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keefd

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Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 33 total)
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    keefd
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    Seems like this would be a good .177 gun, no?

    I bought a .22 semi-auto that I'm happy with, but I can get .177 pellets almost literally anywhere and they're often ridiculously cheap.

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    keefd
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    1) Where is that DIN to Foster adaptor? I didn't see it on Altaros' website

    2) There is nowhere near enough threads for 4500 psi unless that's a really bad angle. I only see 2-3 threads at most.

    3) Where is it sold for US $130? Ebay has 1 for $155, Altaros sells them on their site in Euro only, and they list no US distributors. Their Canada distributor doesn't even list any of their products.

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by keefd.
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    keefd
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    Why is everyone against made in China vs UK? 90% of the electronics in your house were made there.

    The only thing that matters is spares availability and warranty, not where it's made. I'd generally trust Hill to do proper QC and to stand by with warranty support if something goes wrong. I'd buy a Hill-branded China-made Yong Heng if it meant spare parts were stocked by in-country retailers and backed by Hill.

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    keefd
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    FLgunner – wish you could make kits including 1 washer and 1 3D printed bipod rail! 😄

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    keefd
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    1048.13

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    keefd
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    You can get SCBA tanks on eBay with a few years left on them for under $100. Add hydro for $25 or so, and the seller I bought from guarantees hydro pass.

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    keefd
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    That one seems to be for a DIN SCUBA tank and not inline with the on-gun bottle.

    If you don't mind a tether tank and can find one with a DIN 300 connection, it should work. The extra advantage is that it's externally adjustable whereas the one I posted has to be removed.

    A possible problem could be the AEA's slow fill rate. It's nice as my regular fill station isn't slow-fill, but with that DIN 300 regulator, will it recover enough between shots? I don't think so *if* you shoot rapid-fire, but if you pace your shots I think it will be fine.

    I also found this:

    https://www.altaros.cz/en/altaros-filling-adapter/89-external-airgun-regulator.html

    Includes fill/tether hose, and I found it for $155 shipped from Altaros in Czechia. It says it's a DIN G5/8 thread which seems like DIN 300, maybe. Not externally adjustable.

    Either one would be good to use as a fill station regulator.

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    keefd
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    Strietwise is 100% correct. The faster the flow the better, ALWAYS. It is that simple.

    If you need more time to shed heat, you have to get a bigger radiator/heat exchanger, add cooling surface or push more CFM air/heat exchanger cooling medium, but the answer is never, never, never, and I mean never slow coolant flow. A given radiator can only shed so much heat at a given CFM/ambient temp, the only answer is to either increase the radiator size or move more CFM, maybe both. The cooling loop will not dissapate more heat by slowing the coolant if your radiator is the bottleneck.

    I see this all the time in PC liquid cooling, someone convinces themselves that somehow slowing the water down allows the system to pick up/shed more heat. It doesn't, it makes the system overall less efficient as you want to move cooler liquid to the head end and warm liquid to the heat exchanger/radiator as fast as possible. If you slow it down at the HX end, the temperature differential lessens as the warm liquid cools with less new warm liquid to replace it.

    I ran into this problem with my Yong Heng radiator setup. The answer wasn't to use a slower pump, but to use high-CFM 110v fans to move more cooling medium (air) through the radiator. I'm contemplating getting a larger pump than the one that replaced the stock water pump or even adding a second radiator, but it seems to be working for now.

    The ONLY thing that slowing down flow does is improve heat transferred per volume of liquid moved, but that's a useless metric to judge cooling loop performance.

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    keefd
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    Has anyone thought about adding an external regulator?

    Huma external M18x1,5 regulator at Trenier

    It looks like that Huma regulator would fit, and then you could air up the bottle to 4500 PSI and get more consistent and a higher number of shots per fill. The only real issue I see is that Huma's own documentation is iffy at best as to the maximum pressure setting, Huma lists either 150 or 170 bar and Trenier says it's a max of 190 bar. 150 bar is about where my gun starts to act unhappy and doesn't cycle semi-auto reliably. If it can go up to 190 bar that would be perfect as it's just on the down slope of DanielL's velocity chart:

    <— credit goes to DanielL for this

     

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    keefd
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    I don't know if anyone else's AEA airgun has acted like it's in bolt-action mode, but mine did for a short bit.

    What happened is the warning on the side says no more than 3600 PSI. So I look at the gauge on the bottom and I air it up to 28, so 2800 PSI, right? NOPE! That's 28 MPa, or about 4000 PSI. In my defense the warning is in PSI and the MPa on the gauge is SUPER tiny.

    The result is that it would not cycle in semi-auto until the pressure was below 24 MPa on the gauge, or about 3480 PSI. It's working fine now, but I wanted to post this up as a warning to not mistake the gauge's MPa scale for PSI. If it's possible, I really want to swap out the gauge for one in PSI.

    I haven't shot it much at all, but after the pressure went back down the semi-auto action has been reliable. The gun has been a heck of a value to me. It's by far no FX Impact, but as a plinking gun I like it.

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    keefd
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    airgunfans,

    I've been tempted to get some stainless steel tubing and bend it to make a large coil between the 1st and 2nd stages and use a fan on that, same with the 2nd stage output. Either that or wrap copper tubing around the 1st to 2nd stage tubing and water cool it.

    If Hill can remove most of the waste heat between stages by cooling the piping, especially with 3 stages, that's actually kinda clever.

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    keefd
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    If you watch near the end of the video, the discrepancy is only 2-3 bar. I wouldn't call it inaccurate unless it was that much off while at a static pressure.

    How is the head cooled? I assume liquid cooled, but I didn't see any coolant tubes to the head.

    edit – I read more on it, it's air cooled. Huh – I wonder how they're managing heat. My water cooled YH gets warm fast. Even with 3 stages compressing air creates heat.

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by keefd.
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    keefd
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    edit – I decided to go with regular 30mm dovetail rings.

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by keefd.
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    keefd
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    FLgunner, you just cost me $140!

    Well, that's on me – I bought that UTG 3-12×44 compact and an offset mount similar to yours. The scope is supposed to get here Sunday, the mount doesn't arrive until Tuesday.

    At least my Yong Heng pump arrived – I tried filling the gun with a hand pump, and I was reminded how broke my shoulder/back is.

    I need to take it out and shoot it, maybe even without a scope. The couple times I pulled the trigger it didn't seem bad at all – not match grade, but I've pulled heavier triggers for sure.

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    keefd
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    FLgunner,

    I finally got mine in! I'm overall happy with it, but I haven't had a chance to shoot it. I aired mine up to 1k PSI just to test and she's held that for a couple days now, so no leaks so far. The only thing I really dislike is the cocking effort needed to remove a magazine.

    I wish that bottle band rail/bipod mount was for sale. Is that a UTG 3-12×44 scope? I am thinking of getting one, how do you like it? And what mount did you use?

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    keefd
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    Is this going to be available on Youtube or another site that doesn't need a login?

    I really do not want to sign up for Instagram, but I'd like to know if the concerns about affordability were addressed.

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    keefd
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    If the pictures are at all accurate it's just like the Yong Heng. I seriously doubt it's an actual YH, but I would think it's close enough for those of us on a smaller budget.

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    keefd
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    keefd
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    marquette

    A general question for either or both: 

    What do you see as the industry’s solution to high pressure air supply?  Adding $500-1500 to the cost of even a entry level pcp for a tank or compressor has to limit sales. Steve has commented that  even for as a person in better than normal physical shape hand pumping to 3000 psi is not fun.  

    This is a question I'd really like to see answered.

    Before I got bit hard by the airgun bug, I could never justify on a cost analysis basis of shooting airguns. I can shoot 22LR for 4 cents/ea and a Ruger 10/22 semi-automatic heavy barrel target variant costs $400. I can hit a 2" gong at 100 yards so repeatably it's boring.

    The airgun I bought cost $720, the used tank cost $95, a Yong Heng compressor just cost me $290, and JSB .22 Jumbo Monsters cost 6 cents/ea. If I went with a new tank and compressor from Pyramyd it would be $680 for the cheapest compressor and $550 for the cheapest large new tank.

    I'm not bashing airgunning as I'm investing in the hobby, but I am sure that there are folks who are really put off by the costs.

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    keefd
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    Life isn't fair but you should always strive to be. I personally think EdGun/Brian is as fair as possible.

    I have seen sellouts in crazy-fast times before. Ducati released a motorcycle (forgot which) a while ago – sold out worldwide in 6 minutes, and this was on a $20k item.

    I am curious – would ramping up production (if even possible) to say, 250-500 initial units have killed demand as it's not quite as "rare"? And then there's the question if it were even possible to increase production with no reduction in quality.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 33 total)