Huben pistol.

[Airgun-hobbyist]

Has anyone shared their experiences with tuning? Different fill pressures combined with different power level settings, for example. Without a hammer, I found myself wondering if the concept of the power curve even applies…( i mean looking for the sweet spot to avoid a descending shot string)

Thank you

With each ammo weight there seems to be a bit of a sweet spot in tuneability to flatten the shot string around the FPS/PFE that you are striving for, (except for at the max power level, then it is a cliff shot string in the beginning and then levels off, then declines because of the air usage per shot). Granted, being unregulated there's a bit of high speeds in the beginning and lower at the end, but with this valving system the tune seems to be able to be established virtually (but reasonably) anywhere that you want the performance to be at.

For example, I've noticed the shot string can be flattened out pretty evenly at a one magazine moderately high PFE tune, or have it pretty even and flat string with a two or three magazine tune. It's all in the fine tuning of the adjuster for the desired magazine count and PFE desired. I fill off a tank, so the gun may be at 275 bar or down at 225 bar to start the shot string, but no matter the fill it is still pretty decent.

 

[DonEnzone]

Anyone know how to get the valve assembly back in after degassing? I can't seem to get all the parts past the seer for some reason.. I can get the valve itself all the way in, but the striker that sits behind it is impossible to get all the way in past the seer.

 

[scottblair]

First attempt at making anything out of metal. Please don't judge too harshly. The 3d printed one I bought was impossible to remove without pliers so I watched a YouTube video and immediately became a machinist. The 3d printed one was also too short and didn't reach to the other side. This was a practice run. I think on the next one I'll use brass and put the first o ring closer to the end.

View attachment 428356View attachment 428367

Very nice work!
Well, I too didn't care for the look of the printed version. I made my own using an 8/32 hex head bolt about 1-1/4" long, with RC fuel tubing over it. Turning the head diameter down so the decorative plastic cap can be pressed on. (The caps are designed to press onto 6/32 hex heads).
I use these caps sometimes as canopy mounts for my RC helicopters.
Anyway, then since I liked the looks, and how secure it fit, yet easy to remove, I figured I'd make two, one for each side, using two shorter hex bolts.
Here's a couple pics. Either one can be removed to fill. This method completely covers the hole on both sides,,,dust free! Cost about .30¢ ea.
I'm always moding my stuff to make it look more attractive to MY eye, and sometimes even more functional.. Great hobby,
Have fun!

 

[sb327]

Anyone know how to get the valve assembly back in after degassing? I can't seem to get all the parts past the seer for some reason.. I can get the valve itself all the way in, but the striker that sits behind it is impossible to get all the way in past the seer.

If you hold pressure on the ‘striker’ then pull the trigger, see if that helps.

Dave

 

[DonEnzone]

I've seen fantastic shot strings posted lately.

I will try in a moment. Why is the seer such a problem to begin with? I don't remember this being an issue the first time I took them out...

 

[DonEnzone]

Nope.. it doesn't work. The seer doesn't even move an inch when I pull the trigger.
I guess my GK1 is pretty ruined right now

 

[Pale_Rider]

Nope.. it doesn't work. The seer doesn't even move an inch when I pull the trigger.
I guess my GK1 is pretty ruined right now

Are you pushing the striker in while simultaneously pulling the trigger?

 

[DonEnzone]

Yes. Like I said, the seer does not move when I pull the trigger. Like, at all.

 

[Pale_Rider]

Try this

 

[krazcool]

Nope.. it doesn't work. The seer doesn't even move an inch when I pull the trigger.
I guess my GK1 is pretty ruined right now

Safety off, trigger held back in “fire” mode and hold it there while pushing dead center in the cavity area where the spring goes. It’s just in a bind or likely the striker is ever so slightly canted to one side. If you are in the center and the trigger is being held back it should not require a lot of force to reset back center atop the sear.

 

[krazcool]

 

[DonEnzone]

Thanks for the help. But I can't manage to fix it. The seer is just permanently pointing up, blocking the striker from going in. I can push the seer down, but the spring pushes it back up again.

 

[DonEnzone]

It seems the tip of the striker gets blocked by this part of the seer when I try to push it back in. I tried with quite some force. But no luck.

 

[MrP]

it seems that slugs that slide forward a bit before catching in the taper of the chambers only cause an issue when loading the gun. in that situation it’s best to keep it level or tilted muzzle-up because of it is tilted downwards the slugs slide into the barrel a bit and then stick when you try to rotate to load the next slug.

I did the obvious and put a loose fitting slug in one chamber and rotated the magazine through all different positions at different angles to see when it catches. The only place is if you try to rotate one after moving it into alignment with the barrel and the gun pointed down before firing it. unless I’m missing something it shouldn’t be a problem as far as jamming goes.

I would like to be able to shoot those mp mold round nose - when I do cast some I will do it as cool as I can so there is minimal shrinkage. Maybe this is a time to look into powder coating so I can snug up things that I cast as well.

 

[Nomadic Pirate 66]

it seems that slugs that slide forward a bit before catching in the taper of the chambers only cause an issue when loading the gun. in that situation it’s best to keep it level or tilted muzzle-up because of it is tilted downwards the slugs slide into the barrel a bit and then stick when you try to rotate to load the next slug.

I did the obvious and put a loose fitting slug in one chamber and rotated the magazine through all different positions at different angles to see when it catches. The only place is if you try to rotate one after moving it into alignment with the barrel and the gun pointed down before firing it. unless I’m missing something it shouldn’t be a problem as far as jamming goes.

I would like to be able to shoot those mp mold round nose - when I do cast some I will do it as cool as I can so there is minimal shrinkage. Maybe this is a time to look into powder coating so I can snug up things that I cast as well.

That is what I was thinking as well, it can only jam when rotating the magazine because the round falls into the breech a bit, however once you start shooting there's no way you can get jams......unless the pellet/slug is so pointed that passes the front stop,.....please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[MrP]

I’m assuming you’ve watched the breakdown video that Gregor posted?

 

[Airtillery]

Here's a short video with the Ryu being used:

Seems like the Ryu definitely tames the db's around 7ish db's. Has anyone elses ldc testing experience a bigger drop than that and if so what was used?

I really like the V3 mag lever that unlatches the mag from top to down, and that it's tucked in between the gauge and mag, vs the initial versions. Less chance of snagging the lever on something and obviously better facilitates left handed shooting.

 

[Airtillery]

Manny, how the heck are you getting the plunger down on those hand pumps above 300 bar? I know I weigh about 20 more pounds than you, and even with an extra 30 pounds in a backpack, dropping my weight fully… it just doesn’t budge. I have two different pumps that are working one is definitely a bit easier than the other. I wonder if there is a cheap one out there that maybe has a smaller swept volume or something and is a little easier at higher pressures? Don’t want to spend $200+ on a huben hand pump… by the time that sucker is shipped we’re halfway to getting a GX cs4

I don't know but you can ask Billy he was there when I was filling and I found with both the kind pumps I have it was pretty easy and fast to fill to 350 BAR,....Maybe I should make a Video?

@MrP: I can attest to Manny filling the GK1 without much effort and seemed like it only took a couple minutes at best! I believe the pumps he has was also bought on amazon at a very reasonable price.

 

[krazcool]

It seems the tip of the striker gets blocked by this part of the seer when I try to push it back in. I tried with quite some force. But no luck.

View attachment 428627

Right, so when you hold the trigger in “fire” the area you marked in red “block” is allowed to drop lower which then allows the forward rim of the striker to pass over it.

 

[Nomadic Pirate 66]

I’m assuming you’ve watched the breakdown video that Gregor posted?

No never watched any videos of this pistol.