Searched for a thread with no luck. My issue is during tuning. Once the V.A is set at 4.5 to 4 lines I have no issues. During tuning with the valve passed 4.5, sometime wont seal once the 1st reg gets to 160-165. First reg set 150 2nd 70. I can just tune til the 1st reg gets to 170 but Im wondering if others have seen this. Closing the valve adjuster stops the leak but just curious what others have found. To me the valve should still close with 70 bar in the plenum and 160 waiting to fill it.
impact m3 valve sometimes wont seat during tuning
- Thread starter pikerf
- Start date
You need parts and a complete tear down. Same thing happened to me.
Call FX and ask to speak with a tech. They will send you what you need.
It’s rather easy to tear down and reassemble.
Read this thread: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/impact-m3-random-leak-help.1280511/
there are some links to you tube vids for takedown/assembly — worked for me
Call FX and ask to speak with a tech. They will send you what you need.
It’s rather easy to tear down and reassemble.
Read this thread: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/impact-m3-random-leak-help.1280511/
there are some links to you tube vids for takedown/assembly — worked for me
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Before I made a phone call I would increase the 2nd reg to at least 90 bar and if you have to back off the hammer tension to get to the speed you desire.
If your valve adjuster will make the valve close, increased plenum pressure should do the same thing.
If your valve adjuster will make the valve close, increased plenum pressure should do the same thing.
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Im from canada. fx usa will redirect me. Maybe ill try sweden, 70 bar is what is recommended for the sniper in.22. and i agree second reg closes te valve. heavyopp , your link is pretty much whats going on. ill finish the read
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Ya never had the second reg passed 80bar or fired with no air so I shouldnt have any damage to the valve. I have tuned the 15.9s and just got the 18.13s tuned. Next the redisigneds before slugs. Ill see if the added reg pressure helps. Thanks everyone, thanks for the link heavyopp.
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Didn’t realize you where in canada, FX USA is very helpful, hopefully you can find the same service. Might even be worth the call to USA and then let them redirect you. Getting parts is gonna be different for you too.
Use quality allen keys when doing the teardown. Yes there is red loctite on the large grub screw holding the power plenum. Heat before you try to loosen that screw. Use quality allen keys.
Use quality allen keys when doing the teardown. Yes there is red loctite on the large grub screw holding the power plenum. Heat before you try to loosen that screw. Use quality allen keys.
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ya been looking at gray allen keys but hard to find a kit with a 1.27 mm in it and ball end
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I bought wiha stuff right from them.
Pretty sure this had everything I needed — https://www.wihatools.com/products/magicringr-ball-end-hex-l-key-metric-9pc-set
Not sure you need a 1.27 mm. I don’t recall anything that small.
Pretty sure this had everything I needed — https://www.wihatools.com/products/magicringr-ball-end-hex-l-key-metric-9pc-set
Not sure you need a 1.27 mm. I don’t recall anything that small.
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I have had this issue when I installed Huma's light weight valve adjuster spring. The 2nd reg pressure may need to be higher too. Have you tried lightening the macro and micro adjuster to put less spring pressure on the valve? It shouldn't take much power to open the valve at 70 bar. Last, have you used a chrono to see if you even gain anything by having the valve past line 4?
It seems to me a higher 2nd reg setting and less hammer could achieve similar results with less dwell time of the valve.
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ya the issue is just during tuning when the valve is opened up to achieve top velocity so I can subtract the 4 to 5% to be on the knee. The micro is at 2.25 minus 1 or 2. best accuracy was acheived at 4 lines. No Issues then. Great numbers and 1 inch groups at 100 yards. Im assuming just the way it is with a 700mm liner. Trying to learn as much as I can before giving slugs a go
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Do you have to be under a certain amount of ftlbs other wise id bump up the regs and give it a tad more pressure to hold that valve closed 70 bar is only like a 1000 psi and it is a kind of a balance valve so there isn't a lot of pressure holding it closed at a higher bar number really it could be a quick blast of air that's higher pressure and the valve adjuster would help shut it faster as well I imagine it's got quite a bit of dwell time with the valve at 4 and reg at 70 bar
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Ill try that. How far can you turn in the valve in? Damage anything? When I did a shot string with the valve at 3.8ish my numbers got worse. I settled on line 4 9.30mm from the collar and micro 2.25. es 5 sd 2 889 f/s average. At line 4 all is good its an issue passed 4. Over 150 shots once reg 1 reaches 80 bar
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Turn it into the stop I wouldnt tighten it down once it bottoms out but it has rubber ball behind the metal piece inside the cap so turn it down to take off just a touch on a couple different tunes I did wouldn't really suffer on shot count if you keep the air burst at higher pressure and the dwell short my 22 500 mm was at 110 bar but that was a short barrel and needed a quick burst out of it to get going faster before I ran out of barrel I was at least 60 shots with 300 cc tank I assume your running a 580 bottle with 700 mm but idk
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I'm guessing past line 4 the valve stays blown open because of the low pressure so the valve adjuster is limiting it which it's designed for
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Thanks airgunmann, ill raise the reg 2 to 80 , lower the hammer to get velocities down to 900 and turn in the valve til drops another 10 to 20 f/s for good groups
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Can try a tad higher hammer and less valve travel as well it can bounce back the valve shut faster to either way whichever you want to try
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