Bigragu

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    Bigragu
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    Ever since I jumped to the 25 cal in my Marauder, then later on 30 caliber in my Wildcat and Hercules Bully, I now look at the 22 caliber like it’s a BB. Every time I pull out my Marauder pistol and load up the magazines with 22 cal pellets, I feel like I’m dealing with a toy gun. With that said, I’ll never ever buy a 177 cal. To me, that’s like dealing with an airsoft gun.

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    Bigragu
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    Sounds like a burr in the transfer port to me. Did you buy this gun new or used? You say you’re a new owner, and I’m taking that as this is your first ever pcp gun and you possibly bought it used? If so, the previous owner probably put in a larger transfer port and did the recommended transfer port enlarging but didn’t debur properly after the drilling. Something is catching on the pellet as it passes thru. If it’s a new gun I would still suspect this as it came that way from the factory, un deburred.

    also, if you find the cocking hard, or feels like it’s scraping, the channels inside in both the pressure pipe and receiver that the hammer and bolt lugs ride on should be deburred with a polishing ball on a Dremel or drill, then apply some moly paste along these channel edges. On my Marauder pistol I noticed the bolt  lug on the receiver was starting to form a hex flat instead of remaining round as it came, and saw that it was scraping against the channel slot. I took a polishing ball bit along with a jewelers file to the channels sides and that cured all that. Cocks really smooth now.

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    Bigragu
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    Shooooot!!! Just before I hit the buy button to get all the parts and pieces for this fire fighters hand me down tank, and I thought I’d check it out closer. It’s only a 3000 psi capacity tank!!

    oh well, lol

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    Bigragu
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    Well, after a year the innards of that moisture removal block is sparkling clean, so I’m gonna keep it as is. I don’t know if you alls compressors have an auto purge like the hatsan lightning does, but at average top off times of 12-18 minutes I have my auto purge set to go every 10 minutes so I at least get one good one in. A good amount of water comes out, probably a tablespoon and a half it seems.

     

    In my recent tread on this subforum where I did my annual maintenance, the pics I show of me opening that moisture collector aluminum block up is immediately after a top off, as it’s easier to loosen the hard line connections when the fittings are warm. You can’t see it in the pic very well, but at the very bottom of that canister that holds that media, there is a tiny water drop left right at the exit hole of the bleed purge knob, and the media was moist to the touch. Not drenching wet, just moist. 

    Every time I  purge out the air after a top off, I don’t open that knob slowly, but instead fast to blow out any moisture collected there at the bottom. Hatsan recommended activated alumina more so than silica gel desiccant if I was able to get it,  because it won’t interact with the aluminum when wet. I’ve read the specs on Alumina, and wordage used is it is used a lot in high pressure/high output compressors where moisture is needed to be gone, and also in water filtration systems. I feel whoever designed this knew what they were doing. I’m not a compressor systems engineer, lol, far from it, so I’m gonna keep things the same as designed. This moisture collection block, I feel, is designed mainly to grab the little bit of moisture left that “may” still be in the air. The bulk of the moisture gets trapped at the bottom of that upright gold filter, and it makes sense that the lower pipe heads over to the auto purge, where the majority of the moisture is removed. 

    To add, in the year of using this compressor I’ve opened up my Marauder rifle at least 7 times and my PRod at least 4 times, and I have never ever seen any signs of moisture getting in the pressure pipe.

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by Bigragu.
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    Bigragu
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    Do I need to get a special adapter that threads onto the fire tank, that has a male QD to accept my compressors fill whip. I know I could just use a double male fitting and couple the hoses together, but man, that a lot of hose.

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    Bigragu
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    Thanks, all!

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    Bigragu
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    Lenwebber, thanks for the reply back with the link. I saved a photo of one of the fill systems in your link, my question is so this would just thread onto the black valve on the fire fighters tank, and the small knob on the end is the bleed screw I’m assuming?

     

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    Bigragu
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    https://www.amazon.com/Activated-Alumina-Dessicant-Pellets-16in/dp/B009GA2EAO

     

    Here is what I bought- 1/8” dessicant beads Activated Alumina. Not a bad price, and should last thru many maintenance replacements.

     

    My last item to tackle is the Gold upright filter that houses the cotton role media. My questions to you folks that have these type of canister filters are:

    1. Can the media be replaced if I just access it thru the top end cap, thereby not having to disconnect the three air lines at the bottom and remove the canister?

    2. If I have to outright disconnect all the lines and remove the canister out, what’s the best set up and tools to get the seams to bust loose? I tried a rubber strap wrench while the canister was still mounted in the compressors frame, but that didn’t work. I just don’t want to gouge and mar up the housing with pipe wrenches and clamping it into a vice. My thoughts were to apply heat with a heat gun rather than a torch. Would that help?

     

    thank you!

     

     

    Do they make and sell a special tool to open these up? Like spanner wrenches or like an oil filter wrench?

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by Bigragu.
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    Bigragu
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    What I found was awesome! No rust, no forms of oxidation, and the beads all looked clean. I had done some research as an effort to school myself on dessicant types, and what I found out is that activated Alumina does not interact with aluminum when wet, and I could sense that Hatsan USA in our emails back and forth on this matter, that they were leaning more in this type over the Silica gel dessicant. So for now, I replaced the beads back into the block and closed everything back up until I find and buy some Alumina.

    The O- ring that was used originally was all torn up along the circumference edge, as if maybe the O- ring used was too thick. I found the correct size in my O-ring kit box, and used that rather than what came in the compressors rebuild kit.

     

    For future reference, I labeled on the block the correct size metric O- Ring.

     

     

     

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    Bigragu
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    In continuing with the yearly maintenance on my Lightning, yesterday I addressed the air dryer aluminum block to find out what sort of media was in there and to see if any oxydation, rust, or contamination was present.

    Hatsan does not include replacement media for this water removal block. Everything else was provided for thoughwhen you buy this compressor, like a rebuild kit made up of O-rings and gaskets, along with a replacement filter media for the gold up right filter. So I called Hatsan USA and talked with Shawn to find out what I needed, and he said I needed to get standard Silica gel dessicant or Activated Alumina dessicant beads in 1/16” to 3/16” in size. Okay, armed with this knowledge, and some awesome assistance from CENTERCUT Mike, I opened it all up.

     

     

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    Bigragu
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    vdwb

    Evensteven 101 has a nice clamp on picatinny rail for the Prod on eBay. Check out item # 192529947825 on eBay. He has nice single shot trays for several manufacturers also.

    Dennis

     

    I believe eve this is the tactical mount that Dennis referred to. It is 3D printed, and clamps onto the pressure pipe of the PRod. I have it on mine. All you would need is a QD 1” diameter scope mount mounted on the body of a 1” OD tactical light and you’re set.

     

    Now, having said that, this clamp will spin freely on the pipe. There is no way to tighten it down enough without the bolt ripping thru the 3D material. I emailed that EVENSTEVEN fella and told him he either needed to shrink down the diameter of his product and change out the bolt for a longer one, or better and easier yet, do what I did and stick on a two sided Gorilla brand tape on the inside saddle of the clamp, so it not only reduces the inside diameter, but it adds friction/sticktion by not allowing the clamp to spin once tightened. Maybe even provide a strip to the customer. I emailed him pics of not only my finished install, but also a pic of which tape I used. I’m not sure if he made changes to it or provides the two sided tape. Oh, last thing, if you look close at the bolt it is a finger tighten knob. I swapped out that bolt for an Allen head bolt so I could cinch it down tighter.

    Mine is now solid, and won’t spin off center every time I push on the flashlights on button at the rear of the light.

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by Bigragu.
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    Bigragu
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    kentek314

    Well, first use seemed to go pretty well.  Temp went to 71C  Don't know if that is normal.

    Now I have another question: I bought a water/oil separator off AliExpress. Not the expensive one, the $24 one. Looks to be made quite well.

    Here is my question: Where do I install it? Do I install it at Compressor? Or do I install it just in front of tank? Or does it matter?  Sorry, guess that is 3 questions. 

    kentek

    Attach it directly under the pistol grip….ha ha kidding you, man. You can mount it anywhere, and typically most folks mount filtration systems somewhere close to the compressor. Regardless, you want that thing in use somewhere between the compressor and what you’re filling. If it’s one of those hand held filter canisters that are like 4 or 5” in length, I’d just connect it at the end of your fill whip, with your fill probe connected on the downstream of the canister. 

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    Bigragu
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    Hey, all, what about the media that’s in the aluminum block that houses the air bleed screw and where the fill whip is connected to? What type of media goes in there, that does not harm or contaminate the aluminum?

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    Bigragu
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    Good to know you’re back in the game!

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    Bigragu
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    Try some of this:

     

     

    Ive used this Nylog on the threads of a Marauder pressure gage, no leaks. I’ve made up two sets of 90 degree quick disconnect fittings that had all NPT threads, no leaks. Only need a tiny bit spread out to all the threads.

    taking fasteners apart later on, no sweat. It will not harden over time, and applies clear and stays clear

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by Bigragu.
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    Bigragu
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    BD, when shooting this Bully keep an eye out for scope rail flexing that stems from the bottle cover, to the barrel shroud clamps, and then onto the scope rail. Its worse when attaching a bipod to the pic rail underneath the bottle cover, and also may flex when resting the bottle cover on a sand bag rest. 

     

    Other than that, it’s an awesome rig. Enjoy!

    • This reply was modified 1 year ago by Bigragu.
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    Bigragu
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    2D1C

    It's a shame that happens. I ran a shotgun club in Oregon for several years and we never had a problem, which amazed me being how there were $10k plus guns in the racjks all the time!

    @bigragu I went to that Lincoln range a couple months back wasn't there10 minutes. Got into it with some older guy (like me) packed up my kit and me and my buddy will NEVER go back there!

     

    Dennis

    Yeah, I’m finding that some of the folks that have membership to that place have a kind of premadona air about them. Heck, I went to the rangemaster who I met at the Roseville Sportsman’s warehouse a year earlier to chat with him, and let him know I took his advice on a scope he reccomended I get for my Savage 110 BA, in which he also owned. I thought it would be a nice gesture to say thank you to him for his guidance, and when I told him about our meet a year before, he basically gave me the look of “oh yeah? So what”. Kinda ticked me off with his arrogance. It’s unfortunate that places like a range has arrogant azz hoolz like that.

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    Bigragu
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    Are you kidding me? At EBR? I’m thinking to even attend that event it takes $$, so if one has the $$ to attend that, he/she certainly has the centavos for a dang magazine! It just goes to show that you can never let your guard down, even at an event with fellow enthusiasts. 

    I wonder if that magazine thief is on this forum, reading all of this?

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    Bigragu
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    Home Depot carries a spray lube product, dry lube, made specifically for spraying lube into skill saws, chop saws, chain saw, anywhere a lube is needed but dries fast as not to collect dust and debris. If it’s lube needed in the cocking joints and pivot points, shouldn’t this work?

     

    i have used this spray lube on the bed of my trusty craftsman 10” miter saw, and man that stuff dries almost immediately the minute it comes out the spray straw, and the platform of the compound saw can spin so smooth afterwards. It’s also my go to spray lube for pad locks, combination locks, etc.

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    Bigragu
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    I always wondered like on the ranges I frequent, when the range master calls the no fire and go and check your targets, well, whose watching your gun that’s sitting on the bench? The range I go out to in Lincoln, CA is wide open. The parking lot is right behind the shooting benches, and one could easily swipe a gun off the table and book out of the driveway. 

    Interesting enough, I met a guy once out at that range that commented on folks that bring multiple guns out, saying he would never do that, because he’s heard of bad folks placing stickers on the car bumpers of these folks with multiple high dollar guns, then they follow them home. The sticker is now a “Mark” that can easily be identified later on for a home theft.

    My wife hates that I’m always on guard, wherever I go, instead of “just relaxing and enjoying the moment”. Believe me, I would love to do that, but the minute I do let my guard down, then something gets stolen or broken, lol

Viewing 20 posts - 1,181 through 1,200 (of 1,977 total)