EdGun R5M/Lelya Regulator & Valve Component Pics

Hello All,
I recently serviced & re-sealed the regulator in my 2019 Edgun R5M and used the opportunity to take and annotate some photos of the parts. Annotations include O-ring sizes, notes for polishing and deburring, part orientation, and regulator screw adjustment. This should also apply to the Leyla, as I believe all these components are the same in both models.

I hope that some of you performing service on these guns will find some value here.

Regards,
Feinwerk

PS: here is a link to an older post that I placed in a different section of the forum, describing my troubles with a creeping regulator and broken valve that has a few more pictures. Further down in this older thread are also photos of the disassembly of the bolt block. I think I will repost them here in the resources section in a new thread.



R5M Reservoir Valve End Components annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator (Factory 2019) Assembly 20231105.jpg


R5M Regulator Components 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator Piston Assembly Side View 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator Piston Assembly Top View 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator Piston with Good & Bad Orings 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator Lower Interior 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Regulator Upper Interior 20231105 annotated.jpg



R5M Valve Block Assembly Reservoir End 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Valve Block Assembly Stem End 20231105 annotated.jpg


R5M Reservoir Valve End Components annotated.jpg
 
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Thanks for the kind words fellas...

@Ezana4CE , I did not measure the overall length of the valve poppet/stem. I bought replacements from Edgun West and used one as is, it matched the old broken one with no trimming. Should fit the Lelya also. The Leshiy classic valve is longer than the R5M/Lelya valve. I don't know if the body is interchangeable or if you could trim the stem of the Leshiy valve to put into the R5M.

@kayaker, the reason for the note about greasing the threads at the bottom of the reservoir is to allow the o-rings of the regulator to slide over the threads and into the reservoir with minimal damage during assembly. It's convenient to use the same grease as for the regulator components and o-rings. It's true that in general silicon grease is not the best for threads, especially threads under load. These pneumatic components in this area are threaded together finger tight and threaded apart under no load conditions when the reservoir is degassed, so there is minimal friction on the threads that could damage them. Sometimes the regulator is a little hard to unscrew to open, even if not torqued when assembled. Dry aluminum threads on dry aluminum threads is not a good combo. I usually wipe a film of silicone grease on them because I'm using it on the other components in the regulator. A touch of anti-seize paste might actually be better on these aluminum threads, but I was a little concerned about the petroleum distillate vehicle in the anti-seize paste. Probably wouldn't be a problem.

BTW, All of these pictures were taken with my ageing Samsung Note 8 phone (recently retired to make way for a new S23 Ultra 512 GB!), and edited on my tablet using an excellent Android app called Photo Editor by Dev.Macgyver. It has good tools for adding text and image overlays on a picture, as well as lots of other good editing tools. It's pretty rare that I go to the computer anymore to fire up Photoshop. I used to make a lot of annotated technical photos like these in my career, now my legacy for the next generation to maintain the machinery.

SmartSelect_20231129_084738_Google Play Store.jpg
icon for the Photo Editor app....

Regards,
Feinwerk
 
This kind of thread just makes me smile. 😊
Nice. Very nice, Feinwerk. 👏🏼


This is the kind of thread that I hoped to find under the sub-forum named RESOURCES:
Major
posts, with substantial information, instructionals, vital or difficult-to-obtain information, original illustrations, research, etc.

Instead, there are many posts that are very "light" (vs. substantial), or clearly belong in other sub-forums, like the posts that ask questions instead of providing resources. 🤷🏻‍♂️

🔴 Moderators — would you consider cleaning this up?
I have at least a dozen detailed write-ups, mostly topics that are of interest to a large audience, not just the owners of a certain gun model.
➠ But so far I have felt it to be a waste to post these write-ups in a sub-forum that has been clogged up by non-relevant posts from users who misunderstood the purpose of the sub-forum.


Feinwerk, thank you for your efforts in giving our community an excellent resource! 🤝🏼

Matthias
 
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@woogie_man , The factory regulator seemed to hold up just fine and I was perfectly happy with the factory setting of 125 bar. Originally, I used to pump it up by hand between 250 and 300 bar, which stresses the o-rings more. After about 5 years, I started noticing the velocity dropping off which turned out to be leaking o-rings/regulator creep. This problem is what finally led me to disassemble mine, learn about it, by o-rings and make my posts. Nowadays I only charge it to about 230 bar max to take some load off of the o-rings.

I have a 25 cal and I shoot JSP 25.4 grainers at 875 so have not desired to change the regulator setting at all. I shoot it only occasionally for pesting.

@Ezana4CE , hey, you're right! What the heck? I placed this and other technical posts specifically in the resources section. I did not request them to be moved.

Regards
Feinwerk
 
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