Recent content by MikDee

Not just the height of the sear but also the interface. I tried to get the sear to have minimal engagement with striker AND to have the trigger just break, not creep and slide bumpily along that sloped striker bevel. Fun with guns, right?

JB welded, that is.

I used a piece of 5/32” aluminum tubing. I drilled out the stripped hole and job welded it in. The aluminum is soft enough to be threaded with the steel screw. A bit of a hack, but it does work. Don’t over tighten!

Cool. Let us all know how this works!

Nice job! Did you use steel with some carbon content? Did you harden it? Hi Robo, Glad you asked. Yes. Although I didn’t try it, I think it will definitely help. It’s all about not pushing the Striker backwards at all during the trigger pull. The rotational path does this:

To Sicumj- I did put some angle on my sear, but it is very slight. Some angle is necessary since the sear rotates it wants to just slip off the striker. Without a bit of angle, the sear would push the striker backwards a bit first and disturb the trigger pull. By itself, the sear angle can be...

For sure. Straighten that Spring!

Hi. Thanks for your comment. Take another look at the Instructable. You’ll see that I don’t have a milling machine either. I hacked my little bench drill press to work as one and the cutter is from Home Depot.

I made a change to both the Striker and Sear on my pistol. I milled a flat into the bottom of the Striker. I then filed the Sear to fit. This change makes for a nice Single Stage Trigger that starts at the wall, then goes bang. I made an Instructable that illustrates the process...