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Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 153 total)
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    Having talked with friends I know I am not alone in refraining from buying anything from China. International politics aside. Supporting a country with human rights abuses on a massive scale is unconscionable, stomach wrenching. Every time I use a Chinese item I now think about slave labor. However good the rifle is, I will not be buying it.

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    Assuming you’ve checked the ocular and parallax, it appears that you have reason to return the scope. It costs more money to have high quality magnification scopes higher than 18/20x so the appearance of such on budget scopes will tend to mean poorer clarity than those of lower magnification. Magnifying optical “issues”.

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    Apologies if I’ve missed something, but have you tried disconnecting the cylinder from the rifle before refilling with air? If the cylinder is fixed to the rifle then make sure the rifle is cocked with safety on (to ensure there is no hammer pressure on the valve pin/poppet-therein ensuring air cylinder can be sealed) before filling.

    If still no luck, try a quick controlled turn (OPEN AND CLOSE QUICKLY) of the scuba tank (1000 psi to 2000 psi) to create a SHORT jet of air that will hopefully blast away any fibre or hair that is between valve pin/poppet and seat.

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    Bipod, loaded or free to move, on a hard or bouncy object is a questionable recipe for accuracy. Try a bag filed with either sand, rice, or my current favourite…..BB’s. Search for the stock’s best resting position and yes, gently hold/cup that fore end. If I sound like a particular Antipodean it’s because he offers advice that mirrors mine, and here’s advice from yet another on shot strings….WH Fuller.

    http://www.rifleman.org.uk/Fuller_group_diagnosis.htm

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    James Dean, my previous post was not addressed to yourself or any other; they were just general remarks. I don’t know why you have chosen to assume so many things, which are incorrect, and so I won’t bother commenting further. Good day.

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    Hotbrass, Would you prefer a FFP scope for hunting at short distances through branches ….. such as when after squirrels, which are often hard to track unless at low magnification, or birds.

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    I advise caution. Hot air can quickly dissipate. Advice should be balanced, and considered especially hard with others’ money involved.

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    I don’t work for Robert Lane but, as a regular customer for his regulators, and after reading this thread I thought I’d better comment. (Neither has he asked me to comment). 

    Airgun Regulator’s normal website is down so presently the easiest way to order is via ebay, normally sent out same day, or via email and an invoice can be sent to you which you can pay via your card/or paypal. Ebay orders treat just as seriously as any other.

    The regulator business is operated seriously and professionally, but is a side line to Robert Lane’s (He has an Engineering Doctorate etc etc) main work. Whilst I would imagine that he would like to spend a great deal of time talking to airgun enthusiasts around the World, helping them with their regulator related queries, I cannot imagine that he has the time in the day to deal with all the people who ignore his instructions/advice.  There is a bunch of videos on YouTube that were made to help you/him, and full relevant advice is sent with each regulator. I would suggest that only if you’ve genuinely tried and failed with instructions/online advice should you then contact him; best by email, secondly by phone.

    However, based upon my own/others’ experience of his products, if someone has an issue then I would politely suggest that, unless package opened by customs and part possibly interfered with, you have not followed instructions/understood advice. Please do yourself/Robert Lane a favour, and read the instructions carefully/repeatedly.

    The regulators are checked as working/have requested pressure prior to shipping, and have spare O’rings, correct grease, drill bit, spacer for outlet valve chamber; and often replacement spring where applicable. If they did not work then the pressure could not be set.

    The regulators are properly lubricated. I quite appreciate that some people like to see things covered/swimming in oil and grease but that is invariably wrong with weapons, as any drill instructor will repeatedly shout in your earhole…..to ensure that you don’t kill/injure yourself and become a liability to all. Over-lubrication of an airgun regulator will likely cause, at least, inaccuracy.

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    A promising result, presumably with a choked barrel.

    I’d be grateful, if you have some callipers, if you could measure the exact diameter and length of one of these “bullets”. Thanks.

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    “FastEddie
    Cookie. Get over yourself. Your opinion is yours and means nothing to me. My experience with Hawke scopes are exactly what I said. Just because your a Hawke hater doesn’t change the facts as I stated. That’s why the two top guys in the airgun industry are using Hawke sidewinder tactical scopes. Ted and Matt Dubber. If there was a better option I’m sure they would know. But theres not. Like I said , best bang for your buck. Your probably a FX hater too.” 

    If my opinion doesn’t mean anything to you then why such anger. (Rhetorical, please don’t answer)

    I don’t know why you have chosen to invent the ideas that “…your a Hawke hater…”, or that “Your probably a FX hater too.”.

    I do not hate. I did not mention FX’s though in respect of Hawke scopes I actually gave a balanced opinion which included the comments that Hawkes are “…good budget airgun scopes….” and that “All their scope models lenses will be good for airgun distances in any reasonable daylight.”

    I like some Hawke scopes, just as I like some FX rifles, but in all product ranges there are different issues and different opinions of value.

    Some people buy Hawke Sidewinders because they mistakenly think they are the best scopes, being totally unaware and quite ignorant of certain issues with them; or that other brands/models may do a better job for their application. I gave my opinion, which I hope that anyone thinking of such a scope will at least consider.

    I don’t know why Matt Dubber or Ted Bier originally bought a Sidewinder, but if you care to listen carefully to the latter’s last few videos he does give hints that the Sidewinder isn’t necessarily the best for him and that he is apparently using one for filming purposes; perhaps taking advantage of most Sidewinders standard/clarity of lenses.   

    Your claim that Ted and Matt Dubber are “…the two top guys in the airgun industry..” is quite bold; but I disagree, and I think they would too. They are both great ambassadors for the sport of shooting, airgunning especially, but there are other people I would classify (no disrespect to anybody) as “top” of the industry.

     

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    “— FastEddie
    Hawke sidewinder tactical scopes are the best bang for your buck. Mine ALWAYS returns to zero. No issues, crystal clear at any magnification, turrets work great. Moa/Mildot scopes are more precise than mil/ mil scopes and its not rocket science to do math. Simple calculations. The tactical turrets are numbered and very simple to use. The best part is the 20×half mildot reticle which is the best reticle for holdover shooting and range estimation.”

    Rather than respond to all your claims, I will simply point out that if your claims were replicated by others then Schmidt & Bender, Nightforce, US Optics, Kahles, Vortex, Steiner, Swarovski, Zeiss etc etc etc would have all been heading for insolvency….long ago…..because professional shooters, military and police would all be buying Hawkes. They are not.

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    My advice, for a first Chrono, is to buy an inexpensive “Chrony” because if like me (don’t want to think how many thousands of pellets every year) you’ll shoot one every couple of years and regret the expense.

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    With different .22 PCP rifles and barrels up to about 875 fps, accuracy has been dreadful. With one choked barrel I would get maybe 20% of shots that landed on top of each other but the rest were flying all over the place. I tried sorting them be weight and size (length/head/waist) but no material conclusions. Have emailed H&N a few times but never received a reply about them. I add hat H&N replied to emails about other pellets that I said were either excellent or needed a slight design change. At present, other than melting down for bullets or fishing weights, I cannot think of a practical use for them.

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    I have operated the turrets of literally dozens of Sidewinder scopes and never come across a single one that would ALWAYS return to zero after turning both vertical and horizontal turrets; the design of the turrets and manufacturing standards simply aren’t up to it. Even Schmidt & Bender scopes costing thousands don’t always come back to zero. Hawkes Sidewinders are (like many brands) good budget airgun scopes, though I think that model type is overpriced. If you are determined to buy a Hawke then take a look at their scopes with slightly fewer “features” for less money; especially as last year’s models are being sold off cheap. All their scope models lenses will be good for airgun distances in any reasonable daylight.

    Regarding the Sidewinder:

    • The “Tactical” turrets have no means of tracking which turn you’re on, a basic feature on most scopes.
    • For your longer ranges, you should consider whether you want such a scope that uses different angular systems for reticle and turrets.
    • They are Second Focal Plane, which isn’t necessarily the best for whatever you want.  

    I suggest that you learn about scopes, about which this forum has a bunch of threads and links. There are more brands/manufacturers and type of scopes than those produced by Hawke.

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    Best for what? Someone giving reasonable advice based upon actual experience would first have to know what you will use the scope for.

    Target shooting? Pest control? Hunting? Over what exact distances? For what game?

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    My Falcon scopes track well, but then they are recoil tested and collimator tested by Falcon prior to shipping, though once getting into second half of adjustments I sometimes think they are 1/10th MRAD out; which is pretty much insignificant to my airgunning, and happens on a Schmidt & Bender.

    I use 2 Hawke scopes for short range shooting but don’t move the reticle. I used to sell Hawke scopes, but stopped as too many returns. Some batches were great, with no problems, but the next was terrible. Sidewinder range is more likely to track well, but I think they are overpriced and can get same standard of tracking for a cheaper model within their product line.

    I suggest search scopes/tracking on this forum, as there is much discussion and links to professional scope tests.

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    The first thing you should consider is the fundamental difference between the two, being that one if first focal plane and the other second. I suggest a search this forum for details.

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    Had your father joined the BASC then I am sure that they could have advised him properly to terms of whether he would be successful, what to say/write on the application or even seek the shotgun’s reclassification as historic and therefore avoid having to apply for a Shotgun Cert. They helped me with an application for an inherited historic centrefire firearm, when I didn’t have a spare “slot” on the certificate, and the firearm is still held as was. BASC membership is a shooters best defence against anything the Police could throw at anyone because they know that specialist lawyers/barristers (better that the Police’s) are a phone call away to advise/refute on anything.

    Police need to objectively support their reason for refusing a Shotgun or Firearms Cert. “Not liking the look of you” isn’t objective, though that may be a polite summation if someone has a visible Swastikas or the word “Kill” or “Death” tattooed across your knuckles (I have come across an individual) that evidence you’re not exactly “balanced”/of good character/of curious intent. Since in the UK we do not have an explicit right to hold weapons for the purpose of self-defence, I maintain that it is only right & proper that a person have a legitimate practical reason for holding a working centrefire/shotgun/high powered air rifle.

    Bolting a cabinet is not hard. A couple of hours work, electric drill, two masonry bits, the bolts/clamps that came with the cabinet and a little cement was all that it took me.

    The “problem” of shooting permissions is a subject that I hear constantly, usually by people:

    1. Clearly unfit and ill-equipped for shooting outdoors, in all weather, over the distances required to effectively control pests on a farm.
    2. Uninsured and ignorant of legal issues.
    3. Ignorant of the workings of a farm/its livestock through the seasons/daily life.
    4. Presenting themselves as unintelligent/irresponsible, having poor or bad character. Especially a concern when dealing with air guns, as they still have an image as toys/an air of immaturity about them.

    Would anyone reading this give permission for any of the above to wander your land with a firearm, potentially to kill someone, shoot an expensive bull or piece of machinery….all having at a minimum …. significant financial penalties?

    Anyone can rent or buy land, either as an individual or as a group. Only two people are needed to start a club. Off the top of my head, there are at least 10 shooting “clubs” (of various flavours) within 15 miles; mostly customised by people from metropolitan areas, and I think only two are on the internet, yet some people will claim there is nowhere to shoot. There is plenty of poor farmland/waste land around I am sure many farmers would rent out to an airgun club, even if only on a Saturday, if responsible people approached to offer cash.

    As we have land, know other shooters and act responsibly, and live in countryside with built-up connections to shoot over large parts of the UK, I have no issue with permissions. Most landowners I know either have an excess of people wanting to shoot over their land, or nobody to shoot on their land. Once, mainly because I wanted somewhere different to shoot, I agreed to shoot corvids among tree tops at dusk for a farmer (him having no luck finding anyone willing to walk a distance from a road in return for little shooting time; is the same with fishing, most people are lazy and will only fish near the car parks!) but it turned out that he was related (most landowners are related/are friends with other landowners-them having the same way of life) with someone with large landholdings; and once he related my efforts to that person I was subsequently offered shooting around everything from castles to prime farmland. Whether I am phoned to shoot at 4am or 2pm I go, around whatever problem arises, because it is a job needs doing. If I didn’t go when requested, they would stop phoning me and I would likely start losing shooting opportunities. Life can be hard, but overall is great fun.

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    I am rather surprised to read than owning a gun cabinet and basic check to see whether the person has a simple reason (which as suggested can be permission to shoot/member of a gun club) to have a shotgun is considered a “hard” process.

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    Using steel for barrels is normal and they can rust from day one. At least FX finish the outside of the barrel !!!

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 153 total)