I'm using 17 ci First Strike bottle on my second Notos. I like this bottle and reg combo, shortest regulator and bottle diameter is 2" only. I did have to change the reg springs to disk type to get the pressure up to 2200 psi. getting close to 940 f/s on crosman 7.9 gr out of 16" .177 cal barrel.
I did adjust the reg bout 1/8 turn CW on the reg. couple more adjustments CW down to 490+. now working CCW back up to 675fps hopefully
Make sure everything is clean first as they come from the machine shop, machined, and sand blasted. So there can be sand and aluminum burrs floating around. I think mine had o-rings and a gauge. Make sure gauge is sealed up against oring otherwise it will leak. You will most likely need to notch the bottom of the moderator a bit so it does not rest against the tube. Or just leave the cap off.
Thanks - no o-rings in mine unless that thick white plastic circle is supposed to be it... Guess I need to order some parts which would be disappointing if correct ...
It shoulders fast and easy and can drive tacks at 30 yards - crazy for the money and weight!
I must agree. It’s just about the handiest little thing out there. Looking forward to seeing what emerges as aftermarket upgrades in the near future for it.
Appreciate that info. If I understand correctly, that will still leave those 2 screws blocked.
I have 3 first strike bottles 15 and 2 13ci . would have bought a 17 but it would have looked funny on either one of my bottled shooters.
Take a look at the new block I believe there are 4 actually maybe 5 holes for bolts I am not at home right now, but from memory 2 in front one from the grip (actually have to remove the rear for the grip too) then 2 more under on the backside once you remove the grip.
That block holds the poppet valve spring. There are 4 allen screws holding it. First you have to remove the barrel and shroud as a unit. Top rail has a screw you remove this first, then under it is another set screw for the barrel retainer. It is a 1.5mm allen and has a thread locker, you may need to heat it if too tight. After this you can slide the barrel and shroud forward. Then you have to remove the trigger and grip assembly, one screw in front of trigger guard and on the beaver tail. Then you will see the two allen screws facing forward. After removing all 4 screws, you can slide the block out. While you have it out you can drill the air way bigger to 5mm if reusing this block. It will reduce the pressure deferential between plenum and valve during firing moment resulting in speed gain. Note be careful when reassembling trigger assembly. It's easy to kink the sear lever spring if not properly aligned.
Appreciate those detailed instructions. The plan is to use the PP750 Gauge Block with Picatinny Rail from airgunarcheryfun. I'll need to allot more for this replacement as it seems more involved than first thought.
