Bigragu

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    Bigragu
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    That, or have a protective fail safe in place that prevents damage from accidentally doing that.

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    I agree with all the comments above on Hill Airgun products. He ships quick, really quick. And he still answers any questions I have, long after the sale has been made.

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    Man, guys, I’m sorry to hear about all of that. My biggest fear has always been in a situation when machinery grabs clothing or hair, and pulls you in. We all have heard of stories of tree guys getting pulled into chipper shredders, and man I always wondered what the heck was going thru their minds at the time before the accident. In my trade in the sheet metal shop the press brake and power rollers and crimpers were the machines to really be on top of our game 24/7, cause one wrong move and you’ll be doing push ups on nubs.

    you hobbyists be careful and no short cuts, man!

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Bigragu.
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    My favorite next to my Tikka T3 in 22-250. Sad thing is, I’ve owned this since 2012, and everything, the gun, scope, still unfired. Stashed in a case still with the factory oils on it. 

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    Holy crap! A John Anderson Fan! Wooo Hooo JamesD! And I thought all you were was an Alkin man, lol! Wanna know something? That’s a leetle girl, in mah neighberhoood, her name is Charlotte Johnson and she’s really lookin’ goood! Ha ha!

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    I’d like to tell you a wildcat as I’m very fond of the two that I have, but I have realized the importance of plenum space in a regulated gun, so from what others have said, the uragan has ample plenum space, and I have yet to hear any bad reviews about it. Not familiar on the other guns you mentioned. 

     

    Sounds like you have awesome guns already. Why not save up a bit more and invest in an Alkin compressor? The Mariner W31. You’d be all set for air supply then.

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Bigragu.
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    Did you check with Pyramid Air? They may have a replacement board, or for sure they’ll know where to get one.

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    The thing that surprised me the most with the Alkin, was being able to turn it back on while still fully pressurized. The guy I bought it from did a start up and “how to use” demo for me while topping off my tank from 3200 to 4500. He shut it off cause he thought the gage on the Alkin said 4500, but due to his line of sight at an angle it was really only at 4300 psi. I told him he shut it off too soon, and he says no biggie and went for the on switch. I tried to stop him and too late, he flipped it back on and that thing didn’t even stutter, shake, cough, etc. it kept on purring on like it was never shut off.

     

    That move right there would have been the demise for most of the Yong Hengs, Air Venturies, and even my Lightning compressor, but these Lightning’s have a fail safe that protects it should one ever do that. 

    I personally still don’t plan on restarting any pressurized compressor no matter how big and bad @$$ it is. I’m gonna purge it of all air and just start over.

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Bigragu.
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    Try Amsoil ISO 100 30/40 grade compressor oil. You can order it straight from AMSOIL, and a $14 Quart should give you 2.5 fills. My Lightning has never had a smell, till like a month ago prior to it failing. The oil brand new is crystal clear going in, and after its first drain at 10 hours of use it barely had a tint of brown.

    When my compressor failed last month I drained the oil and it was dark brown through out. It was also releasing a ton of crank case vent(in leading up to the failure) in which I noticed a smell, when I didn’t before when all things were new.

    i have a strong feeling after my recent rebuild the oil will stay clean looking and the smells will be gone.

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    How does the Nardi compare to the Alkin? A brand new Alkin is hundreds less, so what does this Nardi offer that the Alkin doesn’t? Just curious.

    @ Intenseaty- I saw pictures of you earlier scuba diving as one of your hobbies, I think you were spear fishing. In that hobby, is it difficult find a used dive shop compressor for sale from any of your connections in that sport? I only ask, as I was on a divers forum that discussed the Alkin, and they were discussing Alkins bought second hand from Dive shops that upgraded to newer models or shops that closed their businesses down. Curious on that sport, as a source for picking up a used dive compressor.

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    I am curious to know how many pages this extends out to, lol

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    @ Hawkeye- yes, tools are a big investment. What’s a cordless 18 or 20 volt makita impact gun cost these days? Cordless sawzalls? And those Dewalt cordless double cuts are very expensive. A small shop, yes, I can see carrying on tools from job to job, but man, as an apprentice, boy do I remember getting an a$$ chewing if I dropped my drill off of a ladder and it got all smashed up, cause that’s coming out of the profit somewhere. Same with cords getting ripped in half if you tied it onto your scissor lift and raised up while your tire was on top of the cord. Those commercial cords weren’t cheap. Again, small shop setting.

    These larger shops that do multi million dollar, 5 year projects, and are usually swarmed with 30 or more crew members, some of these shops bid the tools as part of the job estimate, and yes, the foremen still had to police the abuse or theft of the tools, but in the end, these tools weren’t cost effective to repair. I’m talking mainly corded hand power tools like mentioned above. Not talking about pipe threading machines, welders, generators, etc. So, then, these corded personal tools were of the cheaper kind. Throw always, if you will. 

    yes, FMB would toss them, and that apprentice that informed me of that along with other apprentices, would go hoarding they the trash looking for ones that were indeed salvageable, to keep for themselves.

    Now, to tie this all into this pcp hobby:  contractor wanting profits and dollars in pocket- the Yong Heng buyer. Compressors expected to work, but known as short lived- the throw away tools. Would rather use the money elsewhere towards family or another high end gun.

    Alkin and Bauer compressors- those went to the guys fed up of dealing with throw always and losing their air supply, and saved up for one eventually, or the one that believes his quality of tools is just an extension to his success.

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    JKing, that’s my understanding. I’ll know for sure if that air line comes in within a couple of days

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    Curious to know as it hasn’t been mentioned, where super lube is exactly used on? Moving joints like the cocking latch? I don’t own an impact, but would just like to know. 

    With all the different lubes and cleaners out there, I’ve narrowed mine to a few and try to stick with them. Moly grease on internal moving parts except the hammer areas, Diver’s silicone grease for o-rings, liquid MP-5 or FP10 on moving joints such as cocking latches, moving rods on bull pups, etc., and finally moly powder or PTFE powder dust on the inner walls of the hammer and hammer spring passages. Just a light dusting.

    For a wipe down of the exterior of the entire gun’s metal parts, just the MP-5 doused on a rag to wipe the gun down is all. 

    Barrel cleaning I use all these products, in stages, Low VOC brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol, JB bore paste lapping compound(on the initial job on new barrels only) JB Bore brite, and a metal wax to finish things off. 

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Bigragu.
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    I remember back in the mid 2000’s I was talking with a student in the class I was teaching, about what happens to the tools after a large size project. He worked for Frank M. Booth, a mid sized sheet metal shop located in Marysville, CA. They’re one of the oldest around. That shop, for its size, does multi multi million dollar projects, mainly all the large penitentiaries up and down CA. Name the prison, and FMB did the HVAC and process piping on it, guaranteed.

    Anyway, jobs of that size require large manpower, which in turn require a lot of tools. So, I ask this kid, does FMB invest in the high dollar cordless makitas, the dual pack 18 volt impact ones? Cordless sawzall’s, double cuts, etc?

    He says no way. All jobs have a certain $$ amount formulated into the bid for tools, and for drill motors they use the $60 high speed Makita corded drills, corded sawzalls, everything corded. They are not loyal to any brand, it’s what they can get the cheapest in bulk.

    So, my next question, is what do you all do with the busted up and worn out tools at the end of a 5 year prison job project? That had 30 guys on it, and each guy equipped with one drill, a sawzall, and double cuts? Does FMB have a tool crib in the shop, where there’s usually an old timer running that department repairing tools, or replacing the cords?

    He says no way. When the large trucks come back from cleaning out the project with tools, duct work, misc equipment, all the tools on that job go right in the dumpster. Some of them just need a new cord, but to pay someone to repair it would cost more than the tool. They’ve done their job, got the job done, and instead of high dollar tools all banged up getting reused, more $$ went into the company profits. 

    So, the point of all of this, the YH compressors, the mid priced Tuxings, Air Venturis, Lightning’s, All serve their purpose in getting someone in quickly to enjoy this sport, at a low investment. Wether they choose to continue this hobby and invest in better equipment, well, all that can happen later. Just like that Gamo mentioned earlier. Start low, see if you like it, and if you do, and can afford better, then do so. Meanwhile, since you are now able to enjoy the sport RIGHT NOW, maybe save up for a better compressor down the road. Bottom line, Where does one want to spend their money, at the immediate moment?

    Heres my whole take on this- once a person has invested in a low budget Yong Heng and has gotten a taste of having his own air source, he’s always gonna want that. When the YH bites the dust, they are either going to re evaluate their finances to see if they can afford better, or just get another YH, and accept the fact that he’s ok with a throw away that’ll last him a year. 

    If a person invests in a Bauer or an Alkin thinking all his air worries are now over, well, I pity the fool(in a Mr T voice), as we all know in time these will fail, also. The key is immediate parts availability, and this is where the high dollar compressors shine.

     

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    If you look closely, even though the actual pics of the parts aren’t shown, like as an example the crank case breather or the air intake filter housing and filter assembly, these parts are still noted on the parts list, so you have a number to use when reordering parts. 

     

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    Just lookee here what HatsanUSA provided for me, to share to all Lightning owners. A parts list accompanied by pics. They also apologized for responding late, and are sending me a new hard line along with another complete reseal kit, so now I’m definitely good to go.

    Please print this thread out, blow up all the pics, bookmark it, do whatever you gotta do to save it. We all know how posts get buried in the archives, and I may not have this on me anymore in the future. 

     

    Parts list with part numbers

     

     

    Parts with part numbers attached- enjoy!

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    We will have to compare notes, lol, as mines up there in FPS with a 5 FPS ES using the Vortex pellets, and still crazy accurate. Good job, NE!

     

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    Don’t understand why everyone’s giving the OP a hard time for not getting an owners manual with a gun and complaining about it. If anything an owners manual of a weapon also spells out all the safety precautions and guidelines of gun ownership. Every gun I’ve ever owned or have seen people get, wether a daisy red Ryder or a Savage 110 BA in 338 Lapua mag they all come with an owners manual. 

    I can guarantee if any of you got a fancy coffee maker that does both regular brews and uses pods and it came with no owners manual you would bitch, and get upset if someone said just figure it out, or maybe you shouldn’t be a coffee drinker if you can’t figure it out. 

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    @SigP220- payment for parts was done thru PayPal, and it took just under 3 weeks to get to me. 

    So, to summarize all of this(I was tied up with my son most of the evening helping him qualify for his very own first car loan, lol) this is what I would do, knowing what I know now:

       Check all the easy things first, like the two check valves. One is at the discharge line coming out of the second stage high pressure head, and the second one is at the intake connection at the aluminum desiccant block that your fill whip is connected to. Run a test(see note below about draining the coolant). If still no pressure build up after the check valves have been changed out or cleaned out, follow steps 1 thru 3. This is all assuming you’re having this problem of no pressure build up and you are 100% leak free at all connections. 

     

    1. Remove the entire second stage high pressure cylinder piece by piece, just so you can see if there is pitting in any of the aluminum parts. That’s a total of 4 long bolts, and 4 short ones, all 5mm Allen. Any signs of pitting, just stop, remove the four short bolts at the bottom of the cylinder head flange, set that head aside, and just order a brand new head assembly from Tuxing. In the link in my last post I went ahead and put all the parts that I ordered in my cart, so you know exactly what to get.

    2. On the o ring seal kit, I was unsure if the check valve springs included in the kit matched what came in the hatsan kit, if you haven’t dove into your hatsan kit, you don’t need to order this o ring kit. If you already have, or want a spare kit, make sure and copy and paste that kit I have pictured above and message Tuxing thru email that you want this exact kit, and copy and paste this kit on your email.

    3. The gasket set- it comes with the one gasket you’ll need for the high pressure second stage to seal up your new head, and will also include the two you will need for the first stage head along with that stainless reed blade, and the two tiny rods to hang that reed blade. Even if yours still looks good, change it out. 

    I found a lot of carbon type crud in the section of the first stage that has the embossed V shape, that’s in my second to last post, first pic. Clean that all up along with the aluminum mating parts with a scotch brite pad, and wash everything up with a cleaner degreaser solution. 

    When scraping off all the old paper gasket material on both heads, please shove a shop towel or piece of paper towel into the cylinder so that debris does not get caught up on top of the inner piston cylinder. I would buy some gasket remover from the auto parts store, as it makes scraping the old gasket much easier. Finally, take your shop compressor or canned air and blow all debris away from the entire cylinder areas. Clean is king here for sure. 

    Heres another final tip- prior to even opening anything up, drain all your coolant out and just plan on replacing all of that with new. When you disconnect the cylinder heads you’ll have coolant all over, and it makes a big mess, especially if your using anti freeze in the mix. When your all bolted back up, just run clean, fresh water thru the system to flush out the old coolant remains during your testing procedure. If you have to reopen anything, all you’ll have spilling all over is plain water, instead of slimy coolant. If all checks out ok and your compressor is all like new again, drain the water, replace with the coolant and distilled water as spec’d out by hatsan, and plan on changing out the oil for new. 

    While you’re at it, change out the tampon filter in the coolant tower, along with the desiccant beads in the aluminum block. Your hatsan o ring kit along with the o ring kit from Tuxing will have the green Viton O rings for these areas. 

    Awhile back, I posted my maintenance filter replacement here on this forum. The correct desiccant beads for the desiccant block is ACTIVATED ALUMINA, as told to me by Hatsan, and can be purchased from amazon. Do a search on my post, as I’ve also well documented that maintenance procedure step by step with pics. 

     

    By doing all all of this, your compressor will be like new again, ready to take on many many tank top offs.

    After I change out that hard line that’s leaking, I’m gonna clean this thing all up from the coolant spill marks, and put this compressor up for sale. I will have enough o rings, piston seals, and gaskets to do two or three more rebuilds. Only reason I’m selling is to replenish my bank account from the used Alkin I just recently purchased. I am totally confident now with all the work I’ve put into it along with new parts, it is in near new condition with just under 15 hours of use on it. 

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