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Corbin Swaging Press Input

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bigHUN said:
Do you know who is making slugs sizing dies or re-sizing dies in EU in metric units? I don't want to make my own slugs I just want to resize what is readily available (from HN or ZAN or NSA).
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The only ones I know of are AS Molds, they sell the tool pictured below.

Pneumatics — Bulletmolds AS-company

as-molds.com as-molds.com

Bullet Sizing
Price — $55
The Sizer is necessary to achieve a stable and accurate shot. The Sizer will calibrate the bullet to the size you need.
6,35mm — 6,36 — 6,38 — 6,4 — 6,42
5,5mm — 5,46 — 5,5 — 5,52 — 5,54 — 5,56 — 5,6 — 5,62 — 5,64

40x steel Sizer, aluminium push rod, wood handle. We push the cast bullet and get a stable diameter at the output. Bullets have thin belts, the lead is soft, the effort of the hands is enough. The entrance cone is provided.
gd-87AgP3f0.jpg
 
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bigHUN said:
Thanks, :) I see these sizes grow as well, I need smaller like 6.32 or 6.30 (these what I am measuring from push-in-back slugs).
This to minimize the friction in liner and make all slugs consistent diameter.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be surprised if they could make you a custom one, they offer a lot of custom products so a custom sizer is probably no problem for them to make.
 
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As some here know, Richard of RCE and Dave of Corbin are brothers. Richard was a neighbor when I lived in the Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon. I've spent some time in Dave's shop as well. Both are very interesting and talented men, very different personalities. My advice would be to get a firm commitment on your dies first. The presses are much easier to find.
 
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Billinoregon said:
As some here know, Richard of RCE and Dave of Corbin are brothers. Richard was a neighbor when I lived in the Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon. I've spent some time in Dave's shop as well. Both are very interesting and talented men, very different personalities. My advice would be to get a firm commitment on your dies first. The presses are much easier to find.
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@Billinoregon That seems like sound advice on the dies. Thanks. Below is an older thread on the two different Corbin companies.

Corbin Swage Dies and Presses, David or Richard?

Let me preface this post by saying I am totally green to swaging. I have zero experience. My only exposure is via YouTube videos, AGN posts, and reading information posted on the internet. With that said, I have come across a couple of names concerning swaging slugs. The one I have encountered...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com

The intent of this thread is to focus on David Corbin’s press and dies. I was seeking advice for an initial setup based upon other users’ experiences. I did find it interesting to see components from RCE used with the Corbin S press.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
The intent of this thread is to focus on David Corbin’s press and dies. I was seeking advice for an initial setup based upon other users’ experiences. I did find it interesting to see components from RCE used with the Corbin S press.
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Ask yourself a few simple questions.
Are pellets good enough for you?
Are the slug offerings and their performance good enough?
Is shooting "close" range all you want?
Is the accuracy your getting out of what your using now good enough?
Are you willing to invest some of your time "enjoying" making your own offerings to your spec's.?
Do you have a slug capable gun or willing to customize one to dedicate to slugs only?
----------------------------------------------------------------
For me .25 cal. - Pellets and slugs available, no thanks.
Shooting at or inside 100 yards, almost never. 135 - 275 nornally.
Accuracy & slug performance is what I'm always wanting to improve.
I enjoy making slugs that are gun specific, my gun.
I wouldn't have built a "slug gun" if I didn't own Corbin equiptment.
So I think spending how ever much it costs to get swaging equiptment is better than buying another $2000 airgun hoping it will be the one.
Here's an old video of why I feel swaging your own is worth every penny. And this isn't some "cherry picked" video.
-----------------------------------------------------------
A plug cutter a die set, press and a spool of pure lead is all you need to start.
IMG_6448.JPG
1Corbin.jpg
 
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Here a few videos of the Swaging Process
swage7.jpg


Cutting of the raw lead core from Lead Wire.

Swaging the lead blank into a hollow cylindrical core..

Finally the Forming of the Point.

Then here is the quick and dirty method...
No Core Forming....
Going from Lead blank straight to formed slug.
The Hollow Point is formed around the Ejector Pin!
Here is a cross-section of the two...
cavity%20compare1.jpg


 
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I was looking into components to cast wadcutters and semi-wadcutters. I just read about and saw the Corbin core moulds (CM-3 and CM-4). This guy really has numerous components available to build a complete system according to your needs.

www.corbins.com

How to Swage Bullets

www.corbins.com www.corbins.com

Here’s a link for specifics about the core moulds (see “Casting Lead Cores” section)
www.corbins.com

About Corbin Swaged Lead Bullets

www.corbins.com www.corbins.com
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Yep... I have the CM-4A.....
It will make .210 cores from my trailing, mistakes, and re-swages..

BTW if you have scape lead... not knowing the alloy....
Corbin wil test the hardness for you..So you won't destroy you Dies!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

@Ca_Varminter What tests the hardness? Does it come with a hardness tester? Is it built into the CM4?
 
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Dave Corbin will do it for you....
But he has a simple way of testing the hardness yourself:
From Corbin's site:
Lead Hardness Test

Here is a simple way to test the Bhn number of unknown lead samples: all you need is a caliper, two bottle caps, a vise, a 5mm diameter (aprox. size) ball bearing, and a known pure sample of lead (Corbin can furnish pure lead of 99.995% Pb with trace silver).
  1. Melt enough lead to fill one bottle cap with unknown sample, and the other with known pure lead. Make sure the surface is smooth and flat when the lead hardens and cools.

  2. When the lead is cold, put the ball bearing between the two lead surfaces and squeeze this "sandwich" in the vise until the ball is driven partly into both surfaces (just enough to make a fair sized dent, but not past the middle of the ball).

  3. Remove the ball and measure the two dent diameters. First measure the known pure lead dent and write down this number. Then measure the dent diameter in the unknown lead sample and write it down. Square both numbers (multiply times themselves). Then divide the resulting square of the unknown lead dent diameter into the square of the known pure lead dent diameter.

  4. The answer should be 1 or greater. If it is a fraction, or less than 1 in value, you have inverted the two dents and divided the wrong way. In that case, try again. When you get an answer that is 1 or greater, multiply it by 5. This is the actual Brinnell Hardness Number of the unknown sample.


Here is the formula:

H = 5 * (D1^2)/(D2^2)

...where H is the hardness of the unknown sample in Bhn number, D1 is the diameter of the indentation formed in the known pure lead sample, and D2 is the diameter of the indentation in the unknown hardness sample.

Why This Works:

The reason that you will always get a number of 1 or greater is that the ball will always go further into soft material (pure lead) than it will into hard material (any alloy of lead with tin, bismuth, antimony, etc.). Therefore, the diameter of the dent will always be smaller in the unknown sample, if it is harder than pure lead, or the same as the known pure sample, if it is also pure lead. When you divide a smaller number into a larger one, you always get something greater than one for an answer. Brinnell numbers are all greater than one. You must multiply the answer by 5 because this is the adjusting constant for pure lead, which is Bhn 5 hardness.

This method is as accurate as your sample purity and your ability to read the diameter of the dent. A smooth surface is necessary so you can get a clean diameter to measure. A rough surface will throw off the answer because you may not get a true diameter to measure, if one side of the lead surface is higher or wavy. But in general, this is as accurate a method as any that uses tools which cost less than $500. A reading with an accuracy of only Bhn plus or minus 0.5 will be more than sufficient for purposes of swaging. When the Bhn number actually increases from 5 to 10, or doubles, the pressure goes up by a factor of four, or the square of the increase in hardness. A number of 5-6 Bhn is close enough to be called pure for swaging purposes. A number of 10-12 is close enough to be considered about "medium" hardness or suitable for -S dies. A number of 18-20 is hard enough to be considered strictly for the -H type hydraulic dies even if used in the CSP-2 hand press.
Click to expand...
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Yep... I have the CM-4A.....
It will make .210 cores from my trailing, mistakes, and re-swages..

BTW if you have scape lead... not knowing the alloy....
Corbin wil test the hardness for you..So you won't destroy you Dies!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
@Ca_Varminter After all that I’ve learned it may be worth it to use mixed scrap lead for casting and have a dedicated trap to capture swaged projectiles as not to damage costly dies.
 
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If you're handy with machining equipment the RCE Walnut Hill press is a more affordable option. From what I'm told by others it is a high quality press. I think some sort of machining skills are necessary to make your dies. When I last communicated with Richard, he acted a bit funny (IMO) about me being an airgunner and the die sizes that I requested - at least this is how I took it. I was honest and told him that I don't know a lot about ballistics. He went on a couple of tangents that I won't go too far into, but he didn't seem too interested in making dies that would appeal to airgunners. One was a gripe about the airgun industry not having a standard for barrel sizes because .22 dies are typically made in .224 diameter. I asked about a smaller die. He also told me that he was busy with current orders and restocking his inventory coming off of the holiday. He also communicated that he doesn't stock lead dies because most of his customers are making jacketed rounds. There were some other off-putting comments made that ultimately led to me politely declining his services. That was just my experience. You may contact him and have a different experience. He doesn't seem like a bad guy, just seems like a one man show. Conversely, Corbin Manufacturing and Supply have multiple people working in that shop and responded differently.
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Here a few videos of the Swaging Process
swage7.jpg


Cutting of the raw lead core from Lead Wire.

Swaging the lead blank into a hollow cylindrical core..

Finally the Forming of the Point.
Point is formed around the Ejector Pin!
Here is a cross-section of the two...
Click to expand...
@Ca_Varminter Can you make a Halo styled slug (as seen in post #1 in the link below) with that setup?

FX Halo Ammunition - Say Goodbye To Pellets

The pellet has provided accuracy and efficiency; the staple projectile of choice of airguns for the last century… until now. Introducing the latest innovation from FX Airguns: FX Halo Ammunition. The replacement for the airgun pellet. FX Halos share the best characteristics of the pellet (high...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Corbion kit are Pretty complete.
The only thing to think about is the Storage of the dies and punches.....Especially if you are doing multiple calibers!
A Stamp Pad.. to help apply the lube…
Click to expand...
@Ca_Varminter Is it best to store them in an open compartment or in something closed in like the Apache case as seen in the link below?

IMG_4621.jpeg

IMG_4620.jpeg


www.harborfreight.com

3800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Large, Black

Amazing deals on this Lg Weatherproof Protective Case Black at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
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