Like meeting an old friend

A half dozen or more years ago I had an HW97. I appreciated the quality, but just wasn't using it -- still married, still working -- and off it went.
Retired and divorced in Texas, I thought I might dip my toe in field target, hunter piston class. I know the AA TX200s are tough guns to beat, but the HW97s breathe down their necks.
The 97K arrived this afternoon UPS from y'all-know-where in the Netherlands. On first examination, the rifle appears to be faultless. I just had to shoot it in the garage a couple of times without sights, and darn if it did not hit where I thought I was looking.
Decided to mount the trusty Hawke 2-7 I recently removed from the Xisico B-25H (in the classifieds 😄 ) just to have an aiming point. I'll be darned if it wasn't dead on at garage range. The trigger is excellent, the piston stroke smooth; these German rifles just never disappoint.
One thing popped into my mind: does anyone use abrasive or "skateboard" tape on the upper end of the inner face of the cocking lever to reduce the chance of slippage, especially in humid conditions?
 
A more spendy option. Rowan engineering approximately $50 before shipping.

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UK eBay...(never bought from there...risky? See warning ...don't even know if they'll ship stateside) $24 approximately before shipping

 
A more spendy option. Rowan engineering approximately $50 before shipping.

View attachment 348198

UK eBay...(never bought from there...risky? See warning ...don't even know if they'll ship stateside) $24 approximately before shipping

I got one of these about a year ago. Very well done. I haven’t mounted it yet because the whole idea behind it (besides a anti-slip handle) is to save bluing loss. I don’t have a slippage issue and the handle will scar the lever with the Allen set screws. What’s the point? I like the tape idea. Win Win
 
I got one of these about a year ago. Very well done. I haven’t mounted it yet because the whole idea behind it (besides a anti-slip handle) is to save bluing loss. I don’t have a slippage issue and the handle will scar the lever with the Allen set screws. What’s the point? I like the tape idea. Win Win
I totally agree with you, these were not designed to address scratching the deep blue finish on your rifle when installed with metal set screws.

Here's a trick taught to me by an old gun smith. Flatten like 1/2 a 0.177 lead pellet and put that down the set screw hole. The set screw tip will rest on the lead and protect your finish.

others use tape? to protect the finish before installing. I'm sorta not sure that would work.

Haven't tried a properly sized Delrin and/or hard nylon plastic, that in theory may work better than the lead pellet. Maybe cut off the tip of a nylon screw and drop it down the set screw hole?
 
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I bought this grip off ebay. It's held on by set screws. It looks great and greatly improves the grip and overall enjoyment. There's nothing to break on it and I have no intensions of ever taking it off. Therefore I don't care about set screw scars on a replaceable lever.

I've used similar tactics as BOG on muzzle brake and compensator set screws. I dropped a slice model airplane tree in the set screw hole first. The set screw crushes the plastic and holds tight without damaging the bluing on the barrel. Now I epoxy metal muzzle brakes on.

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If anyone might be interested, I have used shrink tubing on my cocking arm to prevent wear and less slippage. Normally I dont have a slip issue, but the shrink tube keeps the blueing nicer!! And yes a small slice of plastic rod will keep the set screw from leaving a mark. So will a couple lite dabs of blue loctite...when you remove it, the loctite comes off with your thumbnail. I also use a drop of loctite under my scope rings, scope wont slide, dont need excessive torgue on ring screws and again the loctite comes off the scope and rings with your thumbnail.. Usefull stuff !!
 
If anyone might be interested, I have used shrink tubing on my cocking arm to prevent wear and less slippage. Normally I dont have a slip issue, but the shrink tube keeps the blueing nicer!! And yes a small slice of plastic rod will keep the set screw from leaving a mark. So will a couple lite dabs of blue loctite...when you remove it, the loctite comes off with your thumbnail. I also use a drop of loctite under my scope rings, scope wont slide, dont need excessive torgue on ring screws and again the loctite comes off the scope and rings with your thumbnail.. Usefull stuff !!
Fwiw if you degrease the dovetail parts and properly torque Sportmatch rings they will never move or loosen.

Scope ring loosening happens when poor quality fasteners and or materials won't hold their torque. Or they were properly installed or torqued in the first place.

I've also been given guns to work on where the owner locktited the dovetails. The dovetail get clogged with loctite and the rings can't get a good grip. Cleaning out cured loctite from a dovetail is a bear. Loctite may help on the first time applied but it will be problematic in subsequent mountings. Honestly, I've seen the stop pin on cheap rings plow through the steel receiver so that makes me question the if effectivness of Loctiting dovetails.

I only use Loctite on my stock screws. That's because wood is compressible and they'll loosen otherwise.

This has been my experience. Ymmv
 
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If anyone might be interested, I have used shrink tubing on my cocking arm to prevent wear and less slippage. Normally I dont have a slip issue, but the shrink tube keeps the blueing nicer!! And yes a small slice of plastic rod will keep the set screw from leaving a mark. So will a couple lite dabs of blue loctite...when you remove it, the loctite comes off with your thumbnail. I also use a drop of loctite under my scope rings, scope wont slide, dont need excessive torgue on ring screws and again the loctite comes off the scope and rings with your thumbnail.. Usefull stuff !!
A strip of masking tape on the bottem rings will end slipping and easy to remove.
 
A more spendy option. Rowan engineering approximately $50 before shipping.

View attachment 348198

UK eBay...(never bought from there...risky? See warning ...don't even know if they'll ship stateside) $24 approximately before shipping

looked at that one on ebay UK and it says may not post to the us. I got one from Rowan and it is nice.
 
Fwiw if you degrease the dovetail parts and properly torque Sportmatch rings they will never move or loosen.

Scope ring loosening happens when poor quality fasteners and or materials won't hold their torque. Or they were properly installed or torqued in the first place.

I've also been given guns to work on where the owner locktited the dovetails. The dovetail get clogged with loctite and the rings can't get a good grip. Cleaning out cured loctite from a dovetail is a bear. Loctite may help on the first time applied but it will be problematic in subsequent mountings. Honestly, I've seen the stop pin on cheap rings plow through the steel receiver so that makes me question the if effectivness of Loctiting dovetails.

I only use Loctite on my stock screws. That's because wood is compressible and they'll loosen otherwise.

This has been my experience. Ymmv
I agree, never use loctite on the dovetail, I only use a small drop under the ring and never had a scope slide, in fact never had a SportsMatch mount move and I dont use the stop pins.. My R1 and RWS 48 and other heavy hitters have never moved with the SportsMatch one pc mounts. On the stock screws I put a small dab on the threads and wipe off the excess, only a very tiny amount is needed. Many folks over use then create other issues.