Recent content by nervoustrig

If you haven’t already done so, the first step with a typical regulated PCP is to adjust the hammer spring tension to be in harmony with the regulator setpoint. To do that, start by finding the velocity plateau…the maximum achievable velocity. In half turn increments, increase the hammer spring...

x2 on Firewalker’s advice. Also may want to try backing off the hammer spring tension ever so slightly. This behavior is representative of the fact a regulator’s output pressure will trend downward a little as the reservoir pressure falls. If the HST is set too strong (i.e. close to the...

Very nice! You're a natural. Pretty cool to see the before and after, both the closeup of the crown and the results on target. With any luck, your effort will inspire someone else who has been on the fence.

Bob's guides are excellent: https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/the-definitive-index-to-bob-sternes-ham-technical-articles/ The one specific to regulated PCPs is https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/tuning-regulated-pcp-airguns/

That combo should do the trick. Just plan to refresh the abrasive often (I.e. just add more) since J-B breaks down quickly into smaller particles. If you have a stick of medium polishing compound like the kind you load on a benchtop polishing wheel, you can scrape some of it off with a knife...

Dillon, clearing the burrs with a fine abrasive like J-B bore compound, it would be tedious, yes. Still less time than packing up the barrel and making arrangements to have someone else do it. Besides, what do you have to loose for having tried other than a half hour of your time? If the...

To clear burrs at the ends of the lands, the brass screw technique will do the trick. Light pressure...let the abrasive slowly do the work. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/barrel-troubleshooting-and-accurizing-guide.1307337/

Just depends on the situation. If you're working with a barrel that has already been machined with a leade and port, it's tricky to do a breech pour in such a way that it doesn't get locked in place...a short pour, so to speak. In which case you may need to do a muzzle pour. But if you're...

Good point. The distinction between lapping and polishing is very important where the goal is to give high quality advice.

I assume you mean the lap was not filling out well, is that correct? The barrel most definitely must be hot and I would think a simple propane torch will heat the barrel adequately, provided you keep at it long enough to heat the steel all the way through. The way I do it is set up a heat gun...

One way to look at it is, lapping is always safe because you use feedback from the barrel itself to know where and how much. The essential thing is building the experience to recognize this feedback. If you are new to it, I can’t recommend strongly enough to practice on a barrel of low importance.

Good conditions are low angle light at your back, preferably shooting into a dark-ish background. The green of a wooded area is sufficient. Better still, do it at night. Place a flashlight at your side, shining downrange. You’ll see the skirts light up like fireflies.

Concern from policy makers that a regulation will be too complicated to follow? I guess he was making an attempt at humor. 🤷‍♂️

All the more reason to favor a wadcutter. A dome like the 16gr Beast will icepick its way through and not produce as much tissue damage as a wadcutter. A wadcutter, even a lightweight one, will do a distinctly better job killing them despite less than ideal placement.

Subscribing. POI shift is like nails on a chalkboard to me. To have 1 or 2 guns in a stable that changed over 1 inch at just 20 yards would annoy me so I can only imagine the sense of betrayal to find each and every one doing it.