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Tuning Problem with my RAW HM1000X .22
- Thread starter Richieg
- Start date
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Just take note in washer stack and mubhaur said he could probably walk you through it with the pictures I sent he has rebuilt his regulator
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You need to replace O ring number 1, 2 and 4.
Check the regulator seat condition number 5.
No need of O ring number 3 if you make the modification I shall mention next.
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Insert the regulator piston in the regulator body. Remove O ring 3. Screw in the brass part showed with arrow. Now try to move the piston up and down. It will not move if you have tightened the brass part all the way in.
Now measure the length. Then screw out the brass part to the extent that you get a movement in piston of around 0.3 mm to 0.4 mm. Now measure the length again.
Now you have to remove the material from the edge of the brass part almost equal to the difference of the two measurements.
The ultimate goal is that if you screw in this part all the way in still there should be a movement of .03 to .04 mm.
Once you achieve this movement while the part is all the way in and no O ring on this part, you are done.
After replacement of all other O rings of the regulator and inspection of regulator seat, re assemble the regulator.
Install the cup washers in the same sequence in which these were when you removed these.
Put the metal washer and screw.
Adjust the regulator pressure to 150 bars and start your testing.
Hope it will help.
Umair Bhaur
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Mubhaur..thanks very much...now I have enough info to either fix it...or really mess it up..lol
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Mubhaur so if I file off the needed material to get the .03-.04mm movement I will no longer need the no.3 oring ? Mine is a HM1000X...so why is there a no.3 oring needed instead of doing this from the factory? Or does the no.3 oring give a tolerance of .03-.04 from the factory. I'm kinda afraid to take off the material...If I can't understand why or why it isn't done from the start by the factory. Thanks for some more explaining..
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If you read above that oring can be eliminated by doing the modification that he is describing below it's in the post just above that where he points that out out
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Mubhaur so if I file off the needed material to get the .03-.04mm movement I will no longer need the no.3 oring ? Mine is a HM1000X...so why is there a no.3 oring needed instead of doing this from the factory? Or does the no.3 oring give a tolerance of .03-.04 from the factory. I'm kinda afraid to take off the material...If I can't understand why or why it isn't done from the start by the factory. Thanks for some more explaining..
Dear,
I think I should not have advised you the upgradation procedure at this stage. Rather you just need to rebuild the regulator. For rebuilding its very easy. You have to replace all the O rings including O ring 3. Then install all the parts in reverse order. Here you are almost done.
The last step is to screw in the brass part only to such extent that the movement of piston should become from .3mm to .4mm.
In this procedure you do not need to machine anything.
The only important thing is that you need to use such O ring size in O ring 3 that when you screw in the brass part and keep the movement in .3 to .4 mm then the O ring 3 should be a bit compressed so that there should not be any movement / vibration in this part. O ring 3 will be under a bit of squeezing pressure of brass part and still there should be required movement in piston.
Bhaur
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Mubhaur so if I file off the needed material to get the .03-.04mm movement I will no longer need the no.3 oring ? Mine is a HM1000X...so why is there a no.3 oring needed instead of doing this from the factory? Or does the no.3 oring give a tolerance of .03-.04 from the factory. I'm kinda afraid to take off the material...If I can't understand why or why it isn't done from the start by the factory. Thanks for some more explaining..
Your question that "why it is not done by the factory" is good but you can see that there are always a lot of modifications that are after market. If I refer you to FX Impact, you can see that how a lot of people helped Impact to become such a success with their thought out modifications.
Now why FX factory did not do all that?
I understand that there is never any end to improvements.
I am think of making a Youtube channel specially for RAW as I feel that there is not much information on Youtube for RAW.
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EXACTLY. I can't find any videos showing reg. work or even how to replace all the O rings in the rebuild key they give you when you buy a RAW.
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I've had several other air guns apart so diving right in doesn't bother me to much but had to ask questions how to get the valve out and stuff because it is some what different design and my other guns were about a third the price of the raw and parts were alot easier to find also for them
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I got the o ring kit from rapid air. I unscrewed the brass disc with two holes , under it there is a spring & a small piece that sits on the inner valve. Like to know how to properly disassemble the regulator. I bought the rifle used & it started leaking. Not much info to be found . Appreciate any light you can shed.
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Bucketboy, yes it is it had no o ring on it when it took it apart. And there was/ is a spring under it. How does it go back together. ive got tools, I was. Machinist. Thanks for reaching out. I can take some pics & try to send em.
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I have never seen one with a spring
Basically, remove the reg core by undoing the brass locking collar and gently pulling it apart, if you haven’t undone the lock nut and belville washer stack then don’t as you will need to reset the reg pressure.
Clean out the reg body and screw in the brass push pin disc with a new washer behind, tighten until you can feel the o ring being compressed.
Remove the o rings from the reg core and give it a clean, (I use a piece of string to lightly polish the o ring grooves)
Replace both the reg core o rings (if you have access to a lathe, make something like this as it makes fitting the lager o ring so much easier)
Inspect the sealing plug in the tip of the reg core for any damage as this will cause reg creep.
Lightly lube the o rings and put the core inside the body and do up the bass locking collar. The core should be able to move backwards and forwards and give about 0.5mm of endfloat. if it doesn’t move at all then the brass collar needs backing off slightly. If there is excessive movement it’s best to make a brass shim washer or machine a little off the collar to reduce the endfloat. The reg will work with excessive endfloat but it will be more sensitive to adjustment and pressure fluctuations due to changes in fill pressure.
Assembly the belville washers in this orientation. ))(())(())((|nut.
You will need to test the reg pressure with either a reg tester or by removing the blanking plug in the bottom of the block and fitting a gauge. I would start at 140bar.
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Ps, your reg may not have bs109 and depending on how old the gun is bs015 may be different
Good luck
Bb
Good luck
Bb
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