CHUCK

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    CHUCK
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     you're certainly welcome I'm just glad to pass it on the same way it was passed on to me✌️

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    CHUCK
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    I wish you all the luck I want you to know that if you ever decide to remove your valve seat it's not a daunting task. It's like popping out a shirt button that has an oring around it with a pencil … easy peasy!πŸ˜ƒ

    • This reply was modified 8 hours ago by CHUCK.
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    CHUCK
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    Hey Christian I don't think just turning your AMP regulator up and down caused a leak…make up some Dawn Dishsoap & water and put it in a little spray bottle and spray some on on the likely areas…like the front end cap, rear end cap, around the Dowdy seal meets the adapter between the rear end cap and the block, the brass plug on the side, and where the air gauged screws in. Also there is a tiny o-ring located at A9 on the Wildcat MKI parts diagram that wears out and needs replaced sometimes. (part number 5111) It is located under the valve house nut located at A7. (part number 19508) An 11mm wrench is required to remove that nut if I remember correctly.

    And there is one last place you may see a very insidious slow leak, and that is at the valve seat itself. If you can't find a super slow Wildcat leak tape a prophylactic over the muzzle of the barrel and see if it fills up like a balloon in a couple days… a slow leak down the barrel means the valve seat may have a piece of dirt on it or something. In this case I take a small piece of 2000 wet sandpaper and with lightly polish the valve seat and valve pin – do this ever so gently – this will allow it to make a good seal once again and should stop this leak. This one is rare but will drive you crazy because the gun will only lose about 10 bar in a week or so…just enough to aggravate you to death! πŸ˜†

    I have o-rings for every place on a Wildcat so if you find the one you need to replace just PM me and I will send you a couple. Cheers!

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    CHUCK
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    Well thank you Christian for reminding me that the probe depth settings are different between the Wildcat MKI and the Wildcat MKII! This had slipped my mind and I will go now and edit my original post to reflect this. You are correct in that my Wildcat MKII .30 cal. probe setting was indeed 28.9! Good catch Christian! We seem to make a good team! πŸ˜ƒ

    All the best, Chuck

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    CHUCK
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    Christian, my first question back to you would be how do you know your current reg pressure is 135 bar? Because if that is in fact true, then the OEM hammer weight should be more than sufficient. Since you have an "AMP" regulator that tells me you have a Wildcat MKII. Besides my Wildcat Original MKI .25 I also had a Wildcat MKII .30 all of last year. One of the very first things I do with them is replace that factory regulator with a Huma regulator, which will allow you to increase the plenum space and run the reg pressure up to 180 bar if you please. And then if needs be you can replace your factory hammer weight with a heavier one, which will prevent you from running out of adjustment on your hammer spring tension nut. You can purchase a Huma 1/8 BSP Digital Reg Tester and screw it into the hole in the left side of your breech block where the brass plug is located to verify your true reg pressure setting…or you can just screw in one of the small gauges to read the reg pressure if it is accurate…I recommend using a Wika gauge for this if one is available.

    Matt, you bring up a very good point about misalignment of the barrel transfer port hole! I did that once and like you say, it was due to tightening the moderator too tight causing just a slight misalignment but a huge drop in velocity.

    DanielL, yes it would except that opening up the hole in the probe can turn out badly in a hurry…many years ago I ruined several of them when trying to do so. And yes I too have often wondered why FX uses this probe design in their rifles, instead of the pin design used successfully by so many other manufacturers. 

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    CHUCK
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    From some of the replies above I see that some of you are missing one of the most important parts of the instructions contained in the PDF…

    Allow me to draw your attention to what I consider the most important part of working on your Wildcat. For proper function it is absolutely critical that you set the depth of the feeding pin correctly. (also known as the pellet probe) I will explain this in simplistic terms that even a beginner may understand…

    The air from the air tube passes into the breech block, and when a shot is fired the valve pin opens and lets a measured amount of air pass up through a hole in the breech block. That air rises up through the breech block, and then passes through the transfer port hole in the brass barrel inlet, and then passes up through the transfer port hole in the tip of the pellet probe, and then of course on out of the barrel. If that hole in the tip of the pellet probe is not centered almost perfectly over the hole in the brass barrel inlet, we say that the probe is misaligned…which robs you of velocity. The correct setting for the depth of the probe for the Wildcat MK1 is between 28.55mm and 28.8mm, and the depth of the probe for the Wildcat MKII is 28.9…not a lot of room for error there.

    This misalignment causes a dramatic drop in velocity that will drive people crazy trying to figure out the reason why, and will be attributed to many erroneous causes. When for instance a person just loosens the four screws of the front and back barrel supports, it is quite easy to grab the scope rail and the barrel and push and pull the gun assembly to and fro. You can look at the trigger's movement as you do this and see what I mean…you can also look at the pellet probe and see what is happening to it. So that in the simple process of taking the gun apart to change an o-ring or install a new regulator, the movements involved will almost certainly misalign the pellet probe. 

    The proper way to align the probe for the Wildcat MK1 is described at the end of the PDF as quoted here: "Check that the measurement from the side of the breech block to the end part of the feeding pin is between 28.5-28.8 – if its incorrect release the 2 stop screws at the reload sliding bracket, then push the feeding pin in to the correct length and then tighten the screws while holding the feeding pin in the correct position." 

    Besides loosening the two grub screws of the "reload sliding bracket" it is possible to adjust the probe's depth by simply holding the scope rail with your left hand, while gently pushing or pulling on the barrel then checking the depth with the calipers…and repeating this process over and over until you have the depth set correctly, at which point you would tighten the four screws of the front and rear barrel supports located near the trigger guard. You may also set the probe's depth by making a depth gauge out of an old door hinge pin, that has been cut off and sanded down to the correct length instead of using calipers.

    You will not find this information or these instructions in any of the "Wildcat Disassembly/Reassembly" videos, or in any of the videos purporting to show you how to "Install a Huma Regulator", or in the ones showing you how to "Change Wildcat Regulator O-rings", etc. I strongly suggest that you download this PDF and print it out for future reference if you own a Wildcat…and I also suggest downloading the Wildcat Parts Diagrams for reference. Someday you may be glad you did! 

    All the best, Chuck

    https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/wildcat-MkI.pdf

    https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/wildcat-MkII.pdf

    *Note: The probe depth setting of 28.55mm – 28.8mm shown at the end of the PDF below applies to the Wildcat MK1…the probe depth setting for the Wildcat MKII is 28.9mm. And a major thank you to Christian for bringing this to my attention as it had slipped my mind.

     Download 1585669192_15739647885e8364481c0195.93144178.pdf
     
     

    • This reply was modified 12 hours ago by CHUCK.
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    CHUCK
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    Thank you Chipell.

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    CHUCK
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    Gentlemen…I did not start this topic to express any of the sentiment that you are vehemently expressing! If you wish to continue your argument please start your own thread to do so, or continue your argument privately. If you continue with this I will ask Michael to lock it against further comments or delete it altogether. I think your points have been made enough times and now you are just having a pissing match on my topic, and in the process you are pissing all over it! Please Stop!

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    CHUCK
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    There is nothing more deceptive than an obvious fact!

    When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.

     

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    CHUCK
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    Here was my rationale for starting this topic…to slow down the panic feelings by making a comparison of this tragic event to the risks we accept daily by just getting into our cars to drive to work or shopping, and I quote myself here…

    "I agree…we all should take every precaution possible to protect ourselves and keep our families safe. But we should do so in a calm deliberate manner without panic. Sometimes fear of a thing can get so out of proportion that it becomes almost as bad as the thing itself. Putting things in perspective by making comparisons can be helpful sometimes. When you consider 3,287 people die on average every day in car crashes, are you going to stop driving? No, so take precautions and be safe but keep it in perspective."

    But since this thread has diminished to the Outer Limits of the Lunatic Fringe I will just ask Michael to Delete it completely if He deems it appropriate to do so…

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    CHUCK
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    CHUCK
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    Ha Ha! Some people are complaining about having to wear a face mask while having sex…but if their wife was as ugly as mine they wouldn't complain! πŸ˜†πŸ˜‚

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    CHUCK
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    Okay Edosan I am waiting with you….

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    CHUCK
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    My point is lets keep our heads and not run around like chickens with our heads cut off…

     

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    CHUCK
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    I agree…we all should take every precaution possible to protect ourselves and keep our families safe. But we should do so in a calm deliberate manner without panic. Sometime fear of a thing can get so out of proportion that it becomes almost as bad as the thing itself. Putting things in perspective by making comparisons can be helpful sometimes. When you consider 3,287 people die on average every day in car crashes, are you going to stop driving? No, so take precautions and be safe but keep it in perspective.

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    CHUCK
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    Ah: Yes you are certainly right about that…for many years I have used my Dremel Tool with those bits to modify the transfer port in the brass barrel inlets when tuning guns for people, and of course during the last several months I also use my Dremel to modify the valve house transfer ports. But….while I had my drill out and my pile of drill out on the table I just couldn't resist the temptation to use my drill to enlarge the transfer ports in both my valve house and my barrel inlet! πŸ˜– I guess since the work on the rear block and mag bracket went so well I just couldn't stop drilling… πŸ˜†(love my Makita).

    So the upswing is I ruined one valve house and threw it away…and because I am too stubborn and stupid to learn from my first mistake of course I had to try again and ruined a second valve house…Whew! But of course that is only after I had drilled the transfer port in my barrel inlet larger with an 8mm drill and then later discovered the nose of my pellets are slightly dropping down into the hole and getting damaged…which yes means I ruined it also! I amaze myself sometimes with how dumb I can truly be!

    But trial and error are the way I have learned what to do when tuning airguns to make improvements, and sometimes more importantly how I have learned what not to do! I don't get too upset with myself when I pull some bone headed stunt because I seem to learn so much from all my mistakes that many times I am later glad it happened. And so many times a friend sends me a gun with a problem and I look at it and realize immediately that they caused the problem, the same as I had somewhere along the line. Its always funny when I call them and tell them exactly what they did to cause the problem and they wonder if I am phsycic or something! πŸ˜ƒ

    I am waiting for the mailman to show up today with a new barrel inlet I had given to a friend and had to call him and ask for it back…but for now I have to go start making the sauce for our spaghetti dinner this afternoon…and then help Karen clean the bathroom…and whatever else is on her freaking to do list today…😡

    • This reply was modified 5 days ago by CHUCK.
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    I had to put this project aside for a while so I could take care of some other things that needed my attention – Honey Do Projects…πŸ˜– I will keep you posted on progress soon I hope!

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    CHUCK
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    Well Nathan I just sent him an email which said in part: "I found out tonight that FXUSA is now selling their FX Power Plenum to guys for $175 and shipping to them to guys to install themselves…

    Your friend, Chuck

    • This reply was modified 4 days ago by CHUCK.
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    CHUCK
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    Wow! What an eye opener! First let me say that I seem to be responsible for a lot of this pricing conundrum, but I did not have the benefit of your pricing information at the time. When I got my Impact .30 I obtained one of the 14mm Ernest plenum cans and soon got some more in 1/8th BSP to install on guns for friends. At that time you had to ship your gun to Spaw or Ernest to have one installed and I was told the going rate for the plenum can, installation & tuning was $400. I had installed several at that price when I heard about the Michal Osyda plenums.

    So I ordered one from Michal to try out because I like the looks of the inline plenum much more than that plenum can hanging down from the rear block. I received my plenum from Michal in good order, loved its performance and looks, and it is still on my gun today. In talking to others at the time they said they would prefer one of the inline plenums for their guns instead of the plenum cans for the same reasons as mine. So I placed an order for some of the plenums and also some brass inlets in .22, .25, and .30 caliber. I was happy to buy them for $200 each thinking I could still charge $400 for these plenum kits and installation fee as I had been doing with the Ernest plenum cans… which are now selling for $65 apiece on Ebay now by the way.

    So when I first got the order I started out telling people they had to ship their gun to me and I would install the inline plenum for them at the same $400 price that Ernest and Spaw and I had been charging for installing the cans. I only installed one at that price and then began telling guys that for the $400 price I would ship it directly to them to do themselves, or if they wanted to they could just ship their gun to me and I would install it for them at that price either way. But there wasn't much interest at that price…

    So then I decided that I would just sell the remaining ones for the same $300 price as FX was charging…and lo and behold when I dropped the price to $300 I sold them all! I sold the last one here on the classifieds for that $300 price. (https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/wts-polish-plenum-for-sale/). And now come to find out while I was buying them a half dozen at a time for $200 he was selling them on the side to you guys for $150? πŸ˜† Remember the cartoon where the guy runs off the edge of a cliff and turns into a sucker? πŸ˜‚

    And now I learn that FX is actually selling them for $175 to the public? At this point there just isn't enough money in this for me to fool around with it any longer…I make more for painting a bathroom in a couple hours than I did for all the hours of emailing and labeling and trips to the post office and fooling around with all this bullshit! Anyone here want to take over my coveted position as Michal's "U.S. Distributor"? πŸ˜†

    All the best, Chuck

    P.S. The very best news I heard all day is that regular guys can just buy the FX Power Plenum now direct from FX for $175 and install it themselves if they like! Thanks for telling me that! Michal is going to have to go back to selling his for $150 now though…which it turns out was his price all along until I convinced him they were worth more! What a dummy I am sometimes…I guess this is why they say there's no fool like an old fool! 

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by CHUCK.
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    Wow thanks for the info about the Dremel bit, and yes I cut my valve pin spring shorter per Ernest's video the first time I took her apart, which seems like years ago now…but I just put her all back together and instead of showing 1040 or 1050 ft/s on Max she is now showing 975 which means I am going backwards…πŸ˜₯ Well back to the drawing board again! 

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