbing moisture. Okay, there are no surprises here. He says the GX-cs3 has a superior filtration system, but I am not sure why. I need to go back and find out. (I am beginning to better understand what is going on here, though.) I like the GX-cs4 I, which places the panel to which the cables attach inside the unit. I believe this is the first iteration of the GX line that does so. Changes began with the cs3 and have continued in the cs3 I, cs4, and cs4 I.

Two, and more importantly, I watched a Joe Brancato video and the guy from Target Forge was with him. Brancato was strongly depreciating all filters and explaining that his design, which he got help with, is the one that does the job and does it safely. He explains how other filter canisters do not have a dedicated section for condensate gathering. His filter operates vertically, and in the lower part of the canister water can collect and be emptied. He says that the desiccant or whatever which is above should be catching vapor, not the water itself. I never heard anyone talk about this, but I am new to the entire process. I would like some guys on the forum to watch this video and weigh in. The filter you and many others use is, in his construal, largely ineffective, if I recall correctly. I am going to go over all of this. The title of one of Joe’s videos is: “PCP Airgun Moisture Filters, MUST KNOW INFORMATION!!! PART 2.”

I can get the other link to other videos later if anyone wants them. Again, I would like some informed opinion about what he says. His filter is like $300.00 or thereabouts.

Thanks. S7
 
Okay. That is good to know about the charcoal.
Now, I have been doing a bit more research, mainly by watching various YouTube videos. I am now even more curious about filtration.
Perhaps you have watched videos by the guy who features the program Target Forge? He works a lot with the GX lineup. He has also changed his opinion a bit over time concerning a couple of the models.

My bigger concerns are two:
One, he touts an inline filter for the GX-cs2, especially because he says it is not good at grabbing moisture. Okay, there are no surprises here. He says the GX-cs3 has a superior filtration system, but I am not sure why. I need to go back and find out. (I am beginning to better understand what is going on here, though.) I like the GX-cs4 I, which places the panel to which the cables attach inside the unit. I believe this is the first iteration of the GX line that does so. Changes began with the cs3 and have continued in the cs3 I, cs4, and cs4 I.

Two, and more importantly, I watched a Joe Brancato video and the guy from Target Forge was with him. Brancato was strongly depreciating all filters and explaining that his design, which he got help with, is the one that does the job and does it safely. He explains how other filter canisters do not have a dedicated section for condensate gathering. His filter operates vertically, and in the lower part of the canister water can collect and be emptied. He says that the desiccant or whatever which is above should be catching vapor, not the water itself. I never heard anyone talk about this, but I am new to the entire process. I would like some guys on the forum to watch this video and weigh in. The filter you and many others use is, in his construal, largely ineffective, if I recall correctly. I am going to go over all of this. The title of one of Joe’s videos is: “PCP Airgun Moisture Filters, MUST KNOW INFORMATION!!! PART 2.”

I can get the other link to other videos later if anyone wants them. Again, I would like some informed opinion about what he says. His filter is like $300.00 or thereabouts.

Thanks. S7
Sounds like you’re doing your homework.
I had the Brancato designed filter when I had my Omega Aircharger and it did a good job.
I have an Alkin so I’ll let any GX owners respond to your GX thoughts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sanctify7
Okay. That is good to know about the charcoal.
Now, I have been doing a bit more research, mainly by watching various YouTube videos. I am now even more curious about filtration.
Perhaps you have watched videos by the guy who features the program Target Forge? He works a lot with the GX lineup. He has also changed his opinion a bit over time concerning a couple of the models.

My bigger concerns are two:
One, he touts an inline filter for the GX-cs2, especially because he says it is not good at grabbing moisture. Okay, there are no surprises here. He says the GX-cs3 has a superior filtration system, but I am not sure why. I need to go back and find out. (I am beginning to better understand what is going on here, though.) I like the GX-cs4 I, which places the panel to which the cables attach inside the unit. I believe this is the first iteration of the GX line that does so. Changes began with the cs3 and have continued in the cs3 I, cs4, and cs4 I.

Two, and more importantly, I watched a Joe Brancato video and the guy from Target Forge was with him. Brancato was strongly depreciating all filters and explaining that his design, which he got help with, is the one that does the job and does it safely. He explains how other filter canisters do not have a dedicated section for condensate gathering. His filter operates vertically, and in the lower part of the canister water can collect and be emptied. He says that the desiccant or whatever which is above should be catching vapor, not the water itself. I never heard anyone talk about this, but I am new to the entire process. I would like some guys on the forum to watch this video and weigh in. The filter you and many others use is, in his construal, largely ineffective, if I recall correctly. I am going to go over all of this. The title of one of Joe’s videos is: “PCP Airgun Moisture Filters, MUST KNOW INFORMATION!!! PART 2.”

I can get the other link to other videos later if anyone wants them. Again, I would like some informed opinion about what he says. His filter is like $300.00 or thereabouts.

Thanks. S7
I won't comment on the Bill the TF guy. Suffice it to say I trust Joe a lot more.

Having said that... Joe has a desire to sell you his $300+ filter. I went with the cheaper method, even though I know his design is better, and plan to stick with it until I see an issue with water accumulating inside of it. Thus far, after running for an hour from 250-310 bar, when I took my filter apart, there was a slight film of condensation on the outside of the plastic sleeve, which I wiped off, then left the filter open for a few hours to dry before the next use.

Have also put one of the small (3-4 inch) filters between my CS4 and the big filter. After pumping, I could not squeeze a drop of water out of the white fiber filter. I'm not too worried about water accumulation inside the big filter to date. That may change as we get into summer, however.
 
I won't comment on the Bill the TF guy. Suffice it to say I trust Joe a lot more.

Having said that... Joe has a desire to sell you his $300+ filter. I went with the cheaper method, even though I know his design is better, and plan to stick with it until I see an issue with water accumulating inside of it. Thus far, after running for an hour from 250-310 bar, when I took my filter apart, there was a slight film of condensation on the outside of the plastic sleeve, which I wiped off, then left the filter open for a few hours to dry before the next use.

Have also put one of the small (3-4 inch) filters between my CS4 and the big filter. After pumping, I could not squeeze a drop of water out of the white fiber filter. I'm not too worried about water accumulation inside the big filter to date. That may change as we get into summer, however.

Thanks for chiming in. Yes, I understand that Joe B wants to sell his filters—I was going to say that in my previous post but simply didn’t for no particular reason—but I also figured his filters were indeed superior. The concepts made sense. I also appreciate you confirming what I suspected here.

I too figured I may go the cheaper way unless things warranted me to do otherwise.

Do you mind posting a picture of your setup? Also, how do you like the CS4? It looks nice from here. Again, my CS2 is running fine so far, but I am not crazy about some of the design features, which have been improved upon in subsequent models.
One more thing, if you don’t mind: Does the CS4 have a psi or mega pascal gauge? It is not a huge deal, but I am curious and am not sure if any video or review has stated.
S7
 
My CS2 came with rust in the fill hose, dirty filter in the fill block, with crooked fitting, miss drilled, on same block. It did come with the PSI gauge. Jason replaced the hose and block. The hose, block (no filter) and the input side of my media filter are water logged after a 15 minute run on high humidity days.

Hose and filters are pulled after each session finished to dry to avoid said rust and that I'm a bit anal in taking care of my gear ;) I too need to replace the crappy foster fittings. Each to their own in the order of hose, filters. I did check the block gauge for accuracy so do use it to back up one on rifle tank(s). I did not have any luck with my coalescent filter but one amazon reviewer said it worked fine on these low flow pumps.

I get great use out of this filter using cotton first, then 3A Molecular Sieve Desiccant. The stuff is cheap so refill when needed.

 
Thanks for chiming in. Yes, I understand that Joe B wants to sell his filters—I was going to say that in my previous post but simply didn’t for no particular reason—but I also figured his filters were indeed superior. The concepts made sense. I also appreciate you confirming what I suspected here.

I too figured I may go the cheaper way unless things warranted me to do otherwise.

Do you mind posting a picture of your setup? Also, how do you like the CS4? It looks nice from here. Again, my CS2 is running fine so far, but I am not crazy about some of the design features, which have been improved upon in subsequent models.
One more thing, if you don’t mind: Does the CS4 have a psi or mega pascal gauge? It is not a huge deal, but I am curious and am not sure if any video or review has stated.
S7
My setup: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/2024-cs4-setup.1307075/

Gauge measures in PSI & BAR.