Long_Shot

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    Long_Shot
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    Long_Shot
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    Simply put…  – "That being if you watch there trigger finger you won't see it move or there finger relax either until target is hit.  This a part of FOLLOW THREW. "

    I hold my gun benched firm enough that the heart pulse movement isn't visible at 26x for me. I aim for the center of the center of the center, while slowly squeezing and the subconscious mind will surprise your conscious mind when the shot goes off. Or you're Snap shooting. The conscious mind is only a mediocre shot. 

    I normally hear the slug hit at all ranges and still haven't released the trigger to engage the sear yet. I've always called it "staying in the shot". 

     

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    With the 110 & 105’s going similar speeds I had complete passthrough & me and my boys were able to harvest a few this past season, so I’ve become a firm believer of the slug movement

    You might be able to control the pass through with the right HP design for those slugs. 

     

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      Toying with the idea. For a pellet gun, or a modified gun? There's so many things that go into making a slug shoot enough better than a pellet for most people to probably want to bother with it. Just have to want to spend the time to learn what it really takes for your gun/barrel etc…..

    I have way too much experience in the past casting bullets from pure lead for muzzle loader slugs to high Antimony content Heat Treated  9mm bullets.  

    If you cast them you'll obviously have to size them too. Another step, more time for sure. Not what I do anymore. 

    Swagging is a finished round with ea. crank of the handle. I use Corbin equipment in .25 cal. exclusively. Extremely flexible platform.  

    But large cal's. like .35 or above, or a .257 would be a different story. Casting may be better suited for them. 

     

     

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    I have one. I shot it as a .35 cal. with pellets and H&N slugs before changing it. The slugs flew in a larger spiral. The pellets are very accurate. But, as mentioned above not much power as built for a .35 cal. gun with about 104 FPE.  There are a lot more slugs to choose from now. Good luck with that. 

    I bought my .35 cal. planning to modify it into a hot .25 cal. slug gun for long range shooting. Works far better than expected. 

    That's what Kalibrgun should be doing with that platform in .25 & .30 cal…………

     

     

     

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    ChuckHunter

    I have a 10x on my power tuned Cricket carbine ……..

    James, you just need more scope. A nice 5-30×56 FFP set at about 26x for that Cricket would make a huge difference for longer shots. At least 20 – 24 power by 50.

    Just my .02 worth…….

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    cootertwo

    Also be aware that when/if you shoot till the pressure gets too low, you may wind up with a pellet chambered somewhere in the barrel. When you air up, make sure the barrel is pointed in a safe direction. I had my Huben fire a shot into the ceiling once, while refilling from low air.😲

    OOPS! That's a good point. 

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    cootertwo

    Like said above, probably got low on air. When going full auto, it don't take long. Hubens have the same thing, same with my Evanix Air Speed semi auto and all my Hatsan semi and full auto's. Got to have pressure to make things work right. The first time you have one of these models go full auto, and dump all it's air, it will make you jump, for sure. But, it's just air.😁

    As long as the mag's. empty. Or I'm fairly sure one round even with the safety's in place would go somewhere. But if you left the full auto on while loaded, I think it would cycle until the pressure got too low for the gun function. For that reason I only load mine right before I empty it.  

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    I used Hornady One Shot Case Lube for pellets. Even called and checked with the manufacturer about it. The petroleum is in the solvent that evaporates.  No health hazard or oily mess with the remaining lube. Just don't use too much.

    After testing quite a few lubes I prefer a spray can type of Silicone Grease now though. 

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    Vetmx

    My bore is .243 and my groove is .250. The .254’s is where it’s at. 

    Thanks for clearing that up. 

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    TrinityMaker

    If the .25 barrel has a groove diameter of .250, then a .250 to .2505 slug would be perfect. But the Lothar Walther barrel in .25 caliber has a groove diameter of .254". There are custom barrels out there that use a land groove diameter of .245/.250. Those barrels should be tack drivers with the .249 and .250 mass produced ammo. But the LW barrel is designed for air rifles. They're even listed as air rifle barrels. So they have slower twist rates. The choked version chokes down to .249-.250" at the choke. They are designed more for pellets than slugs. I have an unchoked LW barrel in .25. It has a 1:17.7 twist. The twist should lend itself to stability if the stability calculators are accurate. But shooting a .249 or .250 slug from that barrel isn't going to result in great accuracy. It could in the choked version using the .249 or .250 ammo, but the slug is just too loose in the un-choked version. That's where the .254 slugs would shine.

    If you ever find the magic combo- the "resonant frequency" for your rifle, engrave it onto the side of the rifle, and don't change it. Lock it in! If you're getting sub MOA groups at 100+ yards, and you're still not satisfied with accuracy results, you need a psychiatric evaluation.

    That helps. I thought Vetmx was using those .254" in a .250" bore. 

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    .254" sounds too big for my barrel with a .250" groove. Assuming we have the same hammer forged barrel, that's interesting. Obviously works for you. 

    Dale had a gun with the TJ's  1-22"  .25 cal.  We spoke on the phone last spring about it and what worked best in his gun. A 32.8gr. @ .250" I think it was. 

     

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    Vetmx – What are those .254's sized to for that TJ 1-22?  .254" ???  –  You mentioned having one gun that shoots a .250" but you had to slow it down. Doesn't sound like the same gun. I always thought my .250" was a tight fit, until I tried the same slug in .2495" ….. Only .0005" smaller and they were laughable. Glad I only made 12.  

    I recently slowed the velocity in my 1-22" with a .250" slug from 936 – 940 FPS down to 931 – 935 FPS range and it seems to have been an improvement. 

    Just wondering how large of OD you put in that gun. 

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    TrinityMaker

    Long_Shot, I don't take your feedback the wrong way at ALL. I humbly admit that I'm not an engineer, scientist, or physicist. I'm not an expert in this matter. It's my understanding that a faster twist (in moderation of course) improves stability on slugs. This is very evident when shooting a .22 air rifle. The 1:16 twist has been proven to be more stable than the 1:17.7 twist from LW when shooting slugs. Would a 1:15 or 1:14 twist be even more stable than the 1:16? I don't know. There are several people that are shooting a 1:14 barrel. Bob Stern has one, and he gets incredible accuracy from it. He sent me pictures of some of his groups using his NOE boat tail design. The groups were impressive.

    Is there anyone who posts on this forum that's using one of the older .25 ACP barrels with a 1:14 twist? I realize the barrel is a firearm barrel, not an air rifle barrel. But slugs aren't pellets, and I think they would lend towards better performance from barrels designed for firearms. Barrels with faster twists and no chokes. But I also think everything has a resonant frequency. This was Nikola Tesla's theory regarding mechanical engineering and structural integrity. Everything has a "resonant frequency". A frequency at which the harmonics created cause subtle vibrations in a structure, and if left on for too long, the building could topple. It's a magic combination of frequency and placement of the device where a very small force properly placed and exerted could yield a MASSIVE result..

    I feel that every air rifle shares this concept- except it lends to it's performance, not it's destruction. It's a magic combination of power, twist, and projectile. It isn't easy to find, but it isn't impossible to find either. But if you do find it, don't hoard the info for yourself. Share it with your brothers and sisters in the airgun world. We all long to know the magic combo to achieve long range greatness.

    This I can tell you…. If I find the magic combo for my air rifle, I will share everything I to achieve it. Not everyone owns the same type of rifle I do, but if I can help the people that do, then I will. Just my $.02

      A 1-20" or 1-22" twist for .25 might work, but a faster twist rate could be a more stable slug barrel choice. So basically the reduced barrel harmonics in a fast twist could help in the slugs stability from breach to POI.  That makes sense.

    I was wanting a new 28" barrel anyway. No point in having all my barrels the same twist rate. I'll be looking into this more before I order the barrel. 

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    TrinityMaker  – "But personally, i think the .25 barrel that the Raptor uses has too slow of a twist for slugs". – Don't take this the wrong way. But that's a problem to me.  

    Because I know for fact that a 1-22" twist TJ's .25 cal. .250" barrel in a modified gun works with slugs up to 38gr. @ 940 FPS and pellets @ 900 – 950 FPS (25.4gr. only pellet to fit my leade.) It works just like Micheal Hossach was trying to tell the Yellow forum members about back in 2014. A 1-22" can shoot both. For those of you who still shoot pellets and would like to try slugs, I would consider a 1-22" barrel for .25 cal. possibly the best choice. I know the 38gr. slugs do fly true to 400 yards confirmed. A heavier slug may not be able to stabilize properly, but I don't know that without having verified it first. 

     I do know that barrel didn't like a .2495" diameter slug I made for it at all. That doesn't mean it won't possibly shoot a different cup type base accurately though. 

    Vetmx

    I have been using the 1:22 TJ for a couple years on one gun and recently put one on another. In .25 they do just fine with JSB pellets and don’t have a choke. The one gun will shoot a .250 slug but I have to slow it down to 750fps. I have a theory. I have read plenty of times about having to really speed up slugs to get them to shoot. Maybe guys are having to hit the back of a cup or dish base slug super hard with air to get it to blow out and seal because their slugs are too small for the initial part of their choked barrels. The TJ .25 ACP is old school and was used when there were no options for a .25 slug shooter.

    That's about my thought also. You have to pick the slug weight, diameter, OAL etc. before you even think about cutting your barrel…………………at least that's what I did. 

    As Lou pointed out above making your own ammo. is KING. He's shared a lot of good info. about some the slugs he has been making. 

    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by Long_Shot.
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    After checking on the tank size, weight, lease etc. in my area, seems to be more than I personally need. I would buy the tank if I was planning to do Nitrogen for 3 years or more.  

    Bigragu –  Thanks for spending the time to elaborate on that compressor.  Alkin Mariner is today's homework. 

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     I checked with a gas supplier that has a 6000 PSI  – K size tank that holds 280 instead of the 300. He quoted $12. monthly lease fee and $60. for the gas.  

    My dive shop charges me $5. to "fill" from 2700 PSI to 3100 -3150 PSI into my 3500 PSI tank, or $6. for only about 4000 -4100 PSI in my 4500 tank. They never fill them. I've complained about it too many times. Even had to bring a low tank that they just filled back a few times. They just screwed up recently and put 3450 in my 3500 tank. I've always known there were a lot more shots in the air I never get. But getting all those good fills on my guns, compared to their normal short fills was what I really noticed. So the last fill I got was 3100 PSI like normal in the same tank and it's out already. That's why this is worth looking at for me. The wife says to just spend the $5 – $6k on a good compressor. Don't like to argue with her. But I don't use all that much air. So it's been hard to decide what it's worth to me to be able to fill my guns full. This looks promising. 

    Looks like I need to check on purchasing a tank and do some home work for the number of refills for my 4500 PSI tank.

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    Shoz

    My tank will be a 6000 psi tank. Here are the dimensions.  Mine will be the tank on the right  

    https://www.polyvance.com/_pdf/NitrogenBottleSizeChart.pdf

    I am getting the tank over the compressor because the price was right, see above. Also, judging by the comments, to me at least, compressors seemed like a maintenance hassle. Plus I like the dry air advantage of nitrogen. That said I’ve yet to use it. Hopefully Lessmundane will address your question too. 

    Perfect! Makes total sense. 

    bubblerboy64 – The weld shop is a gas supplier, or so they say.  I'll check this out more. There's two places to check on prices locally here.  

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    Shoz and lessmundane – I'm curious is there a reason for the nitrogen versus a compressor? I have a dive shop 6 miles away that can't fill a tank properly. Always 300-400 PSI short. 

    So I've thought about a compressor more than once. I was told at one of the local welding supply shops they didn't even normally handle 6000 PSI tanks. Just how big of a tank you have coming? 

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